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The 318ti OBD-II engine...
10-19-2006 06:48 PM
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Old 02-13-2010, 03:53 AM   #1
Recon427
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Default Cooling System Help Please!

Here is the story: I noticed that while driving on the highway my temperature gauge reads 1/4 [the top edge of the blue mark]. However, lately I have noticed that in idle the car starts warming up to mid mark and then to 3/4 mark. If I apply the accelerator it decreases down or if I go driving it decreases as well. Furthermore, when I was at a red light the heat would blow cold. Now, after searching this site and reading the Bentley Repair Manual; I came to realize that it could be a slew of different things. So, I warmed up the car to the mid point temperature mark. shut the engine off and felt the coolant hoses leading from the thermostat housing. The one on the right was warm [facing the engine from front of car view point] and then one on the left was lukewarm. I massaged the left hose moving towards the thermostat housing and I got a mild "burb" sound. Like something, perhaps an big air bubble, just passed through the hose. Then, I start the car. Holy ****, the car made a mild whining noise and had fairly bad vibration. It was abnormal. After about 1 minute of this, all of a sudden I hear a loud depressurizing noise. I cannot identify exactly where it came from however, on my engine, front side [above all of the belts and located on the left front edge of the valve cover] is a small device that looks like a miniature pump or regulator of some sort. I can take a picture and email it to whomever can help me identify it. In any case, I believe the sound came from there. After this, the engine purred just fine and everything was copacetic. The temperature gauge registered the mid mark and did not budge from there at all as I left the car idling for the next 10 minutes. When I drove around the temp gauge did not decrease but remained in the middle position. After about an hour and a half of sitting still [off] I start the car again and everything operates just fine. Gauge, after a while, registers the mid mark and the heat works 50% better. Even at idle the heat worked just fine. However, a couple of problems now came up: The car has a slightly more pronounced vibration now. Kind of like a set of bad spark plugs. [I just replaced them a month ago with NGK's]. Furthermore, if I push the "M" button the roughness of the idle decreases by 50%. Second problem, when I am sitting still and I turn the rear defroster on I noticed the rpm go down by about 50 rpm. perhaps a little more. In any case my normal idle rpm is about 750 and this looks more like 700 or 650. It happens for an instant and then it is gone. Long story short; What do you guys make out of this? I called the shop and found out that the previous owner, while maintaining perfect maintenance, apparently disregarded to flush the coolant system. Perhaps he did it at some different shop but the BMW dealership has no record and the private BMW shop that he went to afterwords for everything from oil changes, brake flush, and Inspection II [done last February] has no record of a coolant flush. So. My thinking is that I will flush the coolant. however, that doesn't explain the vibration issue and the decrease in RPM issue. What's the deal here?
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Old 02-13-2010, 06:00 AM   #2
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lol, the device that I think emitted the depressurizing sound was the smog pump. I think that's what caused it but I don't know.
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Old 02-13-2010, 08:03 AM   #3
cooljess76
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It sounds like you may have a couple issues causing these problems. First thing that comes to mind is the thermostat is stuck in the open position. I'd start with replacing that. When you have it out, you're going to lose a significant amount of coolant. This leads to your next issue. You can't just add coolant to the system without bleeding the air out of it first. Follow the steps in this link exactly and repeat until your heater blows HOT air. It'll probably take 3 or 4 tries to get all of the air out of the system. This means letting the car warm up and cool down over and over until no more bubbles come out of the bleed hole and your heater blows hot air(not just warm air). The temp needle should also rise to the 12 o'clock position and remain there for the entire time the car is running. It usually takes about 2-4 minutes to reach operating temperature once you start driving.

Here's the link on how to properly bleed your cooling system:
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27983

But I'd start by replacing your thermostat. You might even consider replacing the entire cooling system if your car has over 100k miles. The whole job can be done over a weekend and it'll cost less than $400.
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18066
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Old 02-13-2010, 02:32 PM   #4
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Alright. I will replace the thermostat .... $51 from autohauszus [including gasket].

I will order the BMW coolant as well.

If I can get the parts around town for similar price then I will do this job today or tomorrow. Even though I need to study Econometrics. Stupid university.

I will hold off on replacing the whole cooling system until either summer or later in the year. I do not have the time to do a rebuild now. Of course, if I replace the thermostat and the problem persists I will probably do the whole thing next weekend.

Anybody live near Downers Grove,IL that would be willing to lend a hand should I have to do this whole overhaul?

I will use compressed air to clean the radiator and maybe replace the radiator hoses.

Thanks for your help cooljess76; I will follow your instructions to the T.
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