» Site Navigation | | » Recent Threads | | | | | | | 06-15-2010, 05:32 PM | #1 | Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Florida - Tampa Posts: 92 | Persistant rattle / clanking over rough road/ ruts Replaced front control surfaces:sway bar links, control arms, lollipops, tie rods. All parts Meyle upgraded heavy duty. Replaced wheels because tie rod ends are thicker than stock originals. New wheels: Z3 type 35's 225-50-R16 I have triple checked my work, had a proper alignment. Shocks are stock and in good working order. Still, I get this damn rattle - like the suspension before the upgrades ( it was really shot). Oh and the steering is really twitchy until speed and even then, a bump or rut can be very unsettling. Has anybody encountered this? I think I'm pulling at two problems here - never the less... ?????????????????? Thanks in advance. | | | 06-15-2010, 10:24 PM | #2 | Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: MD/PA/DC Posts: 1,629 | Might be the converter shield or strut mounts? As for the alignment..8 out of 10 shops that I've taken cars to screw it up. Most will only check and adjust toe, and not bother to tell you if anything else is wrong-unless they can sell you a bunch of parts. __________________ No more ti. | | | 06-15-2010, 11:16 PM | #3 | Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Tulsa, OK Posts: 252 | @whiplash71 = i have the same problem, i have replaced all struts and mounts, control arms, bushings, endlinks, inner & outer tie rods and i still have the same damn annoying rattle (sounds like right front-passenger-side), the only thing i can think of that's left is the steering intermediate shaft <----maybe, anyone got any ideas or suggestions __________________ 1996 318ti base: m44, 5 spd, lsd - 18x8 bremmer kraft wheels w/sumitumo tires 225/40R18 & bmw locking lug studs, 10mm spacers in rear, halo headlights, cold air intake, koni str.t struts and shocks w/mounts, h&r sport springs, serp belts, control arm & tie rod kits, front sway bar links, JVC kd-x50bt headunit w/ipod hook up in the glove box, alpine sps-500(front and rear), jl audio 10" powerwedge max, jl audio 250.1 amp, motor mounts, fuel filter, passenger side window motor, drivers lower window run, muffler hanger kit, various interior bulbs, left door striker/ajar switch, lower hood latches, changed from gray vinal to black leather shift and parking brake boots, m3 weighted shift knob, ngk-r spark plugs, magnecor spark plug wires(blue),new cabin micro-filters,new headliner & a-pillar mouldings, 5w20 synth-blend oil and filter, BG Ultra Guard syn. rear end fluid & ls additive, BG Syncro Shift II syn. manual trans fluids, stainless steel braided brake lines and dot 4 fluid, extra brake light mod, new p/s reservoir and rubber hoses need to do - fix door panels, paint job, MORE MONEY!! | | | 06-15-2010, 11:52 PM | #4 | Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Tulsa, OK Posts: 252 | ok, i got home from work and poped the hood on the ole ti and started inspecting,pulling,pushing,feeling around everywhere, strut towers not cracked, all else was fine....then i seen it, my right front engine mount is destroyed, it actually came apart and the bracket is just sitting on top of the insulator now....guess it's time for engine mounts, it sounded like the suspension because the engine and control arms and steering rack are mounted to the subframe, hopes this helps __________________ 1996 318ti base: m44, 5 spd, lsd - 18x8 bremmer kraft wheels w/sumitumo tires 225/40R18 & bmw locking lug studs, 10mm spacers in rear, halo headlights, cold air intake, koni str.t struts and shocks w/mounts, h&r sport springs, serp belts, control arm & tie rod kits, front sway bar links, JVC kd-x50bt headunit w/ipod hook up in the glove box, alpine sps-500(front and rear), jl audio 10" powerwedge max, jl audio 250.1 amp, motor mounts, fuel filter, passenger side window motor, drivers lower window run, muffler hanger kit, various interior bulbs, left door striker/ajar switch, lower hood latches, changed from gray vinal to black leather shift and parking brake boots, m3 weighted shift knob, ngk-r spark plugs, magnecor spark plug wires(blue),new cabin micro-filters,new headliner & a-pillar mouldings, 5w20 synth-blend oil and filter, BG Ultra Guard syn. rear end fluid & ls additive, BG Syncro Shift II syn. manual trans fluids, stainless steel braided brake lines and dot 4 fluid, extra brake light mod, new p/s reservoir and rubber hoses need to do - fix door panels, paint job, MORE MONEY!! | | | 06-16-2010, 02:30 AM | #5 | Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Florida - Tampa Posts: 92 | Quote: Originally Posted by ti-billy ok, i got home from work and poped the hood on the ole ti and started inspecting,pulling,pushing,feeling around everywhere, strut towers not cracked, all else was fine....then i seen it, my right front engine mount is destroyed, it actually came apart and the bracket is just sitting on top of the insulator now....guess it's time for engine mounts, it sounded like the suspension because the engine and control arms and steering rack are mounted to the subframe, hopes this helps | Ok! - I'll check the motor mounts in the morning - hopefully that nails it. Thanks | | | 06-16-2010, 04:15 PM | #6 | Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Tulsa, OK Posts: 252 | ok, i ordered a set of motor mounts last night off ebay ($71 for the pair w/shipping), they should be here by friday and ill try to install them this weekend, i'll let u know what happens __________________ 1996 318ti base: m44, 5 spd, lsd - 18x8 bremmer kraft wheels w/sumitumo tires 225/40R18 & bmw locking lug studs, 10mm spacers in rear, halo headlights, cold air intake, koni str.t struts and shocks w/mounts, h&r sport springs, serp belts, control arm & tie rod kits, front sway bar links, JVC kd-x50bt headunit w/ipod hook up in the glove box, alpine sps-500(front and rear), jl audio 10" powerwedge max, jl audio 250.1 amp, motor mounts, fuel filter, passenger side window motor, drivers lower window run, muffler hanger kit, various interior bulbs, left door striker/ajar switch, lower hood latches, changed from gray vinal to black leather shift and parking brake boots, m3 weighted shift knob, ngk-r spark plugs, magnecor spark plug wires(blue),new cabin micro-filters,new headliner & a-pillar mouldings, 5w20 synth-blend oil and filter, BG Ultra Guard syn. rear end fluid & ls additive, BG Syncro Shift II syn. manual trans fluids, stainless steel braided brake lines and dot 4 fluid, extra brake light mod, new p/s reservoir and rubber hoses need to do - fix door panels, paint job, MORE MONEY!! | | | 06-16-2010, 05:10 PM | #7 | Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Greenfield, Ma Posts: 133 | I had the most annoying rattle. I checked Everything. I found like 5 screws that were lose/rusted through the heat shields throughout the exhaust. Check the mud flaps/undercovers. And brake dust shields had worn through the bolt holes and rattled, but the main thing was my weld started to crack at the resonator. So yeah. | | | 06-17-2010, 10:45 PM | #8 | Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Florida - Tampa Posts: 92 | Quote: Originally Posted by 95white318ti I had the most annoying rattle. I checked Everything. I found like 5 screws that were lose/rusted through the heat shields throughout the exhaust. Check the mud flaps/undercovers. And brake dust shields had worn through the bolt holes and rattled, but the main thing was my weld started to crack at the resonator. So yeah. | Thanks for the suggestions. I have in my pursuits gone through much of those areas and have new dust sheilds/ vents to go with the new wheel hubs. First things first though. Having just wrecked my ankle-digging around at the moment isn't going to happen. Motor mounts though look ok from above. Will have to wait to get underneath. Very interested in Ti-Billy's outcome. Cheers | | | 06-20-2010, 07:05 PM | #9 | Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Tulsa, OK Posts: 252 | MY NOISE IS FIALLY GONE!!!!!!! i received my motor mounts on sat. morning and i finally got put them in this morning, and both of them were broke, 2 motor mounts should not equal 4 pieces. drove down to the spot in my neighborhood where it always clanks and rattles and it made no noise at all, it trully sounds like a new car now when you drive it. I am very happy now and here's a pic of my old mounts...enjoy __________________ 1996 318ti base: m44, 5 spd, lsd - 18x8 bremmer kraft wheels w/sumitumo tires 225/40R18 & bmw locking lug studs, 10mm spacers in rear, halo headlights, cold air intake, koni str.t struts and shocks w/mounts, h&r sport springs, serp belts, control arm & tie rod kits, front sway bar links, JVC kd-x50bt headunit w/ipod hook up in the glove box, alpine sps-500(front and rear), jl audio 10" powerwedge max, jl audio 250.1 amp, motor mounts, fuel filter, passenger side window motor, drivers lower window run, muffler hanger kit, various interior bulbs, left door striker/ajar switch, lower hood latches, changed from gray vinal to black leather shift and parking brake boots, m3 weighted shift knob, ngk-r spark plugs, magnecor spark plug wires(blue),new cabin micro-filters,new headliner & a-pillar mouldings, 5w20 synth-blend oil and filter, BG Ultra Guard syn. rear end fluid & ls additive, BG Syncro Shift II syn. manual trans fluids, stainless steel braided brake lines and dot 4 fluid, extra brake light mod, new p/s reservoir and rubber hoses need to do - fix door panels, paint job, MORE MONEY!! | | | 06-24-2010, 08:20 PM | #10 | Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Florida - Tampa Posts: 92 | Hey - Thanks for the update. I've ordered a set. What DIY guide did you use? Cheers | | | 06-24-2010, 11:42 PM | #11 | Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Tulsa, OK Posts: 252 | i have no guide sorry, i've been working vehicles on and putting engines in cars since i bought my first when i was 13 years old, and then i went to two different schools for profesional automotive training, im certified to work on anything from small engine stuff (lawn mowers) to big a$$ D9 bulldozers, but i found that there's a lot more money to be made and a lot easier way to make it, so now i sit in the a/c and sell parts lol. However all you need to do is support the front of your car with jack stands, both nuts for the mounts require a(all 3/8 drive) 16mm socket, if you have a long extension like 1 1/2 to 2feet long it makes the tops a lot easier, the bottom will require about a 6 inch extension remove the nuts top and bottom (do one mount at a time), then take your jack and a block of wood and raise you engine by the oil pan slowly (if your careful and don't try to "gorilla" it it will be fine, that's what the block of wood is for) untill you see the bracket raise off the mount, get under the car and remove the old mount and install the new one, when you let you engine back down it will look like the bracket hole does not like up with the mount stud, just let them barley touch and grab your engine and pull it to the side(it should move pretty easily), it will line up and you can let it down and tighten up your nuts and then do the other side. it took me all of about 30 minutes to put both of mine in and i didn't rush it at all and i didn't use any air tools, really hope this helps as you could see in my picture mine were pretty worn.....good luck!!!! __________________ 1996 318ti base: m44, 5 spd, lsd - 18x8 bremmer kraft wheels w/sumitumo tires 225/40R18 & bmw locking lug studs, 10mm spacers in rear, halo headlights, cold air intake, koni str.t struts and shocks w/mounts, h&r sport springs, serp belts, control arm & tie rod kits, front sway bar links, JVC kd-x50bt headunit w/ipod hook up in the glove box, alpine sps-500(front and rear), jl audio 10" powerwedge max, jl audio 250.1 amp, motor mounts, fuel filter, passenger side window motor, drivers lower window run, muffler hanger kit, various interior bulbs, left door striker/ajar switch, lower hood latches, changed from gray vinal to black leather shift and parking brake boots, m3 weighted shift knob, ngk-r spark plugs, magnecor spark plug wires(blue),new cabin micro-filters,new headliner & a-pillar mouldings, 5w20 synth-blend oil and filter, BG Ultra Guard syn. rear end fluid & ls additive, BG Syncro Shift II syn. manual trans fluids, stainless steel braided brake lines and dot 4 fluid, extra brake light mod, new p/s reservoir and rubber hoses need to do - fix door panels, paint job, MORE MONEY!! | | | 06-25-2010, 12:55 AM | #12 | Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Florida - Tampa Posts: 92 | Thanks for the direction! and thanks for taking the time to spell it out. Cheers! | | | 06-25-2010, 12:55 AM | #13 | Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Elizabeth City, NC Posts: 3,877 | __________________ ~Dave~ 98 328ti Morea Grun slicktop 11 128i space gray slicktop 13 JGC WK2 Deep Cherry Search | RealOEM | | | 06-27-2010, 04:48 PM | #14 | Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Florida - Tampa Posts: 92 | Quote: Originally Posted by spidertri | Thanks for this! | | | 06-27-2010, 05:37 PM | #15 | Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Montreal Posts: 283 | ti-billy, did you have steering problems like wiplash? I figure you did and this fixed it. Wiplash, are your mounts shot also ? hope your ankle fixes up nice and quick the reason I ask is that my ti it pretty twitchy on the highway , especialy in the groves, not so much with my winter 185-65-15, but too much with my 205-55-16 continentals. was thinking of going back down to 195-15 but kinda sad to see on an m-tech instead of my style 55s. maybe if I were to add spacers would help some. however, many tis are running 225s and seem fine. I'll take a look at my mounts also and was considering all the other replacement parts and not even crossed my mind to check this, thanks | | | | | Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | | Posting Rules | You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is Off | | | |