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Old 08-09-2010, 08:12 PM   #1
rcair3d
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Default Scavenge pump

I am in search of a scavenge pump. I figured posting would increase my knowledge base. I am looking for almost anything new of used that is a good deal.
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Old 08-10-2010, 06:59 AM   #2
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If your referring to the kind that pull a vacuum on the crank case,
Hopefully you know that you need to run special seals and gaskets to use one.
Basically you have to glue the engine shut. Or it will suck dirt in.

I used to have an issue of engine from Hotrod that had a really thorough test of the Moroso one on a Dyno. It had limited impact below 600HP in a 350 small block.

A good crank scraper and windage tray had more positive benefit.

Now if your dry sumping it and your talking about the dry sump scavenger pump....
Whole different story.

Dave
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Old 08-11-2010, 10:40 PM   #3
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He is looking for a turbo oil scavenger pump to pull oil from the turbo so it doesn't blow by the seals. I have a new scavenger 500 miles with a bad seal in it. Was $300 I want $125 and they will do a complete re-build for $100.

I suggest you eliminate it like I did so you don't get stranded. I was disappointed and now I'm happy not to have one. I have a extra perfect turbo with 500 miles on it too because of this damn pump. When it went bad the smoke caused traffic to stop behind me and ruined my narrow & wideband O2's. If this pump fails the turbo can not eliminate oil and it's a mess.

If you adjust your turbo case center to 1/8 tilt towards the block and run a straight hose right to the top of the pan baffle area you will have no issues with 5.5-5.3 quarts of oil, at least I don't. If I run right it the top on the dip stick I smoke until I'm down a tad on the stick then it is good and doesn't burn anymore oil at all, zero smoke.

I know we discussed this but this is for anyone else that needs the information...

John Smith
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Old 08-12-2010, 12:56 AM   #4
rcair3d
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Yeah,
Also what oil viscosity are you running? I have always ran a thicker oil by preference, I think I should go thinner. My return line appears to be pretty straight forward. I will post a pic tonight hopefully.
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Old 08-12-2010, 03:27 AM   #5
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The hose does slant down contrary to the photo, but tomorrow I am going to angle the turbo case center about 45* towards the block.
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Old 08-12-2010, 09:35 PM   #6
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Yes I can see the issue right in the photo. Please get it on a straight slant to the oil pan. I'm going to try to get a picture of mine for you today.

The turbo should be able to let oil drip out of it and have a free flow to the oil pan. No restrictions.

Also another issue we did not discuss. PCV~~ do you have a one-way valve on you PCV hose if your running one?

If not your blowing boost into your crankcase during boost and causing oil leaks and this also causes the turbo to have issues. If the crank has positive pressure during boost the turbo can not eliminate oil. The positive pressure pushes the oil back into the turbo and it leaks right past the seals into your exhaust.

Most turbo motors loose some oil, it's a fact but I made a special PCV system to handle boost and PCV at the same time. It's generic and uses a catch can but works great. The PCV valve works in all normal driving conditions to create vacuum in the crankcase and stop oil leaks. During boost the system goes to a open crankcase and vents all gasses so there is zero pressure in the crankcase. The catch can catches all vapor and oils during closed (PCV) or open (Boost) operating conditions. You need a catch can, hose, hose clamps and 3 old style mechanical PCV valves for this.

Also just a oneway valve would do the job but won't give you open zero crankcase pressure during boost...Plus you would not believe how much water (condensation) I get out of the oil from cold start-ups and other stuff from oil break-down vapor.

I can draw a diagram and post some pictures but it's real generic. It does work great and I don't have oil leaks and have a fully working PCV system during normal driving.

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Old 08-12-2010, 09:59 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcair3d View Post
Yeah,
Also what oil viscosity are you running? I have always ran a thicker oil by preference, I think I should go thinner. My return line appears to be pretty straight forward. I will post a pic tonight hopefully.
I run Mobil 1 15w-50 but I'm in Florida. Please remember I run a modified oiling system @ 50psi crusing and 75-90psi upper rpm and 25psi at idle. This is pressures hot after a long trip. Cold it is 90psi and 50 at idle. I think it's a V8 pump with a modified 90psi regulator in there, trick stuff from MM.

I would stick with a good 10w-40 synthetic and change it often. The frequient oil changes is important with a turbo and any oil that does not "coke" when it get's turbo hot will ensure that turbo lasts a long time.

John S
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Old 08-12-2010, 10:10 PM   #8
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Set yours 45deg angle and your good...I think your issue is PCV related too. If your not blocking boost from going back through PCV then it's not allowing your Turbo to get rid of it's oil under boost. You need a open crankcase under boost...

Pics of mine yours should drain better after you do the 45 on the turbo:







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Old 08-13-2010, 12:58 AM   #9
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Okay I think I figured it out, I know my turbo is slanted slightly already and I want to say the hose is pretty good. So I ventured on another idea, Check crankcase pressure. So I removed my aftermarket check valve all together and threw a filter on both of my hoses. I started it and ran it, no kidding it ran great and no smoke at all. Now I see John has instructed me to do just that, thanks. Also I have a picture of my oil catch can and in line pcv. What should I do to completely resolve this problem? Am I able to just cap off the line coming off the intake and throw a filter on the valve cover and call it a day? Or is there a problem with that?
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Old 08-13-2010, 05:01 AM   #10
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So the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system is designed to regulate and remove fumes from the engine crankcase, and to alleviate crankcase pressure which could cause oil leaks or seal damage. The PCV system routes crankcase fumes into the intake manifold where they can be burned to eliminate harmful emissions into the atmosphere(for EPA). The PCV valve controls the amount of crankcase flow volume depending on the engine's load. With more power, the more blow-by gases are produced, and the more the PCV system flows oil vapor in to the intake manifold. The PCV valve also functions as a check valve to prevent intake manifold flow from reversing back into the crankcase when there is a backfire, or during periods of high manifold pressure.

I get all that, but how could that work under boost? There will not be a vacuum, so it seems to me there will always be pressure in the crankcase under boost unless it is vented to the atmosphere. I did some research on a Mitsubishi Evolution forum, Those motors' valve cover has an atmosphere vent and PCV port. So what I think I will do is "T" off the valve cover with two check valves one to the catch can then to the intake, and the other to a filter to the atmosphere.
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Old 08-14-2010, 03:16 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcair3d View Post
So the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system is designed to regulate and remove fumes from the engine crankcase, and to alleviate crankcase pressure which could cause oil leaks or seal damage. The PCV system routes crankcase fumes into the intake manifold where they can be burned to eliminate harmful emissions into the atmosphere(for EPA). The PCV valve controls the amount of crankcase flow volume depending on the engine's load. With more power, the more blow-by gases are produced, and the more the PCV system flows oil vapor in to the intake manifold. The PCV valve also functions as a check valve to prevent intake manifold flow from reversing back into the crankcase when there is a backfire, or during periods of high manifold pressure.

I get all that, but how could that work under boost? There will not be a vacuum, so it seems to me there will always be pressure in the crankcase under boost unless it is vented to the atmosphere. I did some research on a Mitsubishi Evolution forum, Those motors' valve cover has an atmosphere vent and PCV port. So what I think I will do is "T" off the valve cover with two check valves one to the catch can then to the intake, and the other to a filter to the atmosphere.
The issue is your motor was not made to make boost so the BMW PCV valve is not made for boost. It allows boost to flow back and pressurize the crankcase. If you cap the PCV line with a 1-way vlave during boost you are capping the crankcase and it will build pressure and cause leaks through the turbo and seals. I have my PCV pulling vacuum during all normal driving conidtions so there is a vacuum in the crankcase and it helps eliminate oil leaks at the seals, during boost my system goes to a open air system venting all crankcase pressue to atmosphere through the catch can and a filter. This lets the crankcase breath under boost and allows the turbo to eliminate oil. When I let off and there is no boost the system immediately closes and goes into vacuum using the PCV system and creating a vacuum in the crankcase pulling oil away from seals and removing blow-by and burning it.

Under boost on my motor I have my valve cover PCV line to open air and let it breath. It's a simple system with 3 PCV valves and 1 filter, 1 catch can but it works great. Before this I have smoke and oil leaks from boost.

Hope this was not confusing
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Old 08-14-2010, 04:02 AM   #12
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I think we are exactly on the same page. My last post also theorized about a similar check system.
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