Time to make a final decision.. my CRX, or a new TI?

[jeff buena]

Hello there 318ti.org members

I'm new to this board & I've got a few questions. First off let me tell you about myself..

I drive a 1991 Honda CRX SI, no modifications outside of aftermarket wheels & tires. http://www.pashnit.com/roads/cal/YerbaBuena.htm <-- That's my favorite road. I am a total canyon lover and I absolutely *love* my CRX for this, I drive yerba buena 3-4 times a week if that says anything (The road has 188 turns in 12 miles). But... the CRX is a '91.. its old.. its dated.. it needs love. Unfortunately, it was my first car and i'm extremely attached to the idea of a small hatchback... too bad none look good to me. Then one day while grabbing a burger I saw this beautiful car and I ran up to it wondering who could possibly make this car.. whaddya know, its a 318ti. I'm in love with this car but my friends are telling me "Keep your crx, the 318 is a POS","You have to pay yearly maintenance on it from BMW and they rip you off". I dont trust them though because they said the same thing about the crx. These guys are dorks with cleartails and broken Civic DX's, they wouldn't know a canyon if they flew off the side of the grand canyon So on to the point of my post -- I need to make a decision, i'm looking for a cheaper vehicle that has features I want ( REAR WHEEL DRIVE HATCHBACK .. ahem, power windows, power steering, SPACE, and other things as well. Is everything my friends keep telling me about the maintenance true? I don't really care about speed as I hardly hit over 50 while i'm having fun on my roads, but cost is definently an issue as i'm only 21 I'd appreciate your guys' input & also like to thank you for having good taste in cars

[Travis]

My friend's CRX led me to buy an SE-R, and when it died, I bought a 318ti instead of a VR6 Corrado for the rear wheel drive (and have you tried to find a decent Corrado?).

The preventive maintenance isn't expensive (if you do it yourself, which you can, easily) and the cars handle really well.

The power is a bit weak, slightly better than a CRX, slightly worse than an SE-R. On the other hand, the shifter, sport seats, solid structure, etc. are pretty amazing compared to the old SE-R. I think my ti is screwed together better at 130,000 miles than the SE-R was new.

check bmwmarketplace.com as well as the usual sites when you get ready to shop. Also there is a 318ti yahoo group that is pretty active. The 320 and 325 ti groups are file dumping decoys, as far as I can tell.

Travis

[1996 328ti]

I find it no more expensive to service my BMW than my 1990 Mazda MX6. I'm on my 2nd ti and it now has almost 160K miles. I go to the track several times a year. I am wearing out parts faster than if I was on the street, but that goes without saying.
A 4-cylinder is not the quickest off the line but the ti is a great handling car. Forget that it is a BMW. It is just a fun car to drive. You can load tons of stuff in the hatchback as you know.
People who say they are expensive to maintain either had a lemon or assume it's expensive.

It you where to go to the dealer for maintenance you might spend $500 every 36K miles. With help from people here and the ti mailing list you can cut those expenses down.

I would only be looking for a sport. That is the one with the M-technic trim but more importantly it has a better suspension and seats from the other two models.

You can always add a super charger later. But even at 138hp, it's a load of fun. You can still tear up those canyons.

BTW- The 325ti is just a list set up for uploading files. If you follow http://www.318ti.net you will be redirected to the Yahoo list.

[2ndBimmer]

Im only 21 myself and have had my Ti for a year now. I LOVE it. Yeah, its not gonna be winning any races BUT it handles very well, is built solid, and is a blast to drive! It may be the bottom of the BMW line but it has that BMW go-go-go driving spirit.

If you dont crash, it aint expensive (ie: ~$850 for replacing my front bumper, my advice: avoid sliding into a large icemound), changing the oil can be done by yourself, 5 Qts (5x$1.80)+ about $7 for the oil filter. Make sure you use premium fuel, which is about $1.75 a gallon where I am; It is my understanding that BMW tunes all their engines for 91 octain. I tend to average 28 Mpg overall. The car will hit triple digits without a problem and is very stable all the way from 0-100, only at about 110 does it get a little shakey.

So at 110000 miles the car drives like a young gun! I expect it to make it as far as my first BMW (261000).

[J!m]

And if all those did not convince you, what do you think will hold it's value down the road? A Honda CRX si, or a BMW 318 ti? (if unsure, check used prices)

One bit of advise: DON'T buy the Bimmer to 'pick-up chicks'. I get far more notice in my 1971 Land Rover in a day than I've gotten in my BMW I've had since 1998 (but that's OK with me)...

As far a cargo is concerned, I can fit my entire drum kit in the ti. Don't try this with a CRX...

Fuel economy will be less than the CRX, but quite good. Handling is excellent with the four- quite the auto-x weapon (get some slicks).

If you drive the twisties, you will wonder why you have gone without a well-balanced rear-drive car for so long...

[jeff buena]

Thanks tons for the replies guys! Guess what!! I had a chance to drive one for about 15 minutes yesterday... I am totally blown away. It *IS* what i'm looking for! Like I said, speed is not an issue here as go karts dont even hit full speed on the roads I have my fun on As far as cargo space, my CRX holds a LOT more than you (or even I) would expect, i've moved two times and transported a refridgerator so far I am pretty sure I will keep the crx because it's a salvaged vehicle about to hit 210k miles, i'd probably only get $250 on a trade in But if you guys don't mind I have a few more questions..

Can you drive these cars pretty hard? I redline my car about 15 times a day, but only because I know I can.. its controllable. Can the 318 take some hard driving like that and still purr?

Maintenance. I don't know much, but i'm willing to try anything to save money.. would I be forced to go to a BMW mechanic to do simple things like changing my alternator or distributor? Or would a service manual + time solve most of my problems provided I have the proper tools.. I was told that bimmers require special tools, but again this is all from UN-reliable sources (read: friends who don't want me to get it )

And last but not least.. when you get used to driving this car.. do you feel as if you ARE the car? This will be hard to explain.. My CRX handles like a gokart, and has got pretty stiff suspension (so feels like one too) but I *am* the car... I can confidently drive edges from the side of the road and know exactly where my car is at all time. When I drove the 318, it was somewhat 'floaty' feeling... but I have a feeling it was because of the non-sport suspension, and the fact that i'm not used to driving the car (or any other car for that matter) thanks for all the input guys, and due to my canyon driving i'm considering auto-x!

btw, J!m.. definently not getting the 318 to pick up on chicks I live in suburbia, teens use m3's to pick up on chicks around here I'd have better luck with a turbo geo metro!

[J!m]

Well, as far as driving hard goes, take care of you motor and it will take care of you. I bounced off my rev limiter more than a few times (and nearly every time I auto-x'd)- 63mph in second gear- don't try this on public roads. I also changed the oil far more often than I probably needed to...

The motor purred 'till the day I removed it (I have replaced it with an M3 motor) and I did not need any particularly exotic tools to change the engine. (and there is NO distributor on this car. Wake up and smell the '90's dude!) so basic maintainence is easy. It DOES have plug wires, and it's CRITICAL the order is not screwed up when changing them (MAGNECOR there is no other), among opther things to be careful of (don't let your Honda mechanic NEAR this engine...).

You won't even get your hands dirty changing the oil. The filter is right on top, easy access.

You won't be dissapointed. You MAY want to go above-and-beyond the factory 'sport' suspension for the 'empty rider truck' ride, but Bilsteins with the factory sport springs could suprise you. The 'sport' ride is only about 3/4 inch lower than stock, so speed bumps don't remove vital parts.

It may be a bite to get into this car financially, but I know NO ti owners who regret the purchase.

[96cali]

Hey Jeff, I also come from the Honda Hatch Fanclub...my 1988 Acura Integra was still fun as hell to drive until it got rear ended last Friday (RIP, the adjuster is due any day now). I also described it as a gocart because of the incredibly responsive feel and great visibility from the drivers position. 182K out of the OEM shocks and clutch! I drove later Integras and Civic Si's from newer generations and they had lost whatever made it great. This led me to look for something comparable in feel as I'm no speed racer. A Saab Viggen, the Protege 5 and the ti were the only cars that had a tight enough clutch/shifter for me. Well, to tell the truth my california roof was the real selling point!

Do it. Better yet get a cali roof and ask a car-sick-proof friend to come enjoy the canyon twisties while peering out the gigantoid sunroof. ;}

[2ndBimmer]

You are looking at getting a manual right? Yes? Good.

As to redlining it, yeah, i hit 6k maybe once a week (i normally accelerate to 4.5 or 5k), no problems at all; i change the oil about every 2 months (20w50 for summer, 10-40 for winter).

I was surprized how far back the oil plug is set though. I guess the engine is set further back than they were on the older bimmers but its not a problem (I use a one ton jack). Just weird the first time i crawled under the engine up to my belly button to reach that bolt.

[fourbanger]

hm..

I redline maybe about three times a day.. 6800rpm..

[chadder007]

Really, there is no point to redlining this car. It reaches peak HP and Torque around these ranges....
1st gear 3.5 k
2nd 3.5k
3rd 4k
4th 4.5k
5th 5k

If you are pushing it further you are just blowing gas and getting really no more power in the gear you are in.

[2ndBimmer]

Well, horsepower is unaffected by gearing, and reaches its maximum at about 5900. Torque can be multiplied by gears, though the engines natural peak for twist is at 4000.

[fourbanger]

There is a reason to redline the car....
when you get to the next gear, your still in the thick of the powerband.

i wonder if my friend's gtech is badly calibrated, but i was hitting mid 15's in 1/4 mile runs... i think it's that stupid exhaust.. i wish we had a dyno so i could know exactly how much i'm losing cause of it.

[jeff buena]

thank you for all the replies guys, i've made the decision I'm keeping the crx as a beater, and saving up for a hefty downpayment on a TI I'll follow these forums though.. look forward to hearing from me again in a few months!