» Site Navigation | | » Recent Threads | | | | | | | | | 09-09-2007, 02:55 AM | | Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Minneapolis Posts: 1,587 | Cooling System Rebuild. PICS! Cooling System Overhaul 1996 318ti Auto / M44. Parts List • Radiator, 17111728905 - $128 (ebay - AC Imports) • OE Water Pump, 11510393338? - $79.82 (Tischer BMW) • 1 Gallon... | | | | Must admit, this thread helped a bunch! Did the cooling system rebuild as a project over a long period of time (just whenever I had a few minutes to wrench here and there) and it went without a hitch. Had to buy parts from multiple sources, but worked out beautifully. Didn't even have too much of a problem with the squid. Replaced my fuel injectors at the same time and when it came to start, took a while to get the fuel up there she ran like crap! Pulled the #1 spark plug boot and no change. After swapping plugs with cylinder 2 the problem was still there. Found that the injector wasn't pumping anything. Swapped with one of my old injectors (which weren't really bad in the first place) and perfect start and idle! Still amazes me that it's designed to have to remove the upper intake to get to the injectors! All in all, want to thank OP for starting this thread and those who have contributed! It helped a lot! | | | This thread helped me immensely. Still just turning a wrench when I have time. I need to contribute some photos as well. After the radiator was out I just took a step stool and climbed in the engine compartment for the rest of the dis-assembly and assembly. That really gives one great access without the aching back. Make sure that you have a tool chest within reach. I hated climbing out just for a wrench. I learned my lesson quick. I have the oddball car with the 180 degree bend hose at the heater valve on the firewall. In my opinion, if the plastic cooling fitting at the rear of the block brakes, tear it down and change both plastic parts. I have a chart of our major suppliers with the part numbers on the margin. I shopped knowing the vendor with lowest price. I did not purchase that way though. I looked at the quality of the vendor's part. It took some time but I sure learned a lot. I am going to flush the block now with white vinegar before putting my new radiator in. I will post how it came together. Thanks guys. : | | By GosuTi on 04-26-2014, 01:35 AM | So this thread helped me down to this last thing... After doing my full overhaul, my car won't start, no pressure in the fuel lines, and no clicking of the starter. I refuse to believe i have a relay blown on my EWS after ~6 days of sitting in my garage, perfectly fine. Does anyone know what could be the issue? it's appearing to me to be an EWSII issue, but I have no idea what could have triggered it, anyone know? | | | Sounds like a fuse blew. Seriously, pull em and check em. Front of car, should always have back up plugs anyhow. Mine went and didn't know it till pulled and replaced it. HTH | | By GosuTi on 04-28-2014, 06:46 AM | Quote: Originally Posted by aceprowler Sounds like a fuse blew. Seriously, pull em and check em. Front of car, should always have back up plugs anyhow. Mine went and didn't know it till pulled and replaced it. HTH | I checked my fuses. all of them seem to be in good shape.. i'm only getting a couple of relays clicking, though. i may grab a few new relays and replace them all, see if that's what's going on. | | | Double check your wiring from the squid. Including the starter! If the two smaller wires on the solenoid are reversed, you will see the same results. | | By GosuTi on 04-28-2014, 09:18 PM | Quote: Originally Posted by 740isport Double check your wiring from the squid. | I'll check it, appreciate it! | | | Just a general question when installing the intake manifold. Do I need to replace the gaskets on the intake manifold or can I use my originals? What material are the gaskets? I have gasket paper to make a new gasket, but won't be able to do so if they are metal gaskets. I ask since I want to tear the car apart tomorrow and can't wait for shipping new parts in since I need the car up and running ASAP. | | By GosuTi on 06-16-2014, 12:22 AM | Quote: Originally Posted by MINIz guy metal gaskets | If i recall correctly all of them were metal. EDIT: I think the lower gasket is the paper type gasket, and the uppers were metal. | Last edited by GosuTi; 06-16-2014 at 12:24 AM.. | | Does that mean they are reusable within reason? IE: if they aren't cracked or broken, I'll be fine putting them back on? | | By GosuTi on 06-16-2014, 01:06 AM | Quote: Originally Posted by MINIz guy Does that mean they are reusable within reason? IE: if they aren't cracked or broken, I'll be fine putting them back on? | General consensus is to Change everything you can on your way down. No reason to slack on a car, you don't want to have to go back through and redo it because one of your gaskets fail after you take it off. With that said, i would at least replace the lower gasket. That one was cooked on, on mine. but, waiting for parts, you might as well order the uppers too. they're not expensive. I changed everything down to my starter while i was doing my cooling system rebuild. | | | WHAT TO REPLACE I chose the replace all hoses and gaskets, jeez, it is only a couple of bucks vs. a future failure. You will have more confidence in your engine ! I am having trouble uploading pictures, all my file sizes are too large in some cases. I am working on that now. If you pull the fan & radiator you can use a short ladder and stand directly in front of the engine. This saved the ache in my back while giving a much view of the wires, hoses etc. I got some great photos I hope to upload soon. | | | Removing the "squid" has been the single most hardest thing I've had to do on a car. Getting the starter wires were a pain in the you-know-what. I labeled everything carefully and now have the squid tucked nicely to the side. It seems that my car has been leaking oil for a while before I fixed the valve cover gasket. It's oil soaked right near where my fuel injectors were. My injectors were as bad as the pictures too, so I decided to send them out and get them cleaned w/ new o-rings and everything. Since the car will be down for ~1 week, I'll have plenty of time to carefully figure out which coolant hoses I need to replace. I'm still doing this on a budget, so hopefully I need to replace none! | | | Quote: Originally Posted by MINIz guy Removing the "squid" has been the single most hardest thing I've had to do on a car. Getting the starter wires were a pain in the you-know-what. I labeled everything carefully and now have the squid tucked nicely to the side. It seems that my car has been leaking oil for a while before I fixed the valve cover gasket. It's oil soaked right near where my fuel injectors were. My injectors were as bad as the pictures too, so I decided to send them out and get them cleaned w/ new o-rings and everything. Since the car will be down for ~1 week, I'll have plenty of time to carefully figure out which coolant hoses I need to replace. I'm still doing this on a budget, so hopefully I need to replace none! | At a minimum, do the ones under the intake and back to the heater core! That way you only have the easily accessible to obtain. I purchased from autohausaz.com and bmaparts.com. Best prices I could find! | | By bmwme on 09-09-2014, 02:00 AM | Trying to follow this to get at my cracked rear coolant fitting. It irks me the engineers stopped thinking when they got to the "squid". Not having a disconnect is a major d in the b. So any suggestions on how to remove the squid so I can continue? | | | | Currently Active Users Viewing This Tutorial: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | | Tutorial Tools | | Display Modes | Linear Mode | Posting Rules | You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is On | | | |