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Old 05-28-2015, 09:11 PM   #46
Fluxcapacitor
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Re rrfpr, yours is different from the dasc one & the only thing I can remember about the dasc one is that it had an air pressure fitting that went to the boost side of the supercharger & then it had two fuel pressure lines that both went under the car to the stock fuel pressure regulator/filet assemby (under the drivers leg area) and that it bypassed the stock pressure regulator (to boost fuel pressure whenever sc went into boost. You probably already know all that tho. If you ever go to huge injectors you'll need the adapters that JohnBoy mentioned. You can get them from a stage 3 kit or seperately here:
https://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac...ors-p2454.aspx
People who got the stage 3 kit don't sell them cause they use them for even bigger injectors You might find a copy of the software that's not being used tho (I think if the original owner doesn't use it anymore it perfectly ok to send a copy?) You'ld have to get the procedure for uploading it into your dme tho (requires a non-noisy big battery charger to keep battery volts above about 13.5V during upload, as well as a cable from laptop to OBD port under dash (can't remember the correct variety off the top of my head) Oh, and jumpering two connectors inside the circular data connector under the hood.
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Old 05-28-2015, 09:42 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDude View Post
Yeah, i think the fuel pump should probably be swapped anyway, i am pushing it for how old it is now. i should probably test the TPS just to be sure.

Do you think Nick's tuning would still work even though my build is somewhat different than the DASC? I have an intercooler and different Intake manifold. I wonder if this would affect the tune?


As for a pulley, i cannot source anything off the shelf, the supercharger i have is the Mercedes M62, and is not keyed like a standard Eaton Charger.
I called Pulleyboys, but they didnt have any splined pulleys, mostly keyed.


Mine has a 26 spline shaft, the only pulley i could find that would fit is an A/C pulley from a 528i. This particular SC had a Clutched pulley, but i welded the A/C clutch pulley together and bolted to the Shaft and have it hooked up like a traditional SC, with a bypass valve to reroute the air at idle.


John, you have any thoughts on the stall after touching the throttle?

TPS sender is bad or vacuum leak is my guess. John S
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Old 05-28-2015, 11:38 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fluxcapacitor View Post
Re rrfpr, yours is different from the dasc one & the only thing I can remember about the dasc one is that it had an air pressure fitting that went to the boost side of the supercharger & then it had two fuel pressure lines that both went under the car to the stock fuel pressure regulator/filet assemby (under the drivers leg area) and that it bypassed the stock pressure regulator (to boost fuel pressure whenever sc went into boost. You probably already know all that tho. If you ever go to huge injectors you'll need the adapters that JohnBoy mentioned. You can get them from a stage 3 kit or seperately here:
https://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac...ors-p2454.aspx

People who got the stage 3 kit don't sell them cause they use them for even bigger injectors You might find a copy of the software that's not being used tho (I think if the original owner doesn't use it anymore it perfectly ok to send a copy?) You'ld have to get the procedure for uploading it into your dme tho (requires a non-noisy big battery charger to keep battery volts above about 13.5V during upload, as well as a cable from laptop to OBD port under dash (can't remember the correct variety off the top of my head) Oh, and jumpering two connectors inside the circular data connector under the hood.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fluxcapacitor View Post
Re rough idle, I'd check for vacuum leaks foist (spray brake cleaner near potential leaks to see if it speeds up?) & then take off the idle valve & spray brake cleaner through it to make sure it isn't gunked up (avoid wd40 like the plague; it will dry out & gunk up!). I once had a pinched wire for the tps that screwed up the idle too. Had a flakey connector for the idle valve once too. (wiggle wires/connectors while it's running to rule those out) It's usually a vacuum leak tho.
Thanks for the Replies Guys!

Agreed on a possible VAC leak. I have a few couplers that were designed for a 2.5" Pipe (from my intercooler kit) but are attached on one side to a homemade adapter plate using 2.5 inch OD exhaust pipe, and they dont fit as tight as the 2.5" aluminum pipe for some reason. considering getting a 2.25"-2.5" reducer for these areas and stretching it on the pipe.

I cleaned the TPS when i cleaned up my throttle, but i didn't replace it, and its the same one since i have owned the car, and i have taken it off a few times and it floated around my garage during the build. Might be good insurance to get a new one. Ill check the wiring too, since i did lengthen the cables, there might be a ground/short happening.

The BEGi RRFPR is supposed to be used in conjunction with the Stock FPR, it is installed on the return line and when boosted it restricts the fuel from returning to the tank which raises the pressure in the rail. In idle it is supposed to open all the way up and rely on the stock FPR for Idle fuel.

But i just havn't seen a BEGi RRFPR without a check valve, and i have never seen a photo with the restrictor installed, So i don't know if my RRFPR is even setup 100% correct, which i think may be causing the stall. i can see the restrictor for sale on BEGi's website, but theres no install instructions for this little 3$ piece.

I am also using 20lb injectors from a Volvo/Thunderbird. I don't have to use the Nick G' adapters since my manifold is the E30 M42 manifold which aren't the Air shroud version.

Ill check the couplers this weekend and let you guys know how it all works out.

You Guys rock, keep the thoughts coming!
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Old 07-01-2015, 06:59 PM   #49
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Were you able to fix idle? The rrfp shouldn't be holding pressure for more than a fraction of a sec. It's not impossible, but it would need a "springy" volume of gas combined w/ a restriction (like an "RC" circuit will hold a charge longer the bigger the capacitor or resistance). Fuel filter housing might be springy, but I'm guessing it's the TPS like Johnboy said (I once did a cold solder of one of those tps wires in the middle of winter up here in Boston & a year later the idle started screwing up due to that "cold" solder working loose).
Oh, Johnboy, it's Don. I bought the MM engine identical to yours immediately after you got yours (I think I even got your trade in engine block

Dude, if it's not the tps, you can check to see if idle goes to rich by buying one of those bluetooth obd2 devices that connects wirelessly to your smart phone (avoid the cheap blue or white knock off's! & get the green one that goes for about $70 as that one will last & not drain your battery overnight either. Oh ignore software that come with it & download the much better "Torque" android app) You can make custom displays with Torque & look at the raw oxygen signal data & see if it pegs one way or the other.
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Old 07-08-2015, 05:51 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fluxcapacitor View Post
Were you able to fix idle? The rrfp shouldn't be holding pressure for more than a fraction of a sec. It's not impossible, but it would need a "springy" volume of gas combined w/ a restriction (like an "RC" circuit will hold a charge longer the bigger the capacitor or resistance). Fuel filter housing might be springy, but I'm guessing it's the TPS like Johnboy said (I once did a cold solder of one of those tps wires in the middle of winter up here in Boston & a year later the idle started screwing up due to that "cold" solder working loose).
Oh, Johnboy, it's Don. I bought the MM engine identical to yours immediately after you got yours (I think I even got your trade in engine block

Dude, if it's not the tps, you can check to see if idle goes to rich by buying one of those bluetooth obd2 devices that connects wirelessly to your smart phone (avoid the cheap blue or white knock off's! & get the green one that goes for about $70 as that one will last & not drain your battery overnight either. Oh ignore software that come with it & download the much better "Torque" android app) You can make custom displays with Torque & look at the raw oxygen signal data & see if it pegs one way or the other.

Flux, Thanks for your message, i did actually fix the problem. I went ahead and changed the "restictor" on my RRFPR, and it had no effect. I also checked the wiring on my TPS & IAC since i lengthened both sets of wires to relocate the throttle, but the continuity of both sets of wires was solid.

The problem ended up being a HUGE boost leak just like Johnboy said. It was located right after my MAF, i guess i didn't tighten it enough and then started messing around with my trottle body, and that area is a huge vacuum since that pipe dumps straight into the SC, and since my SC is constantly belt driven theirs always a vacuum on the post MAF, pre SC section of pipe.


I also adjusted the way my throttle opens up. I am using a universal throttle cable so it was kind of recreating the BMW throttle setup with homemade parts and pieces found at various parts stores. The JEGS universal kit i bought has an adjustment screw on it, but it does not allow you to tweak it like you can with the Stock OEM adjustment screw.

I replaced my TPS with another TPS i had laying around. I went ahead and changed all my vacuum lines to thicker emission tubing from goodyear (looks like really small radiator hose) The car runs really strong now, and pulls great. No Check engine lights, and no weird noises. Bypass valve works like a champ, can hear it chirp between vacuum and boost.

My exhaust sucks and sounds like a damn lawnmower, since its a homemade magnaflow+no res+ autozone pipe. I am saving up for a decent Walker or may just hold off and go for the Stromung. But other than that the car is getting ready for paint, i am working on the hood now trying to make it as low profile as possible. I only need a half inch more space, so i am going to try this :

http://honda-tech.com/honda-crx-ef-c...up%2A-2224664/

Great info in the above thread, and the result looks amazing, worth a shot since i can find a replacement hood pretty easily.

Last edited by TheDude; 07-08-2015 at 05:55 PM.
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Old 07-08-2015, 09:25 PM   #51
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Great to see you fixed the idle! Re exhaust; I had a nice sounding supersprint muffler that sounded good on a stock engine, but then after an engine replacement w/ the higher flowing MM engine, the exhaust got REALY loud. Couldn't hear the stereo loud All I did to fix it was put in a BIG & LONG magnaflow resonator before the muffler and that made the exhaust sound poifect (nice low frequency rumble) A resonator before the muffler is like a capacitor bleed-off before a resistor ie it eliminates the high frequency noise
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Old 07-08-2015, 11:30 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by Fluxcapacitor View Post
Great to see you fixed the idle! Re exhaust; I had a nice sounding supersprint muffler that sounded good on a stock engine, but then after an engine replacement w/ the higher flowing MM engine, the exhaust got REALY loud. Couldn't hear the stereo loud All I did to fix it was put in a BIG & LONG magnaflow resonator before the muffler and that made the exhaust sound poifect (nice low frequency rumble) A resonator before the muffler is like a capacitor bleed-off before a resistor ie it eliminates the high frequency noise

Indeed! i didnt realize how loud it was gonna be when i chopped it off., i do have a new 15 speaker sound system and dynomatte in my ti, so it blocks most of the sound. But neighbors watch me go by and look really pissed or confused.

I actually ended up messing with my exhaust because my first Catalytic converter was rusted through and i needed an exhaust but didnt have the cash for a decent system, so i welded some pipe together and it worked great for awhile, then it all fell apart, i was able to spare the cash for a new Walker cat off of Rockauto, but i built the muffler i have now for like 65$.

Now i am trying to find a used Remus/Stromung/SS muffler or buy a new Walker QuietFlow for $225. Finding used TI exhausts is hard.......

Last edited by TheDude; 07-08-2015 at 11:32 PM.
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Old 07-10-2015, 02:33 AM   #53
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I ran 3" pipe from the down pipe to the back. 2 3" resonators and a 2-chamber 50 series Flowmaster and it sounded perfect. No drone or fart can sound just nice and mellow until I got on it. Glad you are getting it all finished up. Nice build.


Just read a little, how are you Don? Sorry to see it go but I sold mine 2 months ago. Hope you are dooing well. Also that motor can handle 500hp constant and spikes even higher, good build by MM

Last edited by xxxJohnBoyxxx; 07-10-2015 at 02:40 AM.
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Old 07-10-2015, 05:22 PM   #54
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Johnboy! long time no talk! (I tried e-mailing a while back but your old rr e-mail doesn't work anymore). Sorry to hear you sold your car! (I'm betting it put out the most HP of any 4 cylinder 318ti !
If you're interested in the exact same MM engine, let me know? (you'd have to buy the whole car tho
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Old 07-11-2015, 08:37 PM   #55
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New email for all: No1Be4Me@gmail.com

Perment email for rest of my life

Lost the old one with my old ISP. I use a 4G phone for internet now. Gotta cut costs when times are tough
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