BimmerBum's 330ti Thread...

[Dan I]

Nice...what'd you do for exhaust? Dr.Vanos stg 2...cams in your future?

[BimmerBum]

Originally Posted by Dan I

Nice...what'd you do for exhaust? Dr.Vanos stg 2...cams in your future?

Exhaust is just stock M3 to where it would not fit anymore then into a 2 in 1 out muffler... looks stock.

Well... yes cams are coming but... see next post.

[BimmerBum]

Alright. After doing the vanos the power band was back in check and it seemed to run much smoother BUT there was still a ticking... annoying.

Well the ticking turned out to be what we believe is a knocking on cyl #6. I pulled the plugs and found oil on that plug as well.

I don't know as much as I would like to about this car/engine's past anyway so I have made the decision to pull it all apart. I will have a lot more confidence when the car goes back together my way. How crazy I get with the rebuild is going to depend on what I find inside.

I am a little bummed but I will enjoy the car much more when I know it is right.

I will continue to update on this thread. I will have some stuff for sale soon as well.

On the bright side, I am currently sporting a 95 CS with an M50 with S50 cams and software. 220 hp from what I have read, pretty fun!

[FMD]

http://azbmw.org/index.php?name=Foru...&p=78728#78728
S50 rebuilt parts

[BimmerBum]

Originally Posted by FMD

http://azbmw.org/index.php?name=Foru...&p=78728#78728
S50 rebuilt parts

Nice price! ...and I sell parts! If I were further into this thing I might jump on that but I am considering a bit of a performance rebuild.

[dahamler]

Sorry to hear about that happening, you were just getting things sorted out. I would certainly figure out why cylinder six died before you start your rebuild. A faulty part could easily reproduce the problem on the rebuilt engine (please don’t ask me how I know).

Was the plug saturated with oil? That would lead me to think that the engine had bad rings and therefore should have smoked a bit upon a cold startup. I had a leaky valve cover on my engine and it soaked the spark plug every time I removed it which made me believe that I also had bad rings.

Rod knock is usually associated with pre-detonation and in some cases overreving. I had a ticking noise once that I swore was rod knock or a valvetrain problem but it ending up being a small leak in my exhaust manifold gasket.
If you do decide to rebuild the engine yourself be sure to take pictures of everything before the disassembly and to mike the crank and to use a plasti-gauge to check the bearing clearance especially if you have the crank turned. Also make sure that you purchase the correct undersized bearings for the job. Everything else is pretty straightforward on these engines, use plenty of assembly lube and follow your preferred break-in procedure to the T.

I can certainly understand what must be going through your mind right now but be advised that there are some members on this forum that has been exactly where you are now and we are happy to lead a hand if you need it. -Dan

[BimmerBum]

Originally Posted by dahamler

Sorry to hear about that happening, you were just getting things sorted out. I would certainly figure out why cylinder six died before you start your rebuild. A faulty part could easily reproduce the problem on the rebuilt engine (please don’t ask me how I know).

Was the plug saturated with oil? That would lead me to think that the engine had bad rings and therefore should have smoked a bit upon a cold startup. I had a leaky valve cover on my engine and it soaked the spark plug every time I removed it which made me believe that I also had bad rings.

Rod knock is usually associated with pre-detonation and in some cases overreving. I had a ticking noise once that I swore was rod knock or a valvetrain problem but it ending up being a small leak in my exhaust manifold gasket.
If you do decide to rebuild the engine yourself be sure to take pictures of everything before the disassembly and to mike the crank and to use a plasti-gauge to check the bearing clearance especially if you have the crank turned. Also make sure that you purchase the correct undersized bearings for the job. Everything else is pretty straightforward on these engines, use plenty of assembly lube and follow your preferred break-in procedure to the T.

I can certainly understand what must be going through your mind right now but be advised that there are some members on this forum that has been exactly where you are now and we are happy to lead a hand if you need it. -Dan

Thank you for the support and kind words!

I do indeed plan on finding the source of both the knock and the oil on the plug.

At the very least I also plan on having the rotating assembly balanced together.

I am fortunate that the other cars I have around here are also quite fun to drive so I am not nearly as bummed as I could be!