» Site Navigation | | » Recent Threads | | | | | | | | 04-26-2011, 03:47 AM | #31 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: san jose Posts: 425 | car is acting up again i dont know what to do im going to make a tempary fuel pump kill switch till i figure out this problem the only way the car start is by pulling the fuel relay ...kinda emberrasing when u have to pop the hood and start yr car while ppl are checking out yr car in the parking lot of some store or gas station you think lol... | | | 04-26-2011, 07:06 AM | #32 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: san jose Posts: 425 | looks like im dealing with clinder wash down from a bad tune fml im getting 60 psi when car wont start 95 psi after clinder drys up 135 psi if i poor oil in the clinder .off to mm for rehone and new rings. thats if i didnt screw up the piston skirts and clinder walls ... | | | 04-26-2011, 06:06 PM | #33 | Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Gulfport, Florida Posts: 3,208 | 95psi with cylinder dry is correct. I've never had over 100psi on any cylinder and I have less then 2% leak-down on all cylinders. These are low compression motors and should not make 135psi at anytime. I would do a leak-down before I pull and send the motor off... John S | | | 04-26-2011, 08:31 PM | #34 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: san jose Posts: 425 | Quote: Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx 95psi with cylinder dry is correct. I've never had over 100psi on any cylinder and I have less then 2% leak-down on all cylinders. These are low compression motors and should not make 135psi at anytime. I would do a leak-down before I pull and send the motor off... John S | Talk to Jim this morning do to low cylinder compression and cams it's right dry 95 psi wet 115 psi I explained what's going on he said to things fuel pump check vales is bad do to car will start warn if restarted right away if sits for 30 seconds won't start unless hold gas and crank for 39 seconds for fuel to build up . Or cuz not much ppl now how to tune cold stArt values for this ecu that the injectors ate pulsing pig rich at crank cycle witch makes sence . He said I might need to run extra injectors in manifold when boosting and a 2nd fuel control system when I put back my 440 cc I don't have Amy start problems . | | | 04-26-2011, 11:59 PM | #35 | Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Gulfport, Florida Posts: 3,208 | You are having warm start enrichment which is the issue. Either remove it from the tune or figure out why the DME is enriching when it is warm. If it was fuel pump pressure valve you would not need to pull the relay for it to start right, you are injecting too much fuel on warm starts. 440cc injectors are smaller so it will inject less on the warm start so that is most likely the only reason they work ok. I would fix the issue which is for some reason your DME thinks it needs enrichment fuel on warm starts...This is all related to your head temp sensor, if the sensor is good then the wiring has issues or the tune has warm start enrichment in it and needs to be removed from the tuning... Simple issue too much fuel on warm starts. Fix the issue don't Jerry-Rig it with small injectors and a secondary kit that will need a standalone that is boost sensitive to run that motor. | | | 04-27-2011, 03:46 PM | #36 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: san jose Posts: 425 | freaking bad coil's Heres the problem cold coil on left hot coil on right . low spark do to heat soak not enough spark to burn the gas... | | | 05-15-2011, 06:18 AM | #37 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: san jose Posts: 425 | cars running great for over 2 weeks now pulled plugs today just to have a look noticed the groung tips are white! could that be cuz im only running one step colder plugs .also i see oil on the top of the piston in cylinder 1,3, & 4 (2) looks dry is that good or bad car dont smoke or burn oil im boosting 21 psi . | | | 05-16-2011, 03:51 PM | #38 | Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Gulfport, Florida Posts: 3,208 | Don't worry about the ground straps how do the ceramic look. You want a slight off white color on the ceramic on the electrode tip. Ground straps can turn all different colors depending on the gas you burn. On the piston color or tops it is most likely not oil you are seeing but carbon with gas on top. The only way to really inspect the tops of your pistons and be sure is remove the head or use a Boroscope and look through the spark plug holes. No one can look through a hole without a special tool and tell what is going on inside pn top of the pistons in our cars unless there is major obvious damage. Take a macro picture of your plugs and post it with Mileage and I will tell you if lean/fat or fouled by oil or something else. Best way to read a motor is plugs with a hard run then push the clutch in and cut the motor and pull them and take the picture. Also are you logging with the LM-2? If so you should know if you are running lean/fat and that is the only thing to worry about other then timing being too high under boost John S | | | 05-16-2011, 04:52 PM | #39 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: san jose Posts: 425 | my plugs look's a little rich at idle and a little lean at wot seem like heat range is ok what can you tell me john... [IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m11/tazy_01/IMG_4424.jpg[/IMG these plugs have about 60- 80 miles on them . ill take better pic's later. | | | 05-16-2011, 05:24 PM | #40 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: san jose Posts: 425 | piston tops top of my pistons after a bunch of pulls these pic's are from 2hours later the oil is dry and cooked from the heat i's fresh when i first pulled the plugs it's not speard around the pistons it's more of a line run down the piston witch makes me think the the valve steams are leaking maybe the motor not broke in fully i have exaclly 1,162 miles on it car sat for a year during turbo swap maybe i shouldnt boost over 12 pounds for an other 500 miles and see if that helps or maybe im just tripping oh and no all my cylinders read 85 psi and (4 )is at 100 psi wonder if it was a bad build or just not fully broke in any fed back please thank's looks like normal carbon build up on pic's but you can see a thick oil drop b 4 it drys up . | | | 05-17-2011, 04:30 AM | #41 | Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Gulfport, Florida Posts: 3,208 | No oil on plugs so I would say no oil issues. I like the Autolite 3922 plugs. Perfect heat range. I'm not sure but those look like 3923 since the ceramic is exposed a little but that could be the picture. Looks a tiny bit lean on the plugs but could be they are too hot of a plug or not enough run time. Make sure AFR is 11.5 or lower during boost runs. Piston tops look good on clear picture, blurry picture could just be a piston that got hit with gas before you pulled the plug. Oil will not dry up so if that drys it is not oil. Your plugs show no issues with oil so I doubt you are burning any oil on this set of plugs. Also if you only did a few pulls and your AFR is 11.5 or close then leave it since the Autolite plugs take some time to show the tan color. Looks good so far but just ensure 11.5 AFR during boost and plug heat 3922 Autolite or similar heat on your brand, you want that eletrode hidden in the spark plug for protection during boost. | | | 05-17-2011, 04:37 AM | #42 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: san jose Posts: 425 | Quote: Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx No oil on plugs so I would say no oil issues. I like the Autolite 3922 plugs. Perfect heat range. I'm not sure but those look like 3923 since the ceramic is exposed a little but that could be the picture. Looks a tiny bit lean on the plugs but could be they are too hot of a plug or not enough run time. Make sure AFR is 11.5 or lower during boost runs. Piston tops look good on clear picture, blurry picture could just be a piston that got hit with gas before you pulled the plug. Oil will not dry up so if that drys it is not oil. Your plugs show no issues with oil so I doubt you are burning any oil on this set of plugs. Also if you only did a few pulls and your AFR is 11.5 or close then leave it since the Autolite plugs take some time to show the tan color. Looks good so far but just ensure 11.5 AFR during boost and plug heat 3922 Autolite or similar heat on your brand, you want that eletrode hidden in the spark plug for protection during boost. | sweet i feel much better now im running little lean up top 12 A/F i will drop down to 11.5 plugs are ngk bkr 7e only one stage colder im going to run yr plug & see how i like them .thank's bud. | | | 05-17-2011, 04:44 AM | #43 | Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Gulfport, Florida Posts: 3,208 | Quote: Originally Posted by blowin 4 sweet i feel much better now im running little lean up top 12 A/F i will drop down to 11.5 plugs are ngk bkr 7e only one stage colder im going to run yr plug & see how i like them .thank's bud. | Run the 3922. I've run them for years and they are the only plugs I run. They are cheep but are copper which is the best conductor. They also hide the ceramic and tip in the plug so it is not exposed to the combustion process which is much safer on a boosted motor. I change mine every 10,000 miles. Autolite 3922 are cold plugs and the best by far, I have turned on a few people to these with boosted motors and all that have run them report less detonation issues and better running cars overall. Copper is the best metal to run, don't be fooled by high priced metal on your plugs, it only makes it harder for your coil to jump the gap and make a good spark. Take the AFR to 11.5 and you will be a little safer with no loss in power. I run 11.0-11.3 on my AFR on my street tune and have seen no power increase by going any leaner like 11.5 or higher. It only damages parts when you run that lean Also on the compression test, do it with the TB open and it might even out all cylinders. John S | | | 05-17-2011, 04:51 AM | #44 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: san jose Posts: 425 | i have ran 11.5 just feels like im loosing power my plugs are copper i like them but yr seem a bit better. im car hugs so much gas if im on it hard i get about 10miles to the gallon and it pulls like crazy and it also pulls to the left a little i think my trial arm bushing is going out i got the new one but never came around to install i hear its a pain in the buttt. | | | 05-17-2011, 04:59 AM | #45 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: san jose Posts: 425 | Quote: Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx Run the 3922. I've run them for years and they are the only plugs I run. They are cheep but are copper which is the best conductor. They also hide the ceramic and tip in the plug so it is not exposed to the combustion process which is much safer on a boosted motor. I change mine every 10,000 miles. Autolite 3922 are cold plugs and the best by far, I have turned on a few people to these with boosted motors and all that have run them report less detonation issues and better running cars overall. Copper is the best metal to run, don't be fooled by high priced metal on your plugs, it only makes it harder for your coil to jump the gap and make a good spark. Take the AFR to 11.5 and you will be a little safer with no loss in power. I run 11.0-11.3 on my AFR on my street tune and have seen no power increase by going any leaner like 11.5 or higher. It only damages parts when you run that lean Also on the compression test, do it with the TB open and it might even out all cylinders. John S | i raced a stock chrysler 300 srt arent they 6.1 L 425 hp that car is fast i thought he had me as soon as the turbo kicked in he was 5 cars in my mirror & all i got from him was dirty looks. i should have rolled down my window and said how's it feel to get smoked by a 4 banger lmfao... | | | | | Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | | Posting Rules | You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is Off | | | |