» Site Navigation | | » Recent Threads | | | | | | | 08-12-2009, 06:08 AM | #1 | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Central NJ Posts: 2,440 | Alternator failing? I was driving home tonight and whenever I put the brakes on, my wired V1 radar detector turned off then on instantly. When I switched from high beams to fog lights (turned highs off), same happened. At one point, all the dash lights turned on (like I just started the ignition). This, coupled with some misfiring I had earlier, sound to me like an alternator failure starting. What do you guys think? Luckily, I have a spare alternator... but it's a pain to replace . Also, got a Racing Dynamics strut bar (for e36) and it hits the throttle so I can only go 1/2 throttle now. Will take off tomorrow. My body shop guy told me to get one because I have cracking and rust starting on my driver's shock tower. | | | 08-12-2009, 06:24 AM | #2 | NOBODY F's with the Jesus Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ventura California Posts: 7,824 | Hey Patrick, I know it's a lot of work, but if you want a driver's strut tower, I'd be more than happy to cut the one off of my m3 donor for you. As for the alternator problem, well since you already have a spare, I'd say swap it out and see if it fixes things. | | | 08-12-2009, 03:55 PM | #3 | Senior Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: LA, Bellflower, CA Posts: 3,613 | damn. must take care of that rusted tower asap before it gets worse and makes a bigger mess later down the road that'll cost you $$$$$$$$$. so glad i live in SoCal where i don't have to worry about rust too much here. (knock on wood) __________________ -Theta Chi- Float like a cadilac, sting like a BIMMER .... my socket is just too thick and won't fit in the hole! damnit! Marv's 332ti is in the werks. Stay tuned ya'll ... Check list: S52 swap, manual transmission swap, 3.25 LSD with M Coupe diff cover, SuperSprint muffler, M3 style mirrors, AFE intake, ASC delete, M50 Manifold swap, UUC strut bar, ZHP lighted knob, Vaders, M-tech interior, OEM armrest, AC Schintzer front lip, AC Schnitzer rear spoiler, Roof spoiler, 18'' rims, M3 front drilled brakes, LED interior lights, 3 spoke Euro style steering wheel, OEM roof spoiler and bike holder, Thule fairing, Euro tail lights, oil pressure guage, carbon fiber hood painted to original paint (still showing CF weaving), what's next to do...? | | | 08-12-2009, 04:27 PM | #4 | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Central NJ Posts: 2,440 | Thanks for the offer Jess. It's getting repaired after this sunday's Autocross. | | | 08-12-2009, 05:13 PM | #5 | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Raleigh/Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,233 | after an autox......? wouldn't it make more sense to skip it.... __________________ -Jeff | | | 08-12-2009, 05:36 PM | #6 | Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 1,895 | __________________ ... ʎɐqǝ uo pɹɐoqʎǝʞ ɐ ʎnq ı ǝɯıʇ ʇsɐן ǝɥʇ sı sıɥʇ | | | 08-12-2009, 07:52 PM | #7 | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Central NJ Posts: 2,440 | After AutoX because its this weekend (I must do it!!) and I have it scheduled for body work on Monday. I was told the cracking won't continue till salt is on the roads anyhow. It's due to corrosion + bending of the driver's shock tower. Going to get another brace (dad will take this one for his M Roadster) soon. | | | 08-13-2009, 02:34 AM | #8 | Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: asdfasdf Posts: 10,002 | that's very similar to what happened to me, replaced the alternator and it was back to normal iirc the RD strut brace is hinged, right? you could just take the center piece out and leave the ends on to reinforce the shock mount | | | 08-13-2009, 02:45 AM | #9 | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Raleigh/Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,233 | Quote: Originally Posted by tiFreak that's very similar to what happened to me, replaced the alternator and it was back to normal iirc the RD strut brace is hinged, right? you could just take the center piece out and leave the ends on to reinforce the shock mount | Those will not do much/anything. Connecting the towers will stop some flex in the body, not sure how much it will help his issue but its better than nothing. __________________ -Jeff | | | 08-13-2009, 03:39 AM | #10 | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Central NJ Posts: 2,440 | No, it's not the part of the mount that are bolted onto. The part that's rusted is the welds to the body. I know it won't do much to help the handling but the body guy said he's seen tons of cars with bad towers get helped with a bar. It's going to transfer some load to the opposite tower so it does not flex quite as much. It does have a hinge, and I know everyone says hinged bars don't do anything, but I torqued the hinge to 100 ft-lbs and I can guarantee it is going to do something. The hinge is held together by a 3/8ths in. bolt which is torqued a LOT. With it off the car, I couldn't move the bar vs the tower mount at all... and I tried a lot. Anyway, I intend to replace it with another bar that has more clearance around the throttle body/cables. It's such a close fit too... damn DASC! I thought I could fit an E36 bar on . | | | 08-13-2009, 03:41 AM | #11 | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Central NJ Posts: 2,440 | Oh and I tested the alt/battery today and I was getting 14v when the car is on and 12.1 v with it off. That's what I expected. The problem isn't all the time-- it seems to be very erratic. My battery should still have at least 30 months on the warranty left so maybe I can get it replaced for free. 12v seems a little low. | | | 08-13-2009, 03:42 AM | #12 | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Raleigh/Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,233 | The voltage test doesn't say the alternator is working, I don't understand why people say to do it. Voltage is only half the battle, its the current your alternator is putting out that is the most important. 10 amps at 14V won't help you jack __________________ -Jeff | | | 08-13-2009, 03:46 AM | #13 | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Central NJ Posts: 2,440 | Well it shows it isn't completely busted. Plus, it can tell you if you need new brushes or if the diode system is broken. | | | 08-13-2009, 01:24 PM | #14 | Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Gulfport, Florida Posts: 3,208 | Pat you might already know this but charge the battery over night then take voltage reading. If it is below 12.6 volts battery is bad....This is a basic check and does not do a load test. After you have a good battery in there then start the car and turn everything on (lights a/c radio, etc) check voltage you might need to rev the motor but you should be able to get into the high 13's to low 14's on volts Last edited by xxxJohnBoyxxx; 08-13-2009 at 01:29 PM. | | | 08-13-2009, 02:11 PM | #15 | Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: College Park, MD Posts: 152 | Just tell Jess to replace your alt. it will only take him 15 minutes. | | | | | Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | | Posting Rules | You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is Off | | | Similar Threads | Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post | File uploads failing | roadrash | Site Feedback | 3 | 05-27-2008 02:51 PM | Alternator | chuckrussell | Engine | 6 | 11-19-2007 04:44 PM | WTB: Alternator | RedShft | US and North America | 4 | 11-19-2007 04:02 PM | alternator | M3_KILL3R | Engine | 2 | 08-02-2007 12:20 AM | WTB... 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