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Old 01-22-2010, 08:27 PM   #1
318_mzk2
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Default shifter carrier issue..

I jst recentyl did my m50 swap w gtrag trany...I've felt 2nd and 4th gear. Were a lil harder to shift into.. So I took of the shift boot and I see this********
The shifter its not centerd any ideass how to fix??
ill post picks up wen I get a change...phone is acting up
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Old 01-22-2010, 09:31 PM   #2
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Sounds like the detent springs are stuck.
Cheap part, expensive fix.
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Old 01-23-2010, 03:51 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 318_mzk2 View Post
I jst recentyl did my m50 swap w gtrag trany...I've felt 2nd and 4th gear. Were a lil harder to shift into.. So I took of the shift boot and I see this********
The shifter its not centerd any ideass how to fix??
ill post picks up wen I get a change...phone is acting up
Glad you started this thread because I just went through this same exercise last week. I got my M50 swap done too but I wasn't quite happy with the way the shifter turned out, so I had to fix it.



The ti shifter parts from the diagram #1 (SHIFTING ARM 25111221540) & #9 (BENT SELECTOR ROD 25111222230) wouldn't work since they were too long. #5 (SHIFT LEVER 25111221978) was too short (meaning from the ball part of the lever that fits into the plastic socket to the rod end of it that accepts the selector rod.
I tried e36 parts #1 (SHIFTING ARM 25111221541) #9 (STRAIGHT SELECTOR ROD 25111222664) and #5(Shift lever 25117527247) but that didn't completely work either. That combination resulted in the shifter not being able to engage 2nd and 4th gears. That was due to the #9 (STRAIGHT SELECTOR ROD 25111222664) being too short.

What I did to fix the problem is I went with a combo of parts that worked good for me. I went with a modified #9 (BENT SELECTOR ROD 25111222230) from the ti. The #1 (SHIFTING ARM 25111221541) from the e36 and a modified Ralco RZ Short Throw Shifter that fits e36.
The modification that I made to the BENT SELECTOR ROD is that i shortened it by sectioning out a 19.25mm length piece from straight tube portion of it. I also slid a larger (3/4") OD tube over the rod to provide extra reinforcement and welded that all together. The 3/4" tube acted as a splice or a doubler and it bridged the weld that I made to join the selector rod back together. Aligning this stuff was a little tricky to get it perfect and all welded back together, but this is something that can defiantly be done. The selector rod was much more rigid when I was finished with it that's for sure (not that it was a problem to begin with).
The modification that I made to the Ralco RZ Short Throw Shifter was that I disassembled it out of the bearing that it came with. I placed just the shifter lever on a couple of v blocks and put it on my shop press and straightened it out. That shift lever was made of pretty large diameter steel rod compared to the BMW shift lever that uses aluminum rod. The short throw shifter is very stout, and pretty good overall. I realize that this part is probably a Chinese brand but I don't care, it's decent quality and I didn't feel too guilty about bending it when I was done. If I had spent like $2-300.00 on some name brand shifter I would have probably had some reservations about putting it in my press and loading it up.
The fact that the location of #1 (SHIFTING ARM) isn't positioned exactly centered left to right didn't wind up being a problem for me at all. Once I took care of the shift lever and the selector rod everything worked good. However, I will say that the short shifter takes some getting used to, but I like it, it is just shifting with it is quite a bit different and somewhat notchy. I wouldn't say that bending the shift lever was 100% mandatory, but it was angled back too much for me before straightening.
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Old 01-23-2010, 05:45 AM   #4
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Going to be working on this Monday... I have all stock ti parts with the exception of the replacement of the stock #5 with #5 from a Mcoupe... Now the #9 from the ti was too long, preventing 1st, 3rd, or 5th gears from properly engaging, and the Mcoupe #5 has the pivot ball much further up the shaft than the stock ti. To remedy this we bent #9 into a gentle "v" shape until the shifter was properly centered. However, in the 5th gear position, you can feel the shifter touching the driveshaft... Going to attempt to add a little more bend to the #5 and straighten out #9 a bit to remedy this...

The Mcoupe shifter is very short throw, very notchy, but solid and crisp... you really know when you get into gear.
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Old 01-24-2010, 02:17 AM   #5
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i have all stock ti parts also...jst bought a short shifter to throw in wen i fix this problem ..jst tryn to figure out wtf is wrong...supostly evrything should line up..but NO ...gears go in but feel wierd at shifting.. this is whtat it looks like......shifter sits centerd ..only the shifter carrier is too far back

Last edited by 318_mzk2; 04-12-2010 at 02:17 AM.
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Old 01-24-2010, 05:29 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 318_mzk2 View Post
i have all stock ti parts also...jst bought a short shifter to throw in wen i fix this problem ..jst tryn to figure out wtf is wrong...supostly evrything should line up..but NO ...gears go in but feel wierd at shifting.. this is whtat it looks like......shifter sits centerd ..only the shifter carrier is too far back
You are using the stock shifting arm (#1 from the illustration) from the ti and it is too long. The 6cylinder motor moves the transmission toward the rear of the car by a little less than an inch. That is why your whole shifter moved aft and looks like it does in the pictures. Get yourself a shifting arm from the e36 (sedan or coupe) it will fix the location of it. The #1 (SHIFTING ARM 25111221541) from the e36 will move the shifter right back to the center of the cutout in the floor of your car. Just know that when you do that you will need to get creative with the selector rod. Good Luck!
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M50tu mostly stock, chip'd 413, AFE Intake. e36 M3 front brakes, e30 M3 rear calipers. e28 3.25 LSD + e30 axles. Custom stainless Magnaflow 2 in 1 out muffler.

R.I.P schwartz 1990 325is
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Old 02-01-2010, 06:32 AM   #7
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Well, no combination of subtle bends would eliminate the slector rod from hitting the driveshaft, so I installed a stock M3 shifter. This eliminated any rubbing but is a little long in the throw. I'll keep researching for a cure for the Mcoupe shifter... (and research Steve's suggestion!)
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Old 02-01-2010, 06:43 AM   #8
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I'm assuming you have stock tranny mounts?
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Old 02-01-2010, 06:50 AM   #9
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No, UUC Red mounts..
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:52 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolferj View Post
Well, no combination of subtle bends would eliminate the slector rod from hitting the driveshaft, so I installed a stock M3 shifter. This eliminated any rubbing but is a little long in the throw. I'll keep researching for a cure for the Mcoupe shifter... (and research Steve's suggestion!)
There is nothing unique about an M3 shifter as compared to any other e36 shifter, the 25117527247 PN is used in all e36's except the ti. I'm using an e36 short shifter and it has a much shorter throw over the stock e36, it is working good for me with the linkage that I have put together. This link is to the shifter that I'm using.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ralco...ht_1563wt_1165

This is a pretty good deal. It is sturdy, it comes with the shift knob and bearing assembly.
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M50tu mostly stock, chip'd 413, AFE Intake. e36 M3 front brakes, e30 M3 rear calipers. e28 3.25 LSD + e30 axles. Custom stainless Magnaflow 2 in 1 out muffler.

R.I.P schwartz 1990 325is
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Old 02-02-2010, 01:15 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolferj View Post
No, UUC Red mounts..
That might be the problem. You need what was called an effort reducing kit to raise the lever.
I had the same problem.
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Old 02-02-2010, 01:56 AM   #12
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So by upgrading to the red mounts..(I have AKG red mounts) ur sayin this might be the problem w the shifter?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996 328ti View Post
That might be the problem. You need what was called an effort reducing kit to raise the lever.
I had the same problem.

Last edited by 1996 328ti; 02-02-2010 at 02:15 AM. Reason: fixed quote tag
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Old 02-02-2010, 02:15 AM   #13
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Yes. I had some early UCC mounts and when I installed a UUC shifter the bottom hit the driveshaft in reverse and another gear.
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Old 02-02-2010, 02:33 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996 328ti View Post
That might be the problem. You need what was called an effort reducing kit to raise the lever.
I had the same problem.
Interesting...



This kit has an aluminum cup that sits atop the shifting arm. Looks like this would help alleviate drive shaft interference issues with a short throw shifter (like the MZ3 shift lever is). Wonder where you get one of these?
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M50tu mostly stock, chip'd 413, AFE Intake. e36 M3 front brakes, e30 M3 rear calipers. e28 3.25 LSD + e30 axles. Custom stainless Magnaflow 2 in 1 out muffler.

R.I.P schwartz 1990 325is
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Old 02-02-2010, 02:35 AM   #15
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I have everything stock ti parts and trans...idk if u saw the picks I posted.. The carries is like an inch bak. Not centered. Shifter is not rubbing against driveshatft or anything..*ll the gears go in good except,, 2 _ 4 feel like short throw

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996 328ti View Post
Yes. I had some early UCC mounts and when I installed a UUC shifter the bottom hit the driveshaft in reverse and another gear.
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