My 328 into a 1995ti swap thread

[wake74]

Oh, and I managed to destroy the plastic oil filter cap. I think the previous owner must have put the thing on with an impact wrench :-( Luckily they aren't too expensive new, or I'll scrounge one up used.

[wake74]

This is progressing at less than a snails pace. I did manage to do a bit of work on the tranny today, replacing the detents, throw-out bearing, plastic pivot, etc.


Anyone know the correct part number for the clutch flex hose that would go between the 318ti and the 328 (ZF) tranny? The part numbers are different between a 95 318ti and a 1996 328i (the donor). I'm not sure what the difference is between the two hoses.

[Strawman]

I used the hose from the 318ti chassis on my 328i-sourced ZF trans swap. It will bolt right up.

[wake74]

Engine out! Took about 5-6 hrs doing it solo. I had just enough engine lift and head room to do the single pick point method in the front. Not enough room to pull with it the garage door closed and barely enough head room with the garage door in the open position.

It's at least progress!

[wake74]

Finally some momentum on this swap. Engine and tranny are now in.

Almost done, well except for wiring, plumbing, exhaust, shifter. driveshaft, figuring out the PCV system, battery relocation............. :-)

[wake74]

Progress continues, the electrical is pretty much all done, and the plumbing is all in. I am waiting on new vac and air hoses for the OBD1 conversion which should be here on Friday to install the intake. And exhaust is still left.

I completed the battery relocation which is pretty straight forward. Not completely happy with using the full size battery and battery box but it will work for now.



Also got the seats out and cleaning up the leather bolsters using the Leatherworld kit that has the DIY on this site. We will see how it works. Picture is after first application of the filler.

[wake74]

More progress. Getting close. Hopefully 1-2 more weekends. This engine is much closer to the insulation on the firewall at the top than I remember it being when I pulled it out of the 328. Made getting the M50 fuel rail with the FPR difficult.



Can anyone confirm that I put the fan in the right direction? I understand it will blow air the right way regardless but it will blow much more if the curve is correct.



Big item left is exhaust. My OBD2 headers had 5 broken inconol studs so by the time I deal with those, weld up the SAP holes etc. I am going to pickup an OBD1 aftermarket header set (repros of name brand) for $60 tomorrow and use those.

[wake74]

T-1 until start-up! Hoping to turn the key tomorrow morning. Got an exhaust installed using the parts I had on had, which will be good enough for start-up, debug, and a trip to the muffler shop. Just need to add fluids, bleed the clutch, install the new fuel 17# injectors, etc.

Nervous as all can be, I DON"T want to have to pull the engine or tranny for any issues.

[roadrash]

Oh yay, I tuned in just in time! Good luck!

[Mikkemus]

Hi, great project, im considering doing this myself, im now at the planning stage, i want to buy all the parts and study it all before i start to work, may i ask what driveshaft you used? what rear axle? stock? stock diff?

best regards
mikkemus

[wake74]

First attempt at a drive was not a success. Two issues:

1/3 of my power steering pump pulley shattered, assuming I must have hit it at some point while the engine was out. Off to a pick-n-pull tomorrow, as it appears they are pretty much one-size fits all for E36.

Second, my clutch still needs a lot of help with bleeding. I would guess I'm getting only about 50% normal engagement and then only at the very bottom of the stroke. I've bled and rebled, and even followed the correct instructions to remove the slave (major PITA), and did the push in the piston method with the bleed nipple up. I'm convinced there isn't any air in the slave, as I bled the slave several times, and got consistent no bubbles. I have to pump it several times to get it into first. :-(

[Strawman]

It is very difficult to get all the air out of the hydraulic clutch system without the aid of a power bleeder. I built my own power bleeder using a small garden sprayer (~$15 at Home Depot), and adapted the sprayer hose to a spare (junkyard) brake reservoir cap using a screw-in tire valve system (also from Home Depot, ~$4). Essentially, I fill the reservoir with brake fluid to the fill line, pump a bunch of air pressure using the sprayer, and then perform the bleeding procedure. If you're not up to making your own, you can buy a Motive Bleeder for ~$60. Worked great on my M Roadster and my M52-swapped 318ti (and other non-BMW cars). Here is an example DIY articles:

http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed...atech/bleeder/

Good luck!

[wake74]

Thanks. I have a garden sprayer already and will pick up a spare reservoir cap at the pick-n-pull this morning.

It was slightly better after much pumping last night but still not where it needs to be.

If all I am doing is using the sprayer to pressurize I could just hook the compressor up to it with 10 or so lbs or pressure too I think.

[Strawman]

True, compressor air (regulated way down to ~5psi or so) would do. But I constructed the garden sprayer setup because:

1. It is good for track day use.
2. I'm a CSOB who doesn't want to spend $60 for a Motive one!

Good luck, and great to see your swapped car is up-n-running!