need help fast!!! car wont shut off

[robcarync]

my car does the chiming thing too...when the key isnt in....not sure what causes it other than like the ignition switch sticking to make the car think its still on or something

anyone know what needs to be replaced

[Platanos]

Originally Posted by robcarync

my car does the chiming thing too...when the key isnt in....not sure what causes it other than like the ignition switch sticking to make the car think its still on or something

anyone know what needs to be replaced

Rob, do you know if your ignition switch has ever been messed with?
I think your right...."not sure what causes it other than like the ignition switch sticking to make the car think its still on or something"....When I couldn't get my key barrel in I noticed the ignition switch wasn't lined up to accept the key barrel. I had to change the position of the switch so it would accept the barrel. And now my door chimes without the key....The switch must be in a position where it thinks the key is in the barrel. I don't know if I should just leave it like that. I guess the right thing to do is fix it. I gotta mess with the airbag also to see if my light will go out.

[BillKirk]

Sorry to be coming in so late on this message thread, I've only recently discovered this forum so wasn't registered when the problem began. For the benefit of others who may encounter this problem here's my two-cents worth:

I've had the problem with the key being removed from the ignition prior to reaching the full off position. I was really dumbfounded when it first happened, but with a manual car I had no problem stopping the engine. I put it in first gear and dropped the clutch while applying the brakes.

The problem has reoccurred about a dozen times over the past year so I'm very adept at fixing it quickly - usually under two minutes. I leave a narrow blade screwdriver and pliers in the car at all times now, for that purpose.

Referring to the RealOEM diagram from earlier posts to this thread, find and loosen the two small setscrews that hold the orange plastic switch (3) into the metal interlock assembly (2). These screws are underneath and recessed so you'll probably have to stand on your head and look up from under the steering column to find them the first time.

Once loose, slide the orange switch assembly (3) out. You can then insert the tip of your key into the middle and rotate the inner piece anti-clockwise into the off position. It's only a small movement and it'll click into the off poisition. This turns the ignition off. You can also turn the engine back on this way, but DON'T DRIVE LIKE THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE THE KEY IN THE MAIN LOCK AND ARE CERTAIN THE STEERING LOCK ISN'T LOCKED.

Looking at the location that the orange switch seats into, you'll see a small metal piece in the middle that slots into the orange piece when it's all together. Grab that with the pliers and give it a little twist. It should snap back into the off position. This is the heart of the problem, it gets stuck and needs a little help to return to the off position.

Now just put the orange switch back into the assembly, tighten the two small set screws and you're back in business. The ignition switch and steering lock should all work as normal again - until you again quickly turn the key off and pull the key out too soon and it gets stuck once again.

Apparently this is a common problem with BMW ignition switches as they wear over time. As you have discovered, the repair with replacement parts is difficult. I've chosen to keep a thin screwdriver and pliers in the door pocket rather than take the whole steering column apart to fix it properly.

If you make it a habit to very deliberately turn the key into the off position before starting to remove the key, you may never have this problem. Most of us do this quickly in one motion and eventually find ourselves listening to the engine running whilst half-way out the door with the key in hand.

I hope this helps...

Bill in Sydney Australia
1995 316i Compact
1989 525iA

[angel318ti]

If that ever happens again cut of the fuel supply. bend a hose or disconnect your mass airflow sensor sometimes that shuts them off.

[bimbim]

ok late on the post, but I bought a factory key cylindar with no housing, I was wondering if I needed the housing too. Is the tab that wears out on the cylindar or the housing? or both? I'm thinking it may be the housing, so I need a junkyard one.

[bimbim]

bump

[jordanmc]

Thank you all so much for your help.
I just recently picked up a 95 and had this happen to me around midnight with work in the morning.

its 5speed manual so I stalled it and then disconnected the battery right away
popping out the orange thing and taking the pliers to it worked like a dream!! tiny screwdriver and pliers will now be kept with my emergency camping gear (mummy-bag, hatchet, tinder, and tapes: Hammer-2 Legit 2 Quit, Curtis Mayfield-Curtis)

It is how I came across this forum in the first place.
Thank you all for the diagrams, pics, and insight!
The push button starter will be going in soon!

BOTTOM LINE

If you make it a habit to very deliberately turn the key into the off position before starting to remove the key, you may never have this problem.

[watdawg]

Originally Posted by BillKirk

Sorry to be coming in so late on this message thread, I've only recently discovered this forum so wasn't registered when the problem began. For the benefit of others who may encounter this problem here's my two-cents worth:

I've had the problem with the key being removed from the ignition prior to reaching the full off position. I was really dumbfounded when it first happened, but with a manual car I had no problem stopping the engine. I put it in first gear and dropped the clutch while applying the brakes.

Bill in Sydney Australia
1995 316i Compact
1989 525iA

Thank YOU so Much!!! This saved me $$$ just by following your post. Thank you thank you!

[cslayman]

Bill,
Thanks! This is exactly what happened to me. The ignition key jammed in the ACCESSORY position, but the key could be removed. I removed the orange ignition switch and fiddled with the pin. It popped back into the tumbler housing and the key/tumbler assembly worked fine.
For those who have this problem with an automatic transmission (like mine) and the key jams in the ON position, the best way to stop the motor (since you can't pop the clutch) would be to unscrew and remove the air intake boot from the airflow meter. (I'm always leary of disconnecting any electrical component with the engine running for fear of creating a power surge). Once the engine is stopped, then one of the battery terminals can be removed.

Cheers,
Charlie
'95 318ti automatic

[trackfiend]

BillKirk thank you sir! Your suggestions worked perfectly!

[jordanboy09]

wow im mad i just saw this thread i really needed it back then but i just brought a new igniton so it dnt matter anymore but still this is good help... thanks

[nightrider318]

Hi all. I was experiencing the same problem. I've replaced the cylinder and the housing but it still won't crank. The cylinder now moves freely and it turns on all accessories but will not crank the engine. The shop guys thought it might have been the after market alarm so I towed it to Al & Ed's where I got it installed. Everything is fine with the alarm and they've now bypassed it from the ignition. I just had the starter replaced 6 months ago so I really don't think that's it. Any other thoughts? Could it be this EWS part? I had the new cylinder cut to my old key so I wouldn't think so, and like others have said the dealership never mentioned anything about it.

Any help or experience is much appreciated.

History:

The cylinder was stuck in the "on" position and wouldn't move in either direction. Had to pop the clutch and stall it to turn it off then disconnected the battery so it wouldn't die. It sat like that for 4 weeks while I waited for the new cylinder from Germany (it happened right before Christmas & New Year's. holidays slowed everything down) I tried and tried with the paper clip trick with no luck. Finally gave up and sent it to the shop I use. They couldn't get it out either so they had to replace the housing as well. They get it all installed and the thing still won't start.

[cslayman]

Nightrider,

I don't have a manual transmission. Is there an start interlock on manual transmission cars (ie do you have to push the clutch in to start)? If yes, you might want to check that it is working properly.

When you say you replaced the cylinder and housing, do you mean the cylinder and orange ignition switch that has the electrical cable that plugs into the harness?

If you can put your old key in the new switch and turn the new switch, I think that means that the EWS is reading the code from the key and accepting it. So the only thing I can think of is:

1) there is an interlock preventing power to the starter
2) the ignition switch harness is not completely plugged in (the pins for ACC and RUN positions are OK but the START pin isn't making contact in the new connector)
or
3) check your fuse box and relays to see if they are in working order (sorry I can't be more specific on which fuse or relay, since I don't have access to my Bentleys Manual right now).

Good Luck!
Charlie