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Old 09-09-2007, 02:55 AM  
CirrusSR22
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Minneapolis
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Default Cooling System Rebuild. PICS!

Cooling System Overhaul
1996 318ti Auto / M44.

Parts List

• Radiator, 17111728905 - $128 (ebay - AC Imports)
• OE Water Pump, 11510393338? - $79.82 (Tischer BMW)
• 1 Gallon...
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  #15  
By elfhearse on 09-28-2007, 09:48 PM
Default

Quote:
and the starter has two large positive cables, and two small control signal cables connected to it (grounds comes from the engine block)
tastade's comment above..... I had the two large hot cables (battery in and alternator out)...
and the two small black wires connect to the small fitting on the left side of the solenoid when facing engine.
I don't recall a third fitting on the starter solenoid but a few posts mention that..only two connection posts IIRC....
CONFIRM the 3rd terminal??????
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  #16  
By martin02 on 11-07-2007, 05:57 AM
Default

This is a great write-up! Thanks for putting it together.

I am in the process of doing the same project, but I'm having trouble getting the lower connector (the one on the block) to seal. What's the trick to get that fat O-ring to slide into the block?

Thanks!
Martin
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  #17  
By CirrusSR22 on 11-07-2007, 06:20 AM
Default

I used a little bit of white lithium grease on all the o-rings... Both connectors and the water pump. If I remember correctly, that block connector o-ring made the connector push itself out. Not sure if that makes sense, but the squishiness of the rubber doesn't make the connector stay in via friction. I believe I wiggled the connector so it was flush with the block, held it tightly against the block, then tightened the bolts to hold it in position.
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  #18  
By martin02 on 11-25-2007, 03:22 AM
Default My Cooling System Experience

First off, a big thanks to CirrusSR22 for the initial write-up, and to the others who posted as well. This was my first major project on my '98 ti and the information was invaluable.

Now that I've finished this project I thought I'd share my experience in the hope that it helps others. I initially decided to do this job because my thermostat was stuck open, but I also wanted replace the plastic connector pipes and radiator before something bad happened. My car has about 98K miles on it.

Tools
A good 1/4-inch socket set is essential. Gear wrenches are nice. And I had to make my own water pump puller too.

Head Connector Pipe
Yeah, this is a difficult little bugger. I was able to remove it myself, but installation was another matter--my hands are just too big. This is where a lovely and talented assistant can be big help. I talked my wife into laying on a board placed on top of the engine. She was able to reach behind the head get the connector bolts started--I pre-connected the hoses. If you've been waiting for reason to buy a set of metric Gear Wrenches, now's the time. A 12-mm gear wrench made it a lot easier to tighten the top bolt.

Water Pump
When I tried to use the extra bolt holes to remove the water pump, the top part of the flange broke and then I discovered that the head of the bolt wouldn't clear the water pump housing on the bottom of my pump. Damn, the water pump didn't want to give up without a fight. I ended up making my own puller to get the water pump out. I kinda enjoy challenges like this.

Broken water pump flange.


I welded some nuts on to a piece of 1/8 plate and cut a notch in the plate so fit over the pump shaft. I put some shims between the bolts and the timing chain cover so I wouldn't damage it. However,my first attempt at a puller wasn't strong enough.


I reinforced puller with a piece of 1 inch square tube. The pump popped right out.


Reassembly
I made some goofs that really cost me a lot of time.

I didn't use any lube on the connector O-rings; I should have. When I filled the engine with coolant, the block connector started leaking because the O-ring didn't seat. The 12 V battery cable messed with me too; I managed to put everything together the first time without connecting it to the starter. Doh! Oh-well, I was going to have to remove the lower intake anyway to deal with the leaking connector.

After the second reassembly, the engine wouldn't idle and was making a loud sucking noise near the injectors. I suspected that the air jacket system had a leak. So the upper half of the intake came back off and I replaced all the old hose (just like an earlier post in this thread). The hoses didn't seem to have any cracks, but replacing it helped.

This time the engine ran fine and there weren't any water leaks, but now both fuel fittings on the fuel rail were dripping. Yay! I got to take the upper intake off one more time. To get the fuel fittings tight enough, I had to put a cheater bar on my flare wrench.

The third time was the charm: The engine ran, there were no major coolant leaks, and I wasn't about to burn my car up, but I did have to tighten the radiator hoses a bit.

I'm glad I did this project; I now have heat--a good thing now that we've got daytime temps in the 20s and 30s. I've got a lot more confidence working on the intake side of the engine, and that gnarly squid doesn't scare me anymore.

Lessons Learned
  • Don't forget to hook up the 12 V cable at the starter.
  • Use lube on the O-rings, white lithium grease, silicone grease, whatever.
  • Get the fuel lines good and tight.
  • Get the hose clamps nice and tight too.

Cheers,
Martin
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  #19  
By cooljess76 on 12-03-2007, 06:43 PM
Default

My pump broke exactly like yours and it was siezed in the block. I used a pair of channel lock pliers to rip it out. Took about 30 seconds. I wouldn't advise threading anything into or prying against your block. It can crack just as easily as your water pump did.

I wouldn't hammer on it either, it's designed to slide straight in and out. If you knock it crooked, you're putting a lot of stress on the block.
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  #20  
By CirrusSR22 on 02-16-2008, 11:02 PM
Default

My car has been leaking a little bit of coolant ever since I did this. I just took my alternator off (it died ) and saw where my leak was coming from; the bigger plastic connector which attaches to the side of the block. It's the same one I had to force on, and the same one "martin02" had trouble with.

I'm not up for taking the whole intake manifold off, so I think I'm gonna clean the area and use some RTV silicone to seal it. Just a heads-up for those doing this project. You might want to add some sealant to both of the plastic connectors upon assembly.
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  #21  
By elfhearse on 02-21-2008, 02:01 AM
Default

Water pump FYI: make sure there is coolant added around the pump prior to starting the engine, after completing the project. If you run the new water pump dry you can damage the mechanical seal in the pump (which I think I did)
I've had a small coolant seep from the water pump and a spray pattern from it when the engines running. The water pump has a weep hole for coolant to seep out if the seal is leaking. The leak has slowed to almost nothing after the first 1,000 miles but I assume the mechanical seal was damaged during the initial startup. The Graf tech. manual says a small seep is normal in the beginning but I'm watching and waiting....crap, another $60
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  #22  
By pnchafin on 03-21-2008, 02:17 PM
Default Everyone read this first. Water pump removal

Everyone read this before you remove your water pump.

On the M44 water pump, you don't need to fab a tool or use a puller to remove the water pump.

If you will look at the pump (while installed), you will notice additional threaded bolt holes. Thank god for the germans and their thoughtfulness for maintainers.

1. Remove your mount bolts
2. Use your mount bolts in the extra threaded holes
(tighten them, they will push against the block, removing your water pump with much ease)

Your welcome.
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  #23  
By pnchafin on 03-21-2008, 03:12 PM
Default Block coolant line

If you happen to notice the block coolant line under the intake leaking, it would be highly recommended that you change it.

These things have been known to rot and wear over time and temp. I've seen picture after picture of these things falling apart, flange deterioration, nipple deterioration. I had this happen to me, everytime the engine temp rose above normal, the hose would blow off of it.

It's worth the money (expensive plastic) and effort to unbolt your intake and pull it back enough to replace it.

While you're at it, you might consider replacing the one on the back of the cylinder head. Both are a little hard to get to, especially on a Z3 however; well worth your time and piece of mind.
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  #24  
By PeteN95 on 03-24-2008, 05:51 AM
Default

Thanks for the great article, CirrusSR22, that is quite a job. I did mine today, about 11hrs. I found the rear fitting bolts were easier to get from below. The parts list was very handy too.
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  #25  
By bimmern00b on 04-07-2008, 11:57 PM
Default

I am in the middle of doing this since either a hose or the cylinder head connector gave out while I was on I-95 (good thing I was close to home!). But one thing that I have found out while removing my injectors is that the insulation on one of the injector wires has split. I want to replace it but I am having a hard time finding the part number on realoem. Does anyone here know what that part number is?
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  #26  
By 5litrarag on 04-14-2008, 05:55 PM
Default

ok... I too broke the top part of the water pump off when I tried to remove it with the mount bolts.

Anyone have any other ideas on how to remove this POS w/o making the problem worse? Otherwise its going to the local BMW wrench and so they can remove it and then I'll wheel it back out and finish in his parking lot.

Stupid flimsy @ss pump... I thought these cars were supposed to be better than my Mustangs, Nothing like this has ever happened on one of them.
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  #27  
By b.u.ti-ful on 04-14-2008, 06:54 PM
Default

cooljesse said to take a giant pliers and give it a little twist in some other thread awhile back.
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  #28  
By 5litrarag on 04-14-2008, 07:33 PM
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by b.u.ti-ful View Post
cooljesse said to take a giant pliers and give it a little twist in some other thread awhile back.
yeah I dont have a set of really big vice grip pliers though.... Guess I'll have to go buy some and spray it down with PB Blaster.
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  #29  
By elfhearse on 04-18-2008, 01:40 AM
Default

5litrarag

Did you try using the mounting bolts in other flange holes to lever out the pump, as in thread #23 ?? (pnchafin post)
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