Looked at a base 5-speed '98, w/ a too-proud pricetag.

[ellcapitan]

Hello, first post from a potential buyer who's never owned a BMW before!

I recently drove three (3!) hours to look at a near-mint '98 Ti base, black on black pleather, no options whatsoever (I think)...right down to the plastic wheel covers. The car only has 52k miles on it, and feels like new, as far as I can tell...this was the first time I actually drove one. Aside from the battery, 4 brand new Dunlop SP Sports, the car does not appear to have a single aftermarket item on it (and, that's how I like it). I liked the car a lot, but I don't like the dealer's asking price...$8900. My research tells me that this car should be worth $6500. tops. Sorry, I don't have pics or a link (at this time).

I'm semi-serious about unloading two of my current cars and buying this one. What do you folks think should be done with the price here? When I explicitly asked the sales guy how serious he was about ever selling this car at their asking price, he did not seem overly receptive to negotiation...insisting that it'll sell at that price sooner or later. However, he also never came out and said that their price was "firm" either. I do love the car though, and I hate to say it, but I'd actually entertain throwing them $7000, based on the condition of this car, even knowing that it would be a "lost investment".

BTW, of the three cars I own, the two I want to sell are an '03 Acura TL-S, which I'm still slightly upsidedown on, and a '90 Miata in museum-like condition, which, of course, I own outright. (The third car--the keeper--is an '05 Forester.)

[RedDog]

Sounds like a rare find. As far as the salesmen, I use to be in the business and only a bad salesmen is willing to admit to being willing to cut the price before you have driven the car and sitting at his desk negotiating. I would have to think there is room. I would go back when you are ready to buy and first negotiate without giving him your real buying price. After he gives you a figure or two have some research showing the price around were you feel it should be to justify your offer. Do not show him this first since he will try to play it off as not being this car, a dealer, or so forth. Good luck and I hope you get the car, they are a ton of fun.

[ellcapitan]

So assuming that, with 52K miles, nothing has really been done to this car (I don't know this, but let's just assume it to be the case), other than the battery; the tires; and likely the front pads having already been done, what kind of maintenance might I expect to be typical with this car? What kind of stuff typically breaks first...stuff that might have already been addressed if it were a higher mileage car? I know about the deal with the headliner and the p/windows. I didn't see any signs of issues with either. I also just read about the 2 plastic (!) coolant connectors. I know this is one of the most reliable cars BMW has made, but will I likely be in for a surprise on maintenance costs, if what I've mostly dealt with so far has been Japanese cars?

[performanceisland]

take a look at my thread if you have a minute. this might interest you.

http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27415

[BMW_Hatchback]

Welcome to the site.

IMHO $7,000 is way too much for any Ti, especially a base with no options. Maybe if it was a few years ago. And they want your TL-s too? Pssh. For a mint Ti I wouldn't pay over 5k. I hope they offer some sort of warrenty or can give you a deal after the sale.

maybe $7,000 sounds like too much to me because I got my Mtechnic for $2,600 :-D

[b.u.ti-ful]

Sounds like a nice car, but yeah, prices are low right now and I don't think he'll get anywhere near that.

Keep in mind that a lot of people really do not even like the hatchback, so his group of buyers is even smaller.

If I were you, I would come up with the number you are willing to go for this car and offer that and leave it at that.

[BMW_Hatchback]

1+ ^

[ellcapitan]

Thanks for the advice. I too feel the same way about that price in this soft market, but the good thing is that I'm pretty sure the car won't be going anywhere while I think about it!

[ellcapitan]

Originally Posted by performanceisland

take a look at my thread if you have a minute. this might interest you.

http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27415

Yes, I've seen your ad before already, thank you. Your car must be a total ANIMAL! Looks beautiful too. But, I'm looking for something as close to stock/"unmolested" as possible. An M3-fighter is not really on my radar right now.

[ellcapitan]

At some point, here, I was expecting the question--"Is there anything at all wrong with the car?--to arise, given the nose-bleed asking price. I guess I'll just answer it preemtively, lol.

While I did not bring a technician with me, and I'm by no means a BMW expert/hobbyist, I've sucessfully bought (and recommended to others to buy) many used cars before, and I'm actually pretty good at it. I'm NOT the type of person who should only be buying new or CPO... This BMW was breathtakingly clean, but of course nothing that was made in 1998 and lives outside is going to be perfect in every way.

The first, and by far the biggest, obvious flaw was that the third brake light assembly was hanging by the wire. The dealer said that he had shattered the rear glass while jamming a dealer plate into the lower corner (seems wierd, I know...but whatever), and when he replaced the glass, he tried to reuse the brake light assembly. He tried to glue it up with some kind of black sticky trim adhesive-type stuff, but it won't hold. He said a new brake light assembly is on order (which, I guess, has the appropriate adhesive on it--?).

There is a slight gap at the top rear of the driver door panel, maybe 1/16 inch compared to the pax side. It does not cause any clearance issues, and is almost unnoticeable (except that I noticed it). It also does not appear that the door panel was removed and reinstalled incorrectly...although that may very well be the case, but I would think there would have been more of a gap. Again, the windows do operate correctly, as far as I can tell. Asisde from this, the interior is pretty much indistinguishable from that of a brand new car!

The left (outer) side left headlight housing is pushed in about 1/8 inch, relative to the corner light, compared to the right headlight. This appears to be slightly more than it being aimed that way. There is also a corresponding touchup spot on the pointy tip of the fender just above it, although the metal does not appear to be deformed at all. Not sure if this issue can be "adjusted" out, by normal aiming means. I did look very closely behind the housing, and I could not find any evidence of damage or deformation to the mounting points or tabs. The housing itself is not cracked or scratched at all, and does not appear to have been replaced, relative to the right housing. Again, not very noticeable...although I'm sure It'll be REAL noticeable at night, on a dark road!

There are a couple of key scratches on the driver's door, the largest about 2 inches long, and none of them through the clearcoat. Also a few light swirl marks here and there...it is a black car... There are no other scratches anywhere, no dings at all, and no evidence that any part of the car has ever been repainted (and I would know).

Under the hood, there is the typical yellowing/discoloration of the valve cover and intake metal, though not nearly as bad as some I've seen. I guess they used a coating that doesn't hold up well...you folks will know better than me. It has a non OEM-looking battery, that's orange in color (not an Optima), and some kind of sticker on the plastic radiator cover, that doesn't belong there. Otherwise, the compartment is real clean, and I didn't see any leaks. Also didn't see any signs of bent/straightened metal, or sloppy welds anywhere.

Under the car, I saw a little surface rust on the muffler seams...not sure how long that'll last, but otherwise, all looked clean.

The car drove straight, braked straight, there were no noises, drivetrain felt good, and everything (what little it has, lol) worked correctly.

[b.u.ti-ful]

I bet he broke the rear window doing this:

http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=25482

And the driver door panel looks weird because we all have bad window regulators and somebody put the glass back on track.

Normal stuff for ti's.

[ellcapitan]

Holy crapoli, you're probably right! I'm not sure why that spindly f@#k would lie about it though... I wouldn't have guessed it's that heavy either. It does make sense just looking at it though. Hmm, come to think of it--I'm having a hard time remembering now, but I do think I recall wondering if those struts were as strong as they should be. Maybe it was a totally failed attempt that he gave up on after the glass lacerations and the concussion! On the other hand, maybe that's why his head looks like it got pinched in a revolving door!

[tiFreak]

I know the 3rd brake light isn't glued on, I'm pretty sure it's attached with tabs at the front

[vjmvjmvjm]

If you're serious, get a pre-purchase inspection by an independent shop that knows BMW's. We can help you find a shop near the car, or go to www.bimrs.org This is much more important than all the warranties a seller can offer.

Also, can you find out and talk to the previous owner(s)?

Vic

[pmason718]

This is funny b/c I'm looking at the same car in NJ but I think they want to much for it. Here are the pics. I just started a thread asking if you guy thought that it was too much

http://www.riverautosales.net/newand...W-3Series.aspx