318ti.org forum

Go Back   318ti.org forum > Technical, Maintenance and Modifications > Suspension

Notices

Suspension Springs, sway bars, shocks.

.
» Recent Threads
1999 M-Sport For Sale
12-31-2023 05:10 PM
Last post by Coop540iT
03-23-2024 06:39 PM
1 Replies, 98,911 Views
Once again 318ti owner...
03-20-2024 12:39 PM
Last post by two30grain
03-22-2024 02:04 PM
1 Replies, 61,818 Views
What brakes do I...
03-20-2024 03:27 PM
Last post by huirtera
03-20-2024 03:27 PM
0 Replies, 59,122 Views
Reply Share/Bookmark
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-02-2010, 03:22 AM   #1
Recon427
Senior Member
 
Recon427's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 181
iTrader: (1)
Default Help Diagnose Wheel noise

Alright, today I noticed that when turning to the right (only the right) I hear a subdued grumbling (?) noise coming from the right front wheel area.

The best way I can describe the noise would be like walking on an old wooden floor where the boards creak. But it is like a deep / quieter creaking noise. Like walking on an old dock? This is Not a whining or knocking noise.

I know my power steering fluid reservoir is leaking. So, I am going to fill it up tomorrow.

I just jacked up the car and wiggled the wheel in a "left-right" motion and I heard a ticking sound. When the wheel was wiggled in the "top-down" motion there was no noise.

After a few "left-right" motions the noise subsided and went away. I did the same thing to the other wheel and found only a light clicking noise when going "left-right." However, I was applying some force so much that I was slightly moving the whole car back and forth. So this could be normal.

Anyways, I took it for a quick spin and the noise is still there but is quieter now. Still only the front right wheel and only when I turn the wheel to the right. At a dead standstill I turn the wheel to the right and I hear the noise as well.

So, is this just lack of power steering fluid or am I looking at a tie rod issue? I don't think it is the wheel bearing since going the "top-down" motion amounted zero noise and the wheel was firm.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Recon427 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2010, 03:45 AM   #2
tiFreak
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: asdfasdf
Posts: 10,002
Vehicles
iTrader: (8)
Default

sounds like a tie rod to me, I can't tell for sure without seeing the car but that's definitely what it sounds like
tiFreak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2010, 03:53 AM   #3
Recon427
Senior Member
 
Recon427's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 181
iTrader: (1)
Default

Alright so replacing the tie rod:

Can I use the Karlyn tie rod assembly rather than the Lemfoerder/OEM ?

Furthermore is there a problem with using the 2 sided inner joint vs. the 5 sided inner joint?

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...Rod%20Assembly

I know, stupid questions but there is a price difference between the two and I don't want to get the Karlyn part with the 2 sided inner joint to find out it doesn't mesh with my existing OEM set up.
Recon427 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2010, 03:57 AM   #4
Recon427
Senior Member
 
Recon427's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 181
iTrader: (1)
Default

Reading the Bentley Repair manual my noise falls into the "Worn Wheel bearing" and like tiFreak mentioned "worn tie rod ends"

I don't think it is the wheel bearing...
Recon427 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2010, 04:01 AM   #5
tiFreak
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: asdfasdf
Posts: 10,002
Vehicles
iTrader: (8)
Default

if it was the wheel bearing it would have also moved when you shook it up and down

I have to check these almost daily when I do state inspections

I'm not sure about the different brands myself, if autohauzaz is willing to sell it though it can't be that much worse than OEM
tiFreak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2010, 04:04 AM   #6
Recon427
Senior Member
 
Recon427's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 181
iTrader: (1)
Default

I am reading the manual on replacing the tie rod assembly. A couple questions:

1) Should I replace both Left and Right Tie Rod assemblies or can I just replace the right?

2) The manual talks about a press tool. I take it using elbow grease and a normal set of wrenches won't do the job? Meaning, if I don't have the tool I should have a BMW shop do it or do you think a normal auto shop can do the work? I have heard too many horror stories about regular shops but I might as well ask your opinion.
Recon427 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2010, 04:51 AM   #7
tiFreak
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: asdfasdf
Posts: 10,002
Vehicles
iTrader: (8)
Default

1. technically, you're supposed to replace everything in pairs, I wouldn't worry about just doing one tie rod though

2. I think you would need the press to install the inner tie rod end, but chances are good you only need to do the outer tie rod end. looks like the link you have only lists complete assemblies though. according to realoem the part# for the right outer tie rod is 32111139314


here's how to tell if it's an inner or outer tie rod end, jack the car up and make absolutely sure it's secure, use jack stands, don't rely on the floor jack!
then stick your head underneath the car while someone else shakes the wheel side to side and watch the tie rod.

if you see play in the ball joint at the outside end of the tie rod, it's the outer.

if you see play on the inside end of the tie rod, it's the inner and I believe that's the one you need a press to install.


hope that helps, let me know if you need anymore info
tiFreak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2010, 04:58 AM   #8
Recon427
Senior Member
 
Recon427's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 181
iTrader: (1)
Default

Yeah, I gave the link for the whole assembly. Generally speaking I like to replace things completely if I do the work myself. I don't like doing things piece meal.

Anyways, I was reading some articles about this and some people mentioned CV joints as a problem. They described a clicking noise. Which is sort of what I experienced when I shook the wheel back and forth. But when driving it is a grumbling noise. lol.

I take it you ruled that idea out already though...

Anyways, I will look at it this weekend post back with the final verdict...
Recon427 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2010, 05:02 AM   #9
tiFreak
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: asdfasdf
Posts: 10,002
Vehicles
iTrader: (8)
Default

CV joints are in the axles of a FWD car, definitely not the problem
tiFreak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2010, 05:14 AM   #10
spidertri
Senior Member
 
spidertri's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Elizabeth City, NC
Posts: 3,877
Vehicles
iTrader: (9)
Default

I just did inner and outer tie rods a couple of weeks ago. I went with the lemfoerder complete assemblies. The press is to break the outer tie rod free from the kingpin, the inner tie rod requires a thin 32mm wrench. I purchased one at a local bike shop for $15.

You can use a pickle fork for the outer tie rod end or a pitman arm puller. I used a small puller and it took no time at all.

If you do the inner tie rods make sure to get new lock plates. The job is incredibly straight forward and with the right tools it is incredibly easy to do.

Make sure you measure the length and set the new tie rods to that and then drive it immediately to an alignment shop. I used a couple of boards and two tape measures to make sure my toe wasn't completely ridiculous but it was still off.
__________________
~Dave~

98 328ti Morea Grun slicktop
11 128i space gray slicktop
13 JGC WK2 Deep Cherry

Search | RealOEM
spidertri is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2010, 01:24 PM   #11
Recon427
Senior Member
 
Recon427's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 181
iTrader: (1)
Default

Alright, I purchased the OEM lemforder tie rod assemblies (outer and inner) and I purchased the control arm bushings since those need to be replaced soon. Grand total of $115.00 from autohausaz.com

I find it hilarious that a tie rod goes out on me and the "Senior BMW mechanic" who did a "multi-point" inspection found nothing wrong apart from the control arm bushings.

Perhaps that is who dealerships work? They tell you one thing is wrong so that when you go to them to fix it, they then tell you a slew of other things is wrong and you have a bill that is 5x bigger than what was originally quoted?
Recon427 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2010, 02:02 PM   #12
colacan
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: chicago
Posts: 42
iTrader: (0)
Default

I have this exact same problem lol except to the left im going to have a shop look at it before I start guessing
colacan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2010, 06:13 PM   #13
Recon427
Senior Member
 
Recon427's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 181
iTrader: (1)
Default

Yeah, either way I need to have the bushings replaced. That calls for an alignment. So, I might as well replace the tie rods (inner/outer) as well and pay for only one alignment rather than doing things piece meal. At $110 per alignment things add up.

Lol, the kicker is I will be leaving for the UK this summer and will be forced to sell the car....so who ever is going to buy it from me will have a lot of the tedious 118,000 mile maintenance items completed. They will have a lot of fun driving this car instead... but I love to work on this car and I learn a great deal as well. So win win situation..
Recon427 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2010, 06:49 PM   #14
Recon427
Senior Member
 
Recon427's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 181
iTrader: (1)
Default

OK..... I jacked up the car:

This is the problem:

Right wheel ball joint has excessive play.

So; in addition to replacing the tie rods and control arm bushings, I will replace the ball joint. And then do the front wheel alignment.


Hope this helps anybody with a similar issue.
Recon427 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2010, 07:40 PM   #15
spidertri
Senior Member
 
spidertri's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Elizabeth City, NC
Posts: 3,877
Vehicles
iTrader: (9)
Default

Do the tie rod assemblies you bought come with new lockplates? Make sure to get them.
__________________
~Dave~

98 328ti Morea Grun slicktop
11 128i space gray slicktop
13 JGC WK2 Deep Cherry

Search | RealOEM
spidertri is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Rear wheel bearing noise - caused by bent rim? jtbeemer Misc 2 03-07-2009 05:40 PM
Wheel is making noise when I turn NCRaleighBMW318Ti Wheels and Tires 10 11-06-2007 09:28 PM
Front wheel bearing noise. rholbrook Suspension 0 07-07-2007 08:18 PM
Steering Wheel Noise 2ndBimmer Maintenance 16 12-06-2006 12:03 AM
Steering Wheel Noise 2ndBimmer Suspension 1 01-01-1970 02:37 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 07:32 PM.


.
Powered by site supporters
vBulletin Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©1999 - 2024, 318ti.org
© vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2
[page compression: 119.02 k/141.93 k (16.14%)]

318ti.org does not warrant or assume any legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness, or usefulness of any information or products discussed.