 » Site Navigation | | | | » Recent Threads | 1999 M3 Swap 09-07-2023 10:10 PM 05-02-2024 08:18 PM 6 Replies, 385,359 Views | |  |  |  |  07-08-2010, 08:18 PM | #1 | | Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: san jose, ca Posts: 15 |  Cut? weld? Bend? what should I do?
If you saw my other post, you should know that I crashed. I almost ready to rebuild. But I'm not sure on what I should do with this. Should I cut it, then weld it back? Should I get a new one and weld that one? Should I Just bend it back and make it good enough? What are your thoughts?  |  |  | | 07-26-2010, 01:53 AM | #2 | | Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Westchester, NY Posts: 234 |
I would take that to a body shop and have them repair that section and paint it...bring it back home and reassemble the rest. that way its straight and structurally sound. They can make sure everything is where its supposed to be. | | | | | 07-26-2010, 03:29 AM | #3 | | Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Portland Or Posts: 2,666 |
+1 That needs to be on a frame machine and stretch the car square then repair the support. You could buy the section from a yard, and do it yourself but I'd have a frame shop make sure the body is straight first!
Dave __________________
Dave - PDX
1995 318ti - Active Black and Tan.
2005 330xi - Mtech 1 - 6spd - Orient Blue/Black | | | | | 07-26-2010, 04:05 AM | #4 | | Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: norcal - 94590 Posts: 3,186 |
Take that exact picture to a body shop and get two quotes from them - One to fix it and one to replace it with a salvaged piece (remember, you can get one from a sedan, too).
You could probably straighten it out yourself, but it most likely won't be perfect, just close. The bend near the fender would be a structural weak point, too. __________________ James 95 active w/leather interior and sport interior conversion, Vaders, full M-Tech exterior conversion. Now m50 swapped* Eibach sway bars, D2 Coilovers, Depo's w/AE's, blacked-out sides and grills, LeatherZ console and door armrests, 1 series starter button mod, and custom finished Style 5's <--- in this color! Named "Roddy":  *M50 6 cyl. swap with fan delete, S50 cams and chip, AFE stage 2 intake, M3 clutch and 11.5 lb Fidanza flywheel, 3.15LSD, battery relocated to rear and complete custom exhaust. Sweet!  97 318ti sport, Alaska Blue, Contours, coilovers, Dove Vaders and custom black/grey interior named "Max" 95 318ti Active in Cosmos, S50 swap in progress... named "Pit" SUPPORT 318ti.org! CLICK THE LINK ABOVE! Hosting a forum like this is not free. 318ti.org is one of the best BMW forums on the web because it is member supported, not vendor supported. The cost to become a Supporter is a nominal $10.00... A YEAR! DO IT! NOW! | | | | | 07-26-2010, 04:16 PM | #5 | | Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Westchester, NY Posts: 234 |
Just wanted to add; probably not talking about a lot of money relative to whats being done here. I cant imagine that costing more than a few hundred..$5-700 based on having the shop do just the bare minimum to get it straight.
I would certainly do it if it were mine (if you were to be asking that question).
As the others have said go for sedan parts if you can get them used it will hold costs down. | | | | | 07-26-2010, 05:19 PM | #6 | | Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Tulsa, OK Posts: 252 |
no, do not attempt to straighten that, your frame rail is toast. you need a new one or a right front quarter cut from a salvage, that is some major repair. i work for a body shop and see this all day long. u will have to pull the engine to drill out and replace that frame rail (which will probably come in 2 to 3 different pieces to all be welded togeather), it will have to be set up on a frame machine and measured with a lazer guided measurer while doing this. please don't chose a cheap fix over a safe fix __________________ 1996 318ti base: m44, 5 spd, lsd - 18x8 bremmer kraft wheels w/sumitumo tires 225/40R18 & bmw locking lug studs, 10mm spacers in rear, halo headlights, cold air intake, koni str.t struts and shocks w/mounts, h&r sport springs, serp belts, control arm & tie rod kits, front sway bar links, JVC kd-x50bt headunit w/ipod hook up in the glove box, alpine sps-500(front and rear), jl audio 10" powerwedge max, jl audio 250.1 amp, motor mounts, fuel filter, passenger side window motor, drivers lower window run, muffler hanger kit, various interior bulbs, left door striker/ajar switch, lower hood latches, changed from gray vinal to black leather shift and parking brake boots, m3 weighted shift knob, ngk-r spark plugs, magnecor spark plug wires(blue),new cabin micro-filters,new headliner & a-pillar mouldings, 5w20 synth-blend oil and filter, BG Ultra Guard syn. rear end fluid & ls additive, BG Syncro Shift II syn. manual trans fluids, stainless steel braided brake lines and dot 4 fluid, extra brake light mod, new p/s reservoir and rubber hoses
need to do - fix door panels, paint job, MORE MONEY!!  | | | | | 07-28-2010, 04:19 AM | #7 | | Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: the east Posts: 11 |
that looks like it can be benched pretty easily. if you bring it to a body shop, make sure you bring all the sheetmetal you have for it so it can be lined up properly. | | | | | 07-28-2010, 04:23 AM | #8 | | Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: 43609 Posts: 3,425 |
Buying a brand new frame rail isnt that expensive. bmw sells them in pieces all the way back to the firewall. __________________ 1995 Hellrot Clubsport 318ti -Gone 1996 Schwartz II Sport 357ti - 5.7L V8 LS1/6 1997 Moregrun Metallic 318ti - Gone
1998 Schwartz II sport 318ti - M50TUB25/5 | | | | | 07-29-2010, 11:48 PM | #9 | | Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: san jose, ca Posts: 15 |
Just giving a heads up.
Its been at the shop and the frame is now straight. It will be back on the road in a few days. | | | | | 07-29-2010, 11:52 PM | #10 | | Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: san jose, ca Posts: 15 |
Quote: Originally Posted by ti-billy  no, do not attempt to straighten that, your frame rail is toast. you need a new one or a right front quarter cut from a salvage, that is some major repair. i work for a body shop and see this all day long. u will have to pull the engine to drill out and replace that frame rail (which will probably come in 2 to 3 different pieces to all be welded togeather), it will have to be set up on a frame machine and measured with a lazer guided measurer while doing this. please don't chose a cheap fix over a safe fix | Pulling the engine was not involved. Nor was cutting... | | | | | 07-30-2010, 03:16 AM | #11 | | Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Westchester, NY Posts: 234 |
NICE! Full repair or piece meal? did you have them do the straightening and you filled in the blanks or...? | | | | | 07-30-2010, 08:05 PM | #12 | | Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: san jose, ca Posts: 15 |
Quote: Originally Posted by ayton NICE! Full repair or piece meal? did you have them do the straightening and you filled in the blanks or...? | Full repair. They bent the frame back. it looks perfect. Paint later this week then pictures. | | | | | 08-09-2010, 05:41 PM | #13 | | Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: united states Posts: 119 |
If you don't mind me asking what did they quote and what was the final amt? I have the same problem only I bent mine reasonably back straight but it could use some tlc to be straight. | | | | | 09-15-2010, 12:18 AM | #14 | | Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: san jose, ca Posts: 15 |
Quote: Originally Posted by spykejones If you don't mind me asking what did they quote and what was the final amt? I have the same problem only I bent mine reasonably back straight but it could use some tlc to be straight. | Sorry for the late response. I am never on here. I am usually on BimmerFourms but thats another story... They quoted me 1000 even. | | | | | 09-15-2010, 12:32 AM | #15 | | Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: united states Posts: 119 |
No prob. Yeah we bent mine back but I still need to get it straightened the rest of the way. Like to have seen finished product. | | | | |
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