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Old 04-02-2013, 03:42 AM   #1
dantheman67
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Default Flywheel alignment on clutch job?

I'm replacing my clutch this weekend-- already ordered the Fichtel-Sachs 3-piece kit today. I also ordered the clutch alignment tool. There are no shudders or vibrations when driving the car so I'm going to try to reuse the flywheel since it only has 120,000 miles on it. My question is do you need to do anything special to center the flywheel before bolting it back on? I'm taking it off to do the rear main seal.
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Old 04-02-2013, 03:47 AM   #2
xxxJohnBoyxxx
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I would get the flywheel turned if it has grooves or damage to the surface. Doesn't cost much and is standard practice on any clutch change. Also torque the bolts correctly and I use red loctite on them.

Best of luck
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:42 AM   #3
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Cool, thanks. Did you need to use the clutch alignment tool to center the flywheel properly or did you just bolt it on?
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Old 04-02-2013, 12:34 PM   #4
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pelican parts 8 bucks.
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:45 AM   #5
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So I did my clutch job this weekend. Everything except the exhaust is buttoned back up. How do the heat shields go back on? I ran out of time today and couldn't figure out how the heatshields go back on. Can anyone help?

Will update on Monday or Tuesday on how the car drives. Gonna pick up some D4 ATF tomorrow.
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Old 04-09-2013, 06:36 AM   #6
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Alright! I put the exhaust in today and changed the thermostat, motor mounts and fuel filter. Took it out for a drive tonight, didn't know what to expect. This is the first time I've led a big car project before, other times (rebuilding an engine) I was doing it with the help of my friend. I hired a guy from craigslist for this clutch change as a second set of hands.

Anyway, I took it out for a drive. The belts squeal loudly because I spilled coolant on them when I replaced the thermostat. The car also idles horribly, bouncing up and down and almost stalling out. But the good news is the clutch grabs relentlessly and that little engine pulls HARD from 10mph+! I couldn't take it up to redline because I ran out of straight road but it got up there FAST.

Hopefully the idle issue is just a loose intake hose somewhere; I'll check it out in the morning if I have time before school. The clutch engagement point is much closer to the floor now. That is normal, right? I didn't do anything with the clutch hydraulics.

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Old 04-09-2013, 06:38 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisbec View Post


pelican parts 8 bucks.
That's the tool I used. Definitely needed it for this job. The 3-piece $200 Sachs clutch kit I bought came with the tool though, so I had 1 extra.

The flywheel was in good condition; the finish was as smooth as a mirror so I reused it. Took it off, did the rear main seal as preventative maintenance (124k miles, it wasn't leaking) and put the old flywheel back on using new bolts.

Last edited by dantheman67; 04-09-2013 at 06:40 AM.
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Old 04-11-2013, 04:35 AM   #8
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The reason you machine the flywheel is to provide tooth to the surface so the new clutch can mate correctly. Given the effort to do the clutch,, and the cost of the parts,, I'd always machine or replace.. Of course without a very spacial machine its almost impossible to get a good machine surface on the dual mass flywheel.. Mine is getting a single mass if I have to tear it apart... I have a couple times used a DA sander with 120 grit to take the shine off the surface in a pinch..

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Old 04-14-2013, 10:50 AM   #9
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I discovered the cause of the bad idle and running: faulty MAF! Driving with the MAF disconnected and it drives 100x better. New one is on its way from Hong Kong lol. can't beat $35.

The coolant slipping belt problem solved itself after a day of driving.
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