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Old 02-11-2010, 06:13 AM   #16
tiFreak
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Vermont's been surprisingly snow-free for the past couple days
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Old 05-13-2010, 01:18 AM   #17
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Talking ABS Fixed - L Front Sensor

So, to wrap this up, I fixed it.

As I had posted, for several years, I had the ABS & ASC lights in my '98 coming on after driving in heavy snow, and staying on a few hours to a few days (of course, with no ABS or ASC function). This winter, they came on and never went off.

I tried hosing down the wheels and the plugs, removing and cleaning the plugs, and protecting them with Vaseline, but nothing worked.

A couple of weeks ago, I finally got a chance, and went around with an ohmmeter pulling the plugs and testing the continuity. I tried to test from the ABS controller (to check the entire length of the wire runs), but I couldn't get it out from its cozy spot behind the glove compartment, so I left it there, rather than risk breaking it.

I had to make little test wires for the meter, because it isn't possible to fit two meter probes into the deep ABS plugs at once. I took 18ga wire, stripped the ends long, and wrapped them into little springs - one end around the test probe, the other just hanging out there, to be connected to the sensor plugs (see photos).

I tried wrapping the sensor ends around a piece of 18ga wire, but that proved to be too tight a fit on the pins, so next I used the test probe ends at a guide for both ends of the wire, which was a bit big, but worked. I think about 16ga would be the right size. With the wire wrapped around the test probes, I took the other end and, carefully, fished each piece down into the ABS plug, fitting it over each of the tiny protruding prongs. I needed to do a little wiggling to get the contact right, but I could in each case. (Wiggle to much one way - no contact. Wiggle too much the other way - the wires touch each other).

When I finally got the contacts right, I found that the Left Front sensor had no continuity (∞ Ohms), the Right Front had 1.080KΩ, and the rears had about 1.008KΩ and 1.006KΩ (as I describe here).
Note that I measured the fronts between the two pins that would be the eyes of a face ( °.° ), not the one that would be the nose, which is just a ground

I tried to remove the bad sensor, but found it had become a permanent part of the spindle - I removed the Allen screw, then put a pair of Vise-Grips on the screw ear, and tried to gently rotate the sensor from side to side in the bore, using lots of top-notch penetrating oil (KROIL). All I did was break off the ear after about five minutes of twisting, leaving the stub of the sensor that was impossible to get a good grip on.

So, I poked around on the interwebs, ordered a new sensor, a new hub nut, and a new hub cover from Pelican ($54 for an OEM ATE sensor), and waited a few days.

When I first got the sensor, I wanted to see whether it fixed the problem with the minimum of work, so I reached behind the tire, disconnected the old sensor and plugged in the new one, then started the car. No change - the same two lights stayed on. I turned it off and started it a couple more times, but that didn't do it.

Today, I got a chance to actually work on the car.
I pulled the wheel, caliper, carrier, rotor, and hub. The inner race stayed on the spindle, as it tends to. I covered it with a rag to keep some of the crap off of it.
With the hub off, you can clearly see the ABS sensor poking straight through from the back side. There was no need to remove the sheet metal shrouds, as they weren't in the way. I tried hitting the end of the sensor with a sledgehammer, which caused it to mushroom and disintegrate. I broke off all the protruding end stuff and tried again, but all I was doing was mushrooming the end. I reached in with a hacksaw blade, and cut right through the body of the sensor, right against the surface of the spindle, inside the gap between the spindle and the inner brake splash guard (didn't take a picture, but you'll know it when you see it). The sensor cut like butter, and the end came right out, leaving the stuck portion inside the spindle hole. I tried knocking this out with a large pin punch, but all that did was to punch right through the other side without moving the sensor, so I grabbed a 3/8" extension and hit it with that, and it popped right out after a couple of good whacks. The inside of the bore was a bit rusty, but not terrible. I hit it with the tiny sanding drum on a Moto-Tool, and it looked nice. I put some Nevr-Seize on the appropriate portion of the new sensor and gently but firmly worked it into the hole, screwed it down (bottomed it by hand first), then cleaned and put everything else together (new hub nut torqued to 214 ft/lbs and staked).

When I started it up, as before, I had both lights. I backed out of the driveway (about 40 feet), drove off, and the lights went off after about 10 more feet, and haven't come back on .

So, with any luck, I've fixed it.

Now, about that airbag light...
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Last edited by Eric; 11-06-2012 at 09:01 PM.
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Old 06-11-2010, 09:09 PM   #18
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I have a problem with the ABS from time to time but with error which says something related to ABS pump relay. The problem is that i don't have the two relays for ABS in the fuse box and I don't know where to find them.
I know that you guys in US have those relays in fuse box marked with ABS, but mine are not there. Someone says that since my car production date is between series E36 and E46 i may have the ABS unit from E46. Do you know anything about this ?
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Old 06-12-2010, 03:33 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christache View Post
Someone says that since my car production date is between series E36 and E46 i may have the ABS unit from E46. Do you know anything about this ?
No.

Not a thing.

Sorry, but I can only barely figure out my own car.
BMW seems to have been a lot more organized in the 1990's than they were in the 1950's and '60's. Back in the old days, all of the German makers would transition between models with a few vehicles that shared components they hadn't been intended to share, because either they had to use up the old stock, or they hadn't quite finished the new design yet.
So far as I know, that shouldn't have happened between the E36 and E46, but, once again, I am NOT an authority on this.

I'd say, if you want to look for phantom relays, try behind the glove compartment and under the dash on the driver's side (either up from the floor, or down through the hole where the cluster mounts). There are already a number of relays there, and there is room for a few more.

Good luck!

- Eric
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Old 08-14-2011, 09:40 AM   #20
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Hello Eric,

My 96 318IC have had ABS light on for a long time. I checked and cleaned all 4 sensors this morning. Checked resistance and measure voltage also by spinning the wheel, but ABS light is still on. Doesn't look like its the sensors. I think I checked the relays in the past, which was found good also. What else should I be looking? Appreciate any help/suggestion. Thanks
Alex
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Old 08-14-2011, 02:03 PM   #21
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Hi Alex.

If you've checked the resistance of all the sensors and gotten roughly the same value for each one, I really don't have any good ideas. It could be anywhere in the system.

It may be time to bite the bullet and go down to the dealer (or maybe to an independent shop with a top-of-the-line scanner) and have them put it on their computer - it should give you the answer.

- Eric
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Old 07-15-2014, 10:36 PM   #22
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Default asc

I have a 97 318 ti and just the asc light comes on.
ABS always works.
I would say if abs light comes on, bleed brake system
Mine only comes on after some driving , I think it is a sensor issue
Any ideas?
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Old 07-15-2014, 11:46 PM   #23
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Interesting problem.

As far as I know, the ABS, ASC, and all of that other stuff, requires all sensors to be functioning properly in order to work, so if you've got no ABS light (and the ABS light DOES go on when you first turn on the key), then you should be able to ASSume that all sensors and related wires and connectors are good.

In that case, you end up looking for things that are ASC-only, which I think is pretty much just the ASC lockout button and (if I'm not mistaken) the ASC computer.

Please keep us posted on this.

- Eric
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Old 07-16-2014, 07:51 PM   #24
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Default ASC

Saw another post and they mentioned the asc throttle cable adjust.
Played with this a little and so far nothing.
Maybe that switch has an issue.
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Old 07-17-2014, 07:37 PM   #25
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So I losened the asc throttle cable a few turns, asc light stay off a while now.
And I thought of something else, My front tires are different than rears.
Could be diff diameters

Also had slow leak in rear tire, got it fixed, asc stays off much longer now.
Too bad we cannot see raw data that asc and abs sees so we could diag this better.


Will keep you updated
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:54 PM   #26
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Default Great asc info

sounds like my issue

found on http://www.bba-reman.com/content.asp...w_abs_problems

ABS WARNING LIGHT ON

MODELS AFFECTED:

3 series (E36) and Z3 produced up to 5/96

FAULT:

The ABS warning lamp is on in the instrument cluster, and fault code 145 (pump inoperable) stored in the ABS control module memory.

CAUSE:

Faulty relays produced prior to may 1996.

SOLUTION:

Use the DIS tester to confirm that fault code 145 is set in the ABS control unit. Work through test instructions in DIS confirm that the fault is not caused by any other components. Then replace the gray ABS pump motor relay, witch is located in the power distribution box, rear left side of engine compartment.


ASC AND/OR ABS WARNING LAMP ON

MODELS AFFECTED:

3 series (E 46), vehicles produced up to 9/98

FAULT:

The ASC and/or ABS warning lamps are on, with fault code 31 or 41(rear wheel speed sensor) set in memory.

CAUSE:

Faulty rear wheel speed sensor.

SOLUTION:

Replace the wheel speed sensor with a sensor with production date 22/08 or later.



ABS, ASC, AND ASC+T MALFUNCTION

MODELS AFFECTED:

All models equipped with ABS,ASC OR ASC+T

FAULT:

Any of the ABS ASC and ASC+T systems inoperative, intermittently inoperative, or illuminating the warning lamp.

CAUSE:

All BMW'S with slip control systems use 4 wheel speed sensors which monitor each wheels speed of rotation with a high accuracy. The system control unit uses this information to calculate a vehicle speed. In this way it detects wheel speed variation. If the inputs vary from each other by a certain amount, the control unit is not able to do the calculation reliably (plausibility fault) and takes its self off-line as a safety precaution(fail-safe).This can be because the wheels and tires are non-approved partsand therefore do not agree with the system.

SOLUTION:

Make sure the vehicle is fitted with BMW approved wheels and tires. Then do further diagnostic testing to check if fault is resolved.

ABS REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR

MODELS AFFECTED:

3series (E36)- 1992 models

FAULT:

After diagnosis of a ABS system using the BMW service tester the following faults may be set:
- 84 or 88 wheel speed sensor missing or defective, left rear/right rear.
- 100 or 104 wheel speed signal not plausible, left rear/right rear.

CAUSE:

The ABS wheel speed sensor at either rear wheel have poor solder connections at the coil connections.

SOLUTION:

The solder connections were improved in production from date code 0811(81st day 1991). If the date code of the failed sensor is 0801 or lower, both rear wheel speed sensors need replacing.
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Old 09-18-2014, 04:35 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric View Post
Interesting problem.

As far as I know, the ABS, ASC, and all of that other stuff, requires all sensors to be functioning properly in order to work, so if you've got no ABS light (and the ABS light DOES go on when you first turn on the key), then you should be able to ASSume that all sensors and related wires and connectors are good.

In that case, you end up looking for things that are ASC-only, which I think is pretty much just the ASC lockout button and (if I'm not mistaken) the ASC computer.

Please keep us posted on this.

- Eric

Going to get rear wheel speed sensor before the winter, hope that
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