318ti.org forum

Go Back   318ti.org forum > Technical, Maintenance and Modifications > Knowledge Base

Notices

Knowledge Base How to articles and things explained.

.
» Recent Threads
No spark after overheat
11-22-2017 02:57 AM
Last post by Tampa Brad
Yesterday 10:43 PM
2 Comments, 264 Views
1997 M3 Cali Top
05-05-2017 04:41 PM
Last post by SSpeedracer
Yesterday 05:53 AM
8 Comments, 3,282 Views
Happy Thanksgiving All!
11-23-2017 11:43 PM
Last post by BRADESTAR
Yesterday 03:27 AM
2 Comments, 136 Views
Euro glass headlights
09-24-2014 11:27 PM
Last post by teamjoe
11-23-2017 07:57 PM
181 Comments, 94,122 Views
The 318ti OBD-II engine...
10-19-2006 07:48 PM
Last post by J!m
11-22-2017 11:38 PM
95 Comments, 48,806 Views
MVP Track Time 2018...
11-22-2017 06:50 PM
Last post by Feffman
11-22-2017 06:50 PM
0 Comments, 143 Views
[332ti: S54 Hellrot...
04-10-2017 06:25 PM
Last post by BMW_Hatchback
11-22-2017 04:42 PM
30 Comments, 4,309 Views
names for your TI
10-08-2004 04:48 AM
Last post by BlackBMWs
11-22-2017 04:10 PM
343 Comments, 71,719 Views
Another Swapped Ti
11-19-2016 07:43 PM
Last post by BlackBMWs
11-22-2017 12:49 AM
66 Comments, 20,161 Views
What did you do to your...
05-06-2016 08:01 PM
Last post by Ivan
11-22-2017 12:05 AM
49 Comments, 16,620 Views
Comment Share/Bookmark
 
Tutorial Tools Display Modes
Old 08-15-2006, 04:01 AM  
CirrusSR22
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 1,585
iTrader: (3)
Default M42/44 / 318ti Valve Cover Gasket DIY. PICS!

* DIY * Replace the Valve Cover Gasket and Spark Plugs on the M42/44 Engine.

Parts Needed:

• M42/M44 Valve Cover Gasket: 11121721876
• Rubber Bolt Washers (15x): 11121721879
• Spark Plug Hole Gasket w/Bolt Hole: 11121721475
• Spark Plug...

Last edited by 1996 328ti; 10-12-2013 at 09:54 PM. Reason: Included M42.
CirrusSR22 is offline   Reply With Quote
  #75  
By ryszardsh on 07-02-2012, 08:41 PM
Default

HarryN

Assuming you are working on a M44, no that is not the correct part. Here it is, from Pelican:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...alley%20Gasket

the part number is 1112124794, which can be seen here:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...62&hg=11&fg=15

as item 12.

Also, be careful with the goofy plastic oil supply pipe on the inside of the valve cover - they will break.

RAS
Last edited by ryszardsh; 07-02-2012 at 08:44 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #76  
By HarryN on 07-02-2012, 09:54 PM
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ryszardsh View Post
HarryN

Assuming you are working on a M44, no that is not the correct part. Here it is, from Pelican:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...alley%20Gasket

the part number is 1112124794, which can be seen here:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...62&hg=11&fg=15

as item 12.

Also, be careful with the goofy plastic oil supply pipe on the inside of the valve cover - they will break.

RAS
Ahh, thank you very much. :-) Thank goodness I didn't place the order yet.

And yes, I am working on a M44 engine. I have a 96 318i
Last edited by HarryN; 07-02-2012 at 09:58 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #77  
By HarryN on 07-17-2012, 03:54 AM
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ryszardsh View Post
HarryN

Assuming you are working on a M44, no that is not the correct part. Here it is, from Pelican:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...alley%20Gasket

the part number is 1112124794, which can be seen here:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...62&hg=11&fg=15

as item 12.

Also, be careful with the goofy plastic oil supply pipe on the inside of the valve cover - they will break.

RAS
Hey Ras,

I am in the process of finishing this project. The dealer left one rubber washer out of the bag so now I am one short. Argh!!!

But anyways, what pattern did you use to tighten the valve cover gasket back on? Did you use this following pattern:



Also, I know you mentioned you tightened things down just shy of 7.3 lbs-ft (10 nm). What about the 3 bolts that are towards the front of the engine (near the fan) and then the two bolts on top of the valve cover (the ones by the spark plugs)? Is there any tightening pattern for those bolts? Did you use the same hand torque specs for them?

Again, thanks again for a great DIY. I also replaced the oil galley gasket as well as the valve cover breather hose (since my just literally just broke apart as I was trying to loosen it from the valve cover).
Reply With Quote
  #78  
By HarryN on 07-20-2012, 09:49 PM
Default

Well, one of the holes is stripped, no thanks to a faulty torque wrench. I tried to tap the hole to put a heli coil in with the valve cover on, but there is no way that is going to happen with a 1/4" drill bit and not mar the valve cover as well.

I was wondering, can we just re-thread the hole if it is stripped or is a helicoil mandatory at this point? I mean the bolt still catches fine when I hand tighten it into place, but if I try to tighten it, it will spin. I'm trying to avoid opening the hole further and messing up the seating for the collar on the collar bolt.
Reply With Quote
  #79  
By patpsc on 01-13-2013, 09:36 PM
Default

Same here. I have one stripped hole at the top inside corner near the half-moon. I used another bolt with the same length with the original factory one but it's threaded all the way to the hex head (there is no stop washer at the thread end). The bolt is tightened but I didn't torq to specs because I'm afraid it will spin again forever. Is it ok to leave like that or do I have to re-thread the hole? I dove the car around for 1/2 hour and there is no leak on that bolt. What's your best solution to this?
Reply With Quote
  #80  
By djfmf on 02-19-2013, 03:19 AM
Default

So I got the valve cover off the car, except it is still attached by the rubber hose. Is there a proper way to remove the rubber from the valve cover? I don't want to break anything.
Reply With Quote
  #81  
By pok3ypup on 03-22-2013, 03:59 AM
Default

Are the pictures not uploaded anymore?
Reply With Quote
  #82  
By UberWagen on 03-25-2013, 03:20 PM
Default

If the oil supply tube seal is too hard, would that cause a no oil to cams issue?
Reply With Quote
  #83  
By fastworker on 08-11-2013, 11:02 PM
Default Just another thanks for the writeup

Just finished this - the precipitating cause was the coolant fitting at the back of the head was leaking, as per normal. (After replacing everything that leaked at the front of the engine bay.) And the only way for mere mortals to get to the fitting is apparently to take the cam cover off. Which is just as well, as the gaskets for the spark plug towers were past their due date, and three of the towers had a lot of oil in them. It's a wonder the thing still ran. So all that, and new plugs and cabin filters too. Shop had quoted me $350 in labor to replace just the coolant fitting. Another happy forum user!
Reply With Quote
  #84  
By 1996 328ti on 10-12-2013, 09:53 PM
Default

Nice tip removing the battery compartment cover.
I was able to get a large handheld mirror to view the back of the motor to be sure the gaskets are seated. I'll feel for oil once it's cool. I still smell oil but hope it's just oil burning off.

Note: I found the instructions apply just as well to the M42 with the exception of
Oil Supply Seal: 11121247948. I couldn't find it in my M42 motor until I realized it's note there.
I'm going to edit the first post.
Reply With Quote
  #85  
By BMW_Hatchback on 10-27-2013, 03:12 AM
Default

It's been a long time since visiting this thread, two questions:

1. Did anyone else find aftermarket Bosch plugs to be too long (for M42)?

It's impossible to get these aftermarket plugs to line up like this:



2. What did everyone else do for this? These wires came unlabeled for "4 cyl BMW" :rollseyes
Reply With Quote
  #86  
By MINIz guy on 12-20-2013, 02:13 AM
Default

When I did my valve cover, I labeled my boots 1-4 starting from the front of the car. I was also able get get the wire lengths to be perfect. The harness' length can be adjusted by popping the wires out of their clips and adjusting to the proper length.

Also, Cirrus has great coverage on this but I also have a DIY video I created.

Reply With Quote
  #87  
By fugi318 on 03-31-2014, 02:36 PM
Default oil supply seal

i am planning to do the valve cover gasket on my car and i got a question on replacing the oil supply seal, is there a screw to be remove? or is the seal just slides in and out?
thank you
Last edited by fugi318; 03-31-2014 at 02:44 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #88  
By Sito on 04-09-2014, 08:03 AM
Default

Hello

I just finished my valve cover gasket replacement last sunday after having to heli coil 12 out of the 15 bolts because the P.O decided to take the car to a mechanic that probably didn't take the time to torque the bolts to specs and ended up striping the threads and that also lead me to another problem having oil in my spark plugs. And after all that work that I put in this weekend and following this DIY forum my car started to run the way that it should be but just Intel today (15 miles later) my check engine light came on could it have been that the spark plug wires got damage from the oil



Reply With Quote
  #89  
By paul somlo on 01-31-2017, 06:38 AM
Default

Here's a tip that made the job go a little smoother: When you place the gasket on the valve cover, tie it in place with dental floss at several places around the perimeter. This keeps the gasket in place when you turn over the valve cover, especially the half moon area. After the cover is placed, the floss is easily cut and pulled out before the bolts are tightened. Leave one bolt hole on the driver's side without floss so that you can place a fastener in there loosely to keep the cover in place while you cut the floss and place the other bolts. Also, it helps to put a wrench on the flywheel bolt and turn (clockwise) until the "squares" at the back of the camshafts are at a point where they'll interfere the least. I found that the half moons tended to get hung up on them, folding them over. I did a few dry runs w/o silicone to get a feel for it. When you get the cover seated, you can reach your hand back there and easily feel whether the half moons are in place.

I saw a neat trick on YouTube regarding installation of the rubber washers on the valve cover bolts - lube the washer, place it on the bolt, then thread an M6x1 nut onto the bolt, which will force the washer over the shoulder. And by the way, when you tighten the bolts into the head, go slow - once that shoulder hits the aluminum head, they're not going any farther; that's the point where they'll strip.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg P1191839.JPG (81.0 KB, 21 views)
Reply With Quote
Comment

Bookmarks


Currently Active Users Viewing This Tutorial: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Tutorial Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 01:04 AM.


.
Powered by site supporters
vBulletin Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©1999 - 2017, 318ti.org

Tutorial powered by GARS 2.1.8m ©2005-2006
© vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2
[page compression: 92.73 k/125.17 k (25.91%)]

318ti.org does not warrant or assume any legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness, or usefulness of any information or products discussed.