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The 318ti OBD-II engine...
10-19-2006 06:48 PM
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Old 01-20-2008, 08:38 AM   #16
Will'sBimmer
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thanks again for the help cali ti
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Old 01-22-2008, 07:51 PM   #17
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Ok So I purchased the heater valve control and it should be here by this weekend. I am going to install it this weekend hopefully without any problems. I will let everyone know if this fixes the problem.
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Old 01-26-2008, 06:37 PM   #18
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Before you go to that trouble, make sure that your have fully "burped" the system. Any air in there will inhibit movement of water and cut down on available heat from the heater core.

Just my 2 cents
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Old 01-26-2008, 06:54 PM   #19
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Yea me and my dad burped the system after the we changed the thermostat
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Old 02-09-2008, 06:07 PM   #20
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Ok so I have replaced the heater valve control. Well the new water valve is working and the old one was broken. Well after replacing this part I have noticed that the heat did get warmer but not hot. So now I am pissed off and ready to give up and just say F the heat and never have any ever. But my dad wants to try to look at the cables and see if it is a door problem. I mean this sucks because, first my thermostat was broken(got it fixed) then the heater valve was broken(got it fixed), and now the cable to the door is broken(havent got it fixed). Wow!!! so much was broken and had to be replaced, i am starting to get tired of this car.
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Old 02-09-2008, 09:04 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Will'sBeamer View Post
I know now that it is not my cable. When I turn it to heat it begins to get maybe like luke warm or just a few degrees below that but you can tell it is trying.
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I have now noticed that the cable for the turn knob must be broken. Because I can not get it to switch from cold to Hot. It just turns and nothing happens from there.I am hoping that someone on this forum could point me in the right direction about how I can get to this cable and possibly fix the situation. Is there a way I can just pull on the broken cable and get it to switch to Heat and not have to buy a new cable????? All and any help is welcome.
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my dad wants to try to look at the cables and see if it is a door problem. and now the cable to the door is broken(havent got it fixed).
Will, try to open the heater flap manually by removing the glove compartment and passenger's side kick panel. You should be able to see where the cable goes into the heater box. There's a yellow plastic tab on the end of the cable. Push and pull the cable by hand and see if you feel any resistance or hear the flap opening and closing. I'm guessing that the cable might be routed incorrectly. If there's too sharp of a bend, you'll get a lot of resistance. If there's no resistance at all, the cable is probably disconnected. Turn the knob while looking at the end of the cable and note the amount of movement. As mentioned in my previous post, my cable was routed wrong by whoever did the recall mod, which caused it to break the corner off of the heater box. I simply routed it around the outside of the steel tubular support frame under the dash and zip-tied the cable to the frame where it intersected. You might have the same problem, you might not, but it's worth checking out. Make sure that the yellow tab is held firmly in it's detent on the heater box.

If that doesn't help, turn the heat to full blast and hold the engine RPMs at about 2000 for a minute or so. If you don't feel a change in heat, I'd try burping the system again. It took me about 5 or 6 tries to get all of the air out of my system when I had the cooling system apart. It helps to park the car on a hill and have the heater blowing full blast and on full hot while bleeding the air out of the system. Good Luck man, don't give up!
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Old 02-09-2008, 10:18 PM   #22
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Ok. thanks cooljess. sounds like you know what you are talking about. i am going to get under the glovebox today and see what is up with that tab and the cable. i will be back on tonight to post the results. this sounds like my problem. because when i turn the knob i dont get really any resistance. must be the same problem u were having. thanks for the info.
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Old 02-10-2008, 02:26 AM   #23
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Cooljess:

I am getting frustrated too. I was very excited to read about the cable issue. I was sure that was my problem. Last weekend I took my glovebox out and could see the cable and it looked perfectly attached. I worked the temp dial both directions and watched the cable move. Worked perfect and on the hot side went to the point where the tab on the side of the box came up to its stop.

I am experienced with cars and know the signs of a bad thermostat, etc. I am getting center of the gauge on temp, so am comfortable with my thermo. It does take a little while to warm up, so might consider a hotter one if they make one.

That leaves me with either the heater control valve or air. I think I am OK on air in the system. I have checked several times and burped. That leaves the control valve? I guess the test is: Are both hoses hot??? I will have to check that. I hope not. I would like heat but money's tight right now. Also, when you say to park on the hill when burping I assume nose uphill???

Thanks.
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Old 02-11-2008, 11:26 PM   #24
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Ok. I found the red cable with the yellow piece on the end. It is not connected to the duct at all. So I know now this is my problem. But the things is I can not grab the cable with anything to pull it up from underneath the duct(where it has fallen). So is there a way that I could just open the flap/door by hand and when the weather gets warmer just switch it back???? Or is there something elsesay , the whole dashboard that I need to remove before I can get to it good enough to actually fix my problem? All advice and help is welcome. Thanks.
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Old 02-14-2008, 02:29 AM   #25
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Ok. So I figured this clip out and everything. It seems that my clip is not broken but is just not in place. I tried clipping it back in but it is really hard to do. And since I got it into a position to where I get some warmth. I am not worried about it anymore really. I think I am going to wait until it gets warm again before I try fooling with it. Spring is just around the corner anyways. But for bad news, my rear tire has gone flat. Upon taking it off to see the problem, I noticed the tire had a rip in it close to the inside side wall. Just right on top. I put the spare on and am going tomorrow to have the two rear tires changed and put the new ones I have on there.
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Old 02-15-2008, 12:07 AM   #26
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I put the spare on
mmmmmm...donuts
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Old 02-21-2008, 01:55 PM   #27
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Ok so I have replaced the heater valve control. Well the new water valve is working and the old one was broken.
How difficult was this to do? I've performed the mod to the cable myself and I change my own oil...do you all think I can tackle this problem myself?

I don't get heat at idle. I have to rev the engine at stop lights to get heat. I think my wife is about to swear off this car, so I've decided to prioritize this.
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Old 02-21-2008, 09:25 PM   #28
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Ok. so does your car's temp still hold in the middle? If you car's temp. is running normal (right in the middle) and you get some heat but it is not Hot like you want it than it is more than likely the heater valve control. You should be able to replace the part yourself. It is easy. Let me know if this is your problem and I will write a -How to Do- for you.
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Old 02-21-2008, 09:35 PM   #29
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I just checked my temp gauge is in the middle, it blows out warm air but not as hot as before. Where is heater valve control located? Do you got a pic to show me? thanks.
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Old 02-21-2008, 10:52 PM   #30
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Ok. so does your car's temp still hold in the middle? If you car's temp. is running normal (right in the middle) and you get some heat but it is not Hot like you want it than it is more than likely the heater valve control. You should be able to replace the part yourself. It is easy. Let me know if this is your problem and I will write a -How to Do- for you.
Yes my temp holds rock solid in the middle. I lose heat when at lower RPMs...I always get intense heat at 3,000+ RPMs. I have placed an order for a water valve (#5 in the diagram):
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...02&hg=64&fg=18

Hopefully this is what you mean.

Keep in mind that, on my car at least, I've already corrected the heater flap bowden cable problem...and replaced the thermostat...and the water pump...I think this water valve is the only part left to replace.
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