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Old 08-13-2014, 03:35 AM   #1
uncledavid
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Default keyfob not in sync with alarm system '97 Z3 1.9L


The battery was disconnected during a lengthy period of time during a coolant system rebuild. The car is not armed and the fobs only trip 3 beeps. I have to use the key to lock and unlock. I can hear the doors and rear lock.

How do I reset the sync you guys ? There is little information on the sites.
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Old 08-14-2014, 01:16 AM   #2
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Default 1 Answer Courtesy of zroadster.com

**EDIT (as I notice some confusion over the years)**
Follow steps 1-5 only if:
- your car has been locked with the alarm armed (i.e. you lock and activate the alarm through the keyfob),
- following the lock & alarm activation, your battery goes flat and you find that your remotes have been "unlearned" by the car while still locked with the alarm activated.

While the alarm in the "armed" mode, it cannot be disarmed without instruction from a known keyfob. The problem that occurs when the aforementioned events take place is that when the alarm is in the "armed" mode, it cannot learn new keyfobs and hence you can't reprogram your existing (or any other) keyfobs to make it work.

Follow steps 5 onwards if your car has somehow "unlearned" the remotes but your battery hasn't gone flat with the alarm still in "armed" mode, or if you simply want to code a new remote alongside your existing one. Try steps 5-9 FIRST and only if it doesn't work, look at steps 1-5.

** END OF EDIT **

If your battery's gone dead and the alarm "forgets" your keyfobs, here's how you recode them:
1) remove glove box
2) pull out alarm control unit and remove receiver module from it. This will reveal 8 pins. Do not unplug control unit. When you do this, the alarm will go off and you will look like a fool, but don't worry, be patient for 30 secs and it will stop.
3) Close the car's doors and sit in the car (actually you need to ensure that doors, trunk and bonnet are all shut). Take a short length of wire (ends exposed) and short pins 1(bottom) to pin 6(3rd from top). This will cause your doors to lock.
4) Now short pin 1 to pin 8 and this will cause the doors to unlock. The alarm is now disactivated (this is the equivalent of a known keyfob sending a command to the alarm to disarm and also open the doors).
5) On the receiver module, there is a soft rubber blob that covers the coding switch, you need to remove this. Also, gently pull apart the cover of the receiver module and flick the coding switch to the right, this prepares the module for "learning" your remotes.
6) Reassemble the receiver module (dont put the blob back yet) and reconnect with the alarm control unit.
7) Press the red button on your remote. You will observe that it has been recognised. Press the red buttons on any other remotes you have so the alarm can learn them too.
8) With a long instrument (eg. pencil), flick the coding switch back to the left. Replace blob, get out of car, check the alarm works, replace glovebox.
9) Smile, you saved yourself a nice bunch of cash.
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Old 08-14-2014, 01:21 AM   #3
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Default 2 Answer Courtesty of zroadster.com

Postby Robin » Wed 25 Oct, 2006 16:49

Last time my remote went out of sync with the sensor in the car, a service advisor showed me what to do:
1) Turn the ignition on then off with the key.
2) Hold down the unlock button whilst pressing the lock button 3 times.
Worked a treat. Or was your problem more serious than that.

komis wrote:The process Robin described is used only for the keys with integrated remote control, not the ones with the seperate fob.
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Old 08-14-2014, 01:26 AM   #4
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Default Finding the Answers



I hope somebody in 318ti has an answer; I could not find it. Please speak up
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Old 08-14-2014, 03:14 PM   #5
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Which fob do you have? Two or three button FOB? I recall seeing a sync procedure somewhere for the two button, I think on BFC.
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1998 318ti Sport - "Max" Schwartz II/Schwartz sport interior, S52
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Old 08-14-2014, 03:34 PM   #6
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Default Keyfob



I have the two button fob. Something floating in your mind ? There has to be an easier way than tearing out the glove box ! http://www.318ti.org/forum/attachmen...1408026643than
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Old 08-17-2014, 06:16 PM   #7
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Thumbs up ANSWER TO MY QUEST



Thank you BIMMERFEST

No need to reregister if he is getting the 3 chirps. The chirps show the alarm is recognizing the remote, but one of the switches is not set.

The three chirps means one of the switches is not working. The most often problem is the hood or the radio switch. The hood switch is on the driver's side on the radiator support. The radio switch is behind the radio. Both can be unplugged to remove them from the system and to check which may be the problem. The doors and trunk also have switches. Some have said to lean on the door while using the remote to see if the door switch needs to be adjusted. I have had to replace the hood switch twice and now just leave it unplugged. Good luck.

It was the hood switch.
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Old 08-17-2014, 08:33 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uncledavid View Post

Thank you BIMMERFEST

No need to reregister if he is getting the 3 chirps. The chirps show the alarm is recognizing the remote, but one of the switches is not set.

The three chirps means one of the switches is not working. The most often problem is the hood or the radio switch. The hood switch is on the driver's side on the radiator support. The radio switch is behind the radio. Both can be unplugged to remove them from the system and to check which may be the problem. The doors and trunk also have switches. Some have said to lean on the door while using the remote to see if the door switch needs to be adjusted. I have had to replace the hood switch twice and now just leave it unplugged. Good luck.

It was the hood switch.
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Thanks! This is good for me to know too as my wife's ti triple chirps. I believe it is the hood contact. I just have to find the hood contact point from when I replaced the hood.

Appreciate you posting your fix. None of us really knew.
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1998 318ti Sport - "Cali" Schwartz II/Schwartz sport interior, Cali top
1998 318ti Sport - "Max" Schwartz II/Schwartz sport interior, S52
1997 318ti Sport - "Tiny" Schwartz II/Schwartz sport interior
1995 318ti Active - "Blanca" Alpineweib III/Schwartz leather interior

Other Current Bimmers: 2006 530i / 2000 2.3L Z3 / 1997 1.9L Z3 / 1999 540it

1997 318ti Sport - "Huera" - RIP
1995 318ti Active - RIP
1995 318ti Sport - "Tiny" Sold
1994 325i Sedan - "Jade" - Sold
1991 318ic - "Bert" - Sold
1985 635csi sold
1984 533i "Max" Sold
1984 318i sold

BMWCCA #160411

SUPPORT 318ti.org! CLICK THE LINK ABOVE!
Hosting a forum like this is not free. 318ti.org is one of the best BMW forums on the web because it is member supported, not vendor supported. The cost to become a Supporter is a nominal $10.00... A YEAR! DO IT! NOW!
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Old 08-17-2014, 09:11 PM   #9
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Nope, not the hood contact. I'll research further when I have a few moments.
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1998 318ti Sport - "Cali" Schwartz II/Schwartz sport interior, Cali top
1998 318ti Sport - "Max" Schwartz II/Schwartz sport interior, S52
1997 318ti Sport - "Tiny" Schwartz II/Schwartz sport interior
1995 318ti Active - "Blanca" Alpineweib III/Schwartz leather interior

Other Current Bimmers: 2006 530i / 2000 2.3L Z3 / 1997 1.9L Z3 / 1999 540it

1997 318ti Sport - "Huera" - RIP
1995 318ti Active - RIP
1995 318ti Sport - "Tiny" Sold
1994 325i Sedan - "Jade" - Sold
1991 318ic - "Bert" - Sold
1985 635csi sold
1984 533i "Max" Sold
1984 318i sold

BMWCCA #160411

SUPPORT 318ti.org! CLICK THE LINK ABOVE!
Hosting a forum like this is not free. 318ti.org is one of the best BMW forums on the web because it is member supported, not vendor supported. The cost to become a Supporter is a nominal $10.00... A YEAR! DO IT! NOW!
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