Clutch Diagnosis..

[iking3i]

ive read and done my study on what i need to get worked on.. Obviously im at 139K miles and need to replace my clutch. When the clutch is pushed all the way down and engaged, it makes that imfamous swirling noise which i read is caused by the throw out bearing.. it does like to skip alot before it grabs at certain speeds. So where is the best place to to get a whole replacement??

[cooljess76]

I got my clutch from Clutch Masters, but honestly you should probably shop around. Try to get an OEM Sachs or LuK clutch kit. Make sure it comes with a pilot bearing, throwout bearing(release bearing), pressure plate, clutch disc(friction disc) and alignment tool. Pelicanparts, getBMWparts, import replacement parts, auto hauz are all good places to purchase from, but if you could find a good deal on a Sachs or LuK clutch on ebay, go for it. As long as it's an OEM name brand, you'll be ok.

[mohaughn]

You should also have some kind of plan of what you are going to do in case you have a flywheel issue.

If you've been driving the car with it "skipping" for a while, there could be issues with the flywheel. When the car is hot, like sitting in traffic for a while, does it buck in first gear sometimes?

Some shops can resurface a dual mass flywheel, a lot of them can't. The aftermarket performance ones are usually cheaper than an OEM flywheel.

[iking3i]

Yea when i am at a full stop, and i go into first gear it like jumps.. does that mean badd fly wheel??

[zoner]

Originally Posted by iking3i

ive read and done my study on what i need to get worked on.. Obviously im at 139K miles and need to replace my clutch. When the clutch is pushed all the way down and engaged, it makes that imfamous swirling noise which i read is caused by the throw out bearing.. it does like to skip alot before it grabs at certain speeds. So where is the best place to to get a whole replacement??

Aww, you get the 'swirly' noise? I'm getting the 'rattling marbles' noise myself... I'm trying to find the time to get it fixed before it leaves me high and dry somewhere and/or the clutch grenades and causes more damage.

I'm with Jess on Luk and Sachs clutches- I've used both in previous cars and both are good quality clutches if you're running a stock or mild setup and not roasting tires at every stoplight.

[iking3i]

exactly, i found some sacks for about 230..is that a descent price? How much and where can i get one.. i want to make sure the Kit includes everything i will need.. its a 98 m44

[iking3i]

is this any good???


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F1-ST...Q5fAccessories

[cooljess76]

Originally Posted by iking3i

is this any good???


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F1-ST...Q5fAccessories

I would stick with Sachs or LuK. I just don't trust the quality of some no name "high performance" ebay clutch. Make no mistake, it's a big job replacing a clutch. I've done more than a few and it has gotten easier for me, but I like knowing that it's the last time I'll be replacing a clutch on that particular car. I'd be pretty pissed if I had to pull the tranny off 40k miles down the road because I used cheap parts. You gotta keep in mind that that thing spins at 5k rpms. If those pressure plate bolts fail or if the pressure plate flies apart, it's going to destroy your transmission and possibly come through the floorboard and seriously injure you or your passengers. I see the "puck" style racing clutches and stuff and I turn the other way. There's no way they'll last as long as an OEM clutch and you're just asking for problems later down the road.

[iking3i]

jess thanks very much.. i found a luks for 155 plus 20 shipped.. My buddy is a mechanic and hes really handy with all the work.. he just started his own shop litterally 2 weeks ago and things are starting off pretty good actually.. i wanna get my car in there asap before he gets too busy and have to hire someone else.. his hardware isnt fully stocked yet as he is justt finishing purchasing all tools.. i just want to make sure that when i order it, i dont forget somehting becuase it doesnt come with it ya know??

[Jean H.318TI]

u can buy the bavauto.com clutch kit comes with everything that u need even gaskets is the whole whole kit is really good deal

[zoner]

Yeah, I saw that Luk for $155 from that guy too... I think I'm going to pick one up.

I've done a number of clutches in my time (trucks, musclecars, volkswagens, etc.) but I've never done a BMW. If it's anything like working on Saabs or Volvos, I'm sure it will be plenty of fun... * sarcasm *

Anyone know a good BMW shop in the LA/Long Beach area that does good work? I have a hard time trusting my vehicles to anyone, especially when more often than not, I feel I can do a better job but I'm at the point where I'd rather pay someone than spend a day or weekend under the car.

My favorite shop experience came when I took my Dodge truck into HB Dodge for some service. They also rotated my tires and when I picked it up, I made it about 100 yards down Beach Blvd. before the rear wheel fell off in rush hour traffic.

[pdxmotorhead]

You should be aware that the Dual Mass Flywheel cannot be machined, and changing a clutch wihtout a new flywheel surface is likely a waste of money.

So a lightweight flywheel (Steel) and a sprung center disk are cheaper but can rattle.

Dave

[marleymon]

so you can't do this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RY_r01cR114


...to a dual mass correct?

what do you guys think of pelican's super kit?

Three piece Sachs clutch kit
New Pressure plate bolts
New flywheel bolts
New crankshaft rear seal (aka flywheel seal)
New Transmission Main Shaft seal
New selector rod seal
New exhaust gaskets
New pilot bearing
New release bearing spring clip
New clutch pivot pin
New slave cylinder
New slave cylinder hose
$340 shipped

[zoner]

Originally Posted by pdxmotorhead

You should be aware that the Dual Mass Flywheel cannot be machined, and changing a clutch wihtout a new flywheel surface is likely a waste of money.

So a lightweight flywheel (Steel) and a sprung center disk are cheaper but can rattle.

Dave

A competent machine shop can machine anything.

The problem is that there are not a whole lot of competent machine shops out there. One thing to remember is that a flywheel, just like brake rotors and drums, is a wear item. The difference between a solid flywheel and a DMF is that on the DMF, the surface is only one part of the equation- the rotational movement must also be within spec., as well as the lateral movement. You're not going to get the same life out of any machined flywheel as you will a new flywheel. Combine this with the extremely small margin for error in machining a DMF and wear considerations other than the surface, and it usually just makes more sense in the long run to replace the flywheel.

And yes, changing the clutch w/o addressing the flywheel IS a waste of money. (unless, of course, one enjoys changing clutches prematurely).

[cooljess76]

The DMF is so beefy, I highly doubt that it would be damaged, warped or anything like that. You guys are just trying to scare the OP into spending more money than he needs to. Like I've said, I've done more than a few and the only work I've ever done to a stock flywheel is scuff the surface up. All you need to do this job is a pressure plate & clutch disc, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, alignment tool, new pressure plate bolts, some loctite, a torque wrench, a couple really long extensions, perhaps a swivel, an inverse torx socket set, an impact wrench helps but a breaker bar on the end of a ratchet will suffice. The flywheel doesn't even need to come off of the motor. You can scuff the surface with anything abrasive, a cylinder honing brush on a drill works well. If you take it to a shop, they'll tell you the same thing unless they think you're dumb and are trying to get money out of you. I love it when these threads pop up and then all of a sudden everyone and their mother turns into a machinist or engineer. It's not rocket science, it's a clutch job.