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Old 05-01-2006, 03:53 PM   #31
Severian
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Quote:
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Thanks!

I think I'm going to go with the magnaflow. I don't see how I can beat $73 with free shipping.
And an update, the damn thing doesn't even fit. So don't try it.
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Old 05-01-2006, 04:14 PM   #32
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Does it not fit because of the bend or some other reason?
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Old 05-02-2006, 03:31 PM   #33
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Does it not fit because of the bend or some other reason?
Yep that's correct, Alaska. The cat I received was straight-through. The Z3 cat has an offset pipe. The dealer quoted the independent shop $1,800 for a new cat, but I found the following two things to give to him instead:

* $342.72 OEM cat converter Part #: BMW1442
* Catalytic Converter installation kit from Bavauto.com for $39.90 shipped

I decided to go OE because I just want my car to run well and I don't want to hit any more walls.
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Old 05-02-2006, 06:04 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Severian
Hey guys, I was wondering if I could ask for your advice. My wife and I are starting to shop around the indianapolis area for another BMW. I found this Z3 listed at cars.com. Many of you are more experienced buyers than I am, and I'd appreciate your ideas about what we should keep in mind when buying our second BMW. For example:

* Do Z3's suck for some reason?
* Should I be freaked out that this post says, "Engine was rebuilt by factory service at 55,000 miles."
* Should we shop Ebay instead? (I've never purchased a single thing from ebay)

Thanks in advance guys,

brad

I wouldnt do ebay, i dont think most sellers are legit in what they offer (no offense Angel), and plus, i would never purchase a car i couldnt drive first.
but good luck, i like Z3's alot, i dont think theres any problems with them. I think its a very comfortable ride.

Good luck!
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Old 05-02-2006, 06:08 PM   #35
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Thanks for your feedback and thanks for the wellwishes!
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Old 08-29-2011, 12:25 PM   #36
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The shift knob? If it is the stock knob, you just have to pull REALLY hard. It could have been rattling and they tried to glue it on. I know people who have given themselves facial bruises removing BMW shift knobs. You have to pull VERY hard.

You are in Indy, right?
I changed mine four weeks ago or so, I punched myself so hard in the nose it actually bled. And there were witnesses. FML.
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Old 08-30-2011, 03:13 AM   #37
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I have a Z3 and a ti. The rattle is most likely a loose emergency brake cable...mine was. It can be tightened from the front seat. The seat that slides back and forth an inch or so is caused by worn out bushings. Seats have to be taken out to fix it, but it is a do it yourself job if you are handy at all. Plenty of how to instructions on the internet. Buy delrin bushings instead of oem, or you'll have the problem again pretty soon. Z3's are dependable cars if you keep them maintained. Think about replacing the water pump and thermostat as a preventative measure, and when you replace the thermostat go back in with a metal housing, not the oem plastic one. Same with the water pump. Make sure the replacement has a metal, not plastic impeller. Use only BMW antifreeze and replace it every two years. If you don't know whether or not the trans and diff fluids have been change, then change them now. Also change the power fluid and replace the reservoir when contains a built in filter. To summarize: first priority would be to change all fluids and filters, then refresh the cooling system with a new thermostat and water pump. Worry about the seat later. Enjoy your Z3. John PS: Never let the car overheat. At the first hint of overheating, switch the key off and pull off the road. The temp guage does not, I repeat, does not light up when it goes into the red. Best peace of mind investment I ever made was to install an "Engine Watch Dog" by Australian Signals on both the Ti and the Z, a real time adjustable, digital temperature gauge and warning system. Easy to find and purchase on the internet.

Last edited by jca; 08-30-2011 at 03:24 AM.
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Old 08-30-2011, 03:51 AM   #38
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I have a z3 and a ti as well. Here's what I would do to the Z3 in priority order:

Change out thermostat, thermostat housing and water pump. Go back in with a metal thermostat housing and a water pump that has a metal impeller.

Change out antifreeze at the same time using only BMW oem antifreeze; replace thereafter every two years.

Change out every fluid and filter that the car uses.

Only after you do the above, address the issues that you have listed. The rattle is probably a loose parking break cable; you can adjust it at the lever from the front seat. The shifting seat is worn out bushings. You can replace these yourself using instructions you can find easily on the internet. Seats have to be removed of course. Cars mileage is a little low to have a lot of worn out front in parts unless the car has been tracked. Have an alignment specialist look at the front in and offer an opinion. Probably just needs an alignment or new tires. At the first sign of engine overheating switch the key off, pull over, and find out what the problem is. Let me emphasize: on both the ti and the Z3 the heat guage does not light up when it goes into the red zone. Consider investing in an,
"Engine Watchdog" by Australian Signals, a digital, adjustable, temperature gauge, with both a light and a buzzer alarm. Enjoy your new Z3. They're great cars. John
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