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Old 05-19-2013, 12:22 AM   #16
Shellback
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Update:
I used a little more persuasion to get the H/S into the hub. After a couple of minutes of F bombs and hammering, I was able to see the threads.
More to follow....
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:15 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shellback View Post
Update:
I used a little more persuasion to get the H/S into the hub. After a couple of minutes of F bombs and hammering, I was able to see the threads.
More to follow....
Any more progress on this? I'm about to do the same installation on my 4 cylinder Z3, which from the factory should have an identical rear subframe/diff/axles to your car. Right now I'm running an 6 cylinder E30 diff and E30 axles. I'm about to drop the subframe to install the AKG subframe and trailing arm bushings as well as a 6 cylinder Z3 diff. I'm hoping I can use the E30 axles without changing the output flanges.
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Old 06-22-2013, 06:22 AM   #18
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Default f this swap!!!!

So I am attempting to do this swap as I type this. I have help from a buddy who is very experienced with BMW's and has done several diff swaps on various BMS's, except a ti of course. I we got everything pulled out pretty standard and that is about where the various write ups usefulness end. I bought a 4.10 ratio e30 M diff and brand new e30 axles from rockauto. We attempted to mount the diff but could not get the uppermost bolts to thread. The top of the diff was hitting a chassis cross member so we notched it just a little to get it to fit. We got the diff mounted up, now on to the axles. The axles fit no problem with a little speed sensor shimming, however, the stock ti bolts that mount the axle to the diff are not long enough, the axles I bought came with new bolts that do work but the little linking washers that bolt the inner CV to the diff are not big enough for the new bolts.... Tomorrow I am heading to the junk yard with my buddy to try and figure this out.... ***RAGE QUIT***
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Old 06-22-2013, 02:14 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killergopher View Post
So I am attempting to do this swap as I type this. I have help from a buddy who is very experienced with BMW's and has done several diff swaps on various BMS's, except a ti of course. I we got everything pulled out pretty standard and that is about where the various write ups usefulness end. I bought a 4.10 ratio e30 M diff and brand new e30 axles from rockauto. We attempted to mount the diff but could not get the uppermost bolts to thread. The top of the diff was hitting a chassis cross member so we notched it just a little to get it to fit. We got the diff mounted up, now on to the axles. The axles fit no problem with a little speed sensor shimming, however, the stock ti bolts that mount the axle to the diff are not long enough, the axles I bought came with new bolts that do work but the little linking washers that bolt the inner CV to the diff are not big enough for the new bolts.... Tomorrow I am heading to the junk yard with my buddy to try and figure this out.... ***RAGE QUIT***
This link may help you:
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28910
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Old 06-23-2013, 05:17 PM   #20
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Update:
She is up and running! Handling is much better, and the rear end is planted solid. I tended to have less power and grip to the rear with the oem open diff. With the torsion, there's definitely a noticeable improvement.
I LOVE the gear ratio. The S52 with the eom diff was killing my daily commute. I had to row through the gears too frequently.
I've never owned poly bushings so here's my impression. I can hear a bit more road noise in the rear, especially when going over rumble strips or highway lane reflectors. I can also hear the diff at certain speeds - a slight winning noise. I suspect its the AKG diff bushings along with the metal disk that supports the bushings.
If I had another TI, I would probably go oem rubber for a DD. Don't get me wrong, I like the choice I made.
One more thing. The rear sits a bit lower. Weird! Maybe its just my eyes but I swear I notice a bit of height change. I like it!
Other lessons learned:
Bushing removal tools = essential!
The torch method as was recommended earlier was awesome.
Patience!

Last edited by Shellback; 06-23-2013 at 05:27 PM.
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Old 07-03-2013, 04:16 PM   #21
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what gear ratio should i use for my s52? i cant decide is a 3.23 good? it would be for DD city and some highway.
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Old 07-03-2013, 11:48 PM   #22
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I am in love with the 4.10 ratio LSD in my ti, it pulls so hard. However it is not so great on the highway. Sitting at close to 4k rpm's at 70 mph. First through third is very, VERY short. It all depends on the driver though. On the weekends and a few nights a week we hit the canyon roads for fun and having the 4.10 is great for that purpose, which is why I went with the 4.10 ratio. For me the sacrifice in daily driving for the improved performance in my hobby driving was worth it.
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Old 07-04-2013, 04:53 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by middlegati View Post
what gear ratio should i use for my s52? i cant decide is a 3.23 good? it would be for DD city and some highway.
3:23 is good. I am going with 3:08 torsens on both of my swaps. I like the good highway mileage and I really like the 70mph 2nd gear for autocrosses.
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Old 07-05-2013, 07:11 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by BimmerBum View Post
3:23 is good. I am going with 3:08 torsens on both of my swaps. I like the good highway mileage and I really like the 70mph 2nd gear for autocrosses.
which dif would you say gives the best mpg?/( doesnt need to be the best but close) but still great for driving( not speed racer, but comfy)
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:30 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by middlegati View Post
which dif would you say gives the best mpg?/( doesnt need to be the best but close) but still great for driving( not speed racer, but comfy)

That really depends on the type of driving you do most. You can always make a safe bet that the ratios BMW used in similar set ups will be the best all around solution. 3:08, 3:15, and 3:23
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Old 12-02-2014, 06:56 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shellback View Post


Left: Longer hex bolt from E30
Right: Shorter/thinner Torx bolt from 318TI


Output flange from 318TI. Should this be swapped into the Z3 differential?
Just pull out and insert into the Z3 diff?
Resurrecting a lot of threads today but wondering if you ended up using the old 318ti or new Z3 output flanges? Which bolts?

I'm doing almost exactly the same swap and when trying to install new E30 halfshafts onto Z3 diff it seems like the bolts are too long to fit. Was hoping I wouldn't have to get new output flanges and that I could just use the Z3 flanges that came with the diff ...
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