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Engine Mount Replacement DIY.  PICS!
Engine Mount Replacement DIY. PICS!
Published by CirrusSR22
09-30-2008
Default Engine Mount Replacement DIY. PICS!

Engine Mount Replacement DIY


PARTS:
------------
Two engine Mounts. Part#11811141377 $44.95 each at AutohausAZ.com. Free Shipping. $89.90 total.


TOOLS:
--------------
• Ratchet
• ≥20” worth of extensions
• Universal joint
• 16mm socket (mine was a deep, but a standard should work)
• 13mm (?) socket for the transmission crossmember and x-brace bolts.
• Flathead screwdriver
• Hydraulic Floor jack
• Jack stands or Ramps
• Wheel chocks

PROCEDURE:
----------------------

• Safely raise and support front of vehicle with rear wheels chocked, parking brake firmly set, and car in park or in gear.

• Remove the factory x-brace if installed. Four bolts.


• Loosen the four transmission crossmember bolts. Loosen as much as possible, but don’t remove as the weight of the transmission needs to rest on the bolts. This will allow the engine/transmission assembly to move with less strain on the transmission mounts.
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  #1  
By CirrusSR22 on 09-30-2008, 05:32 AM
Default

• Loosen top engine mount nuts with extensions. This was much easier than I thought it would be, but I needed to use a longer ratchet than the one pictured to break loose the nuts. Remove the driver’s side nut and washer, but leave the passenger side nut loosely on the threads

Socket Set-up


Driver’s Side Pic #1


Driver’s Side Pic #2


Passenger’s Side Pic #1


Passenger’s Side Pic #2


Passenger’s Side Pic #3
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  #2  
By CirrusSR22 on 09-30-2008, 05:32 AM
Default

• From under the car, loosen the bottom engine mount nuts. Leave the passenger side nut in place, but loose. Removed the driver’s side nut completely.

Driver’s Side


Passenger’s Side


Access the nuts though the holes in the control arms.


• Remove hose clamp from engine intake boot. This prevents tearing of the boot when engine is lifted.

• Gently and slowly jack the engine up using a piece of wood on the jack to distribute wieght evenly on the oil pan. Make sure no wires or hoses are binding as you lift the engine. By keeping the nuts on the passeneger side mount, the engine assembly with rotate as you lift it. I found this way easier than trying to lift the engine evenly on both sides.

Jacking engine up.


• Remove and replace the driver’s side engine mount. Gently lower the engine back down onto the new engine mount, making sure the mount is properly lined up so you don’t damage the threads. I needed a long pipe to slightly lever the engine into position. There is a locating pin/hole to line up. See picture. Start the nuts on the threads, but don’t tighten them.

Top of the driver’s side mount not quite lined up.


• Remove the nuts on the passenger’s side mounts. Gently and slowly jack the engine up using a piece of wood on the jack to distribute wieght evenly on the oil pan. Make sure no wires or hoses are binding as you lift the engine.
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  #3  
By CirrusSR22 on 09-30-2008, 05:33 AM
Default

• Remove and replace the passeneger’s side engine mount. Gently lower the engine back down onto the new engine mount, making sure the mount is properly lined up. There is a locating pin & hole to line up. Start threading the nuts back onto place, but don’t tighten them. Make sure the heat shield (passenger side only) is back into pace.

Locating pin (passenger side).


Passenger side in place.


• Now that the engine is resting on the new mounts, double check to make sure the engine is properly lined up on the mounts. Tighten and torque the mount nuts. 33 ft-lbs. Use new nuts or Loctite or both.



• Bolt everything else back into place. Don't forget the intake boot if you removed it.
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  #4  
By mgbman69 on 08-01-2009, 06:14 AM
Default

Great write up! Very helpful.
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  #5  
By gabe3 on 09-11-2009, 09:58 PM
Default

I just changed both engine mounts / motor mounts on my M44 on two different occasions, but within a week of each other.

I set out to replace the passenger side mount, which I could easily see was completely sheared. In the process of changing it, I saw that the driver side mount was also sheared.

This article was extremely helpful, and here are my two cents:

-Remove the wheels! You can see so much more and have unfettered access to where you need to be.

-This writeup is absolutely brilliant to recommend leaving the passenger side mount top nut on the bolt, but loose. This ensures that the more difficult drivers side mount is well aligned for replacement.

-Pay attention to how you removed the mounts, as this will be the easiest way to replace the new ones.

Thanks for this great writeup!
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  #6  
By dave45056 on 08-30-2010, 01:39 AM
Default

Great write up... I just did this today along with my transmission mounts. This helped a lot. Thanks!
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  #7  
By 47driver on 09-21-2010, 03:37 AM
Default

Thanks for the write up. I 'll have to give this a try.
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  #8  
By bmorekirby on 07-02-2011, 05:27 PM
Default

i just found this, and thank god because im doing my mounts today. thanks for the diy. yet another reason i love this forum!
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  #9  
By Kaliimc on 03-20-2012, 08:53 PM
Default

Guys, any noticeable change after changing both mounts?

I just saw mine when changing control arms last weekend and think I should change mine out based on the way they look.
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  #10  
By spidertri on 06-25-2012, 10:56 PM
Default

Finally did this today, once again, thanks for the awesome write up Cirrus. The whole job was way easier than I expected. Driver side was definitely more of a pain than the passenger side but not hard at all.
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  #11  
By Telefunken on 09-15-2014, 02:25 AM
Default

What would be a reasonable price for a mechanic to replace the engine mounts?
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  #12  
By dynagroove on 09-19-2016, 02:06 AM
Default

I know this is an old thread, but I just wanted to say that it's still useful and thank you for posting! I knew I had an issue with at least 1 mount, but turns out both mounts were broken. The tip on loosening the transmission mount was especially helpful. I went ahead and did the transmission mounts while I was down there. The car feels so much better now. Thanks again!
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