Dan's Complete S52 Experience Thread: Swap, Rebuild, Drag, Autocross, etc - Page 3

ATF · 07-01-2008, 12:48 AM

Hey tiFreak, the next time we go up to NED you should come. It's only 3 1/2 hours away

(according to google maps).

Ken, I'm down to go to NED again, I would definitely love seeing Dan's ti going down the strip, instead of up the tow truck

dahamler · 07-01-2008, 02:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ATF

Hey tiFreak, the next time we go up to NED you should come. It's only 3 1/2 hours away

(according to google maps).

Ken, I'm down to go to NED again, I would definitely love seeing Dan's ti going down the strip, instead of up the tow truck

When the beast gets hungry I guess likes to eat parts? We should be ok if we don't drop the clutch at 6000 rpm with the M/T drags.

dahamler · 07-28-2008, 11:07 PM

Update: 7/27/08

I just drove the car in my third autocross event.
Overall the car handled very well, I didn't get good tracton until the second run. This mainly because the 255/40/17 Advan A048's (all round) aren't the best autoX tire. These were mounted on D-force 17x8 wheels WITH 15mm spaces. Needless to say all of my fenders had to be rolled.

I have also:

removed the rear sway bar
installed a MOMO steering wheel (must use Z3 hub, No airbag light and the horn works)
installed m3 front shock bearing for added camber -2.7 (total) and extra toe.

I'll follow up with pics later.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNDgjden21Q

dahamler · 11-21-2008, 07:09 PM

Ok I know that its been a while but here are some new updates.

I finally pushed the car until the point where I felt it needed a brake refresh.

So I purchased some Hawk HP + pads and some steel braied lines .

I also swapped the front hubs from a 1998 M Roadster that I parted out, so now I have larger front rotors and calipers.

I also added a 28mm front Sway bar from H&R and removed the rear swaybar.

This brake setup was so effective (keep in mind that I have the stock rear setup and TI brake booster) that I would argue that the improvement trumps the S52 engine swap! THE CAR BRAKES THAT WELL!!!!!
Turn in was greatly improved with the front sway but isn't the ideal setup for an open track events.

dahamler · 11-21-2008, 07:15 PM

Since I built this car in Feb 2008 I have been looking for some type of underpanel to protect the car from road and track debris. After months of searching a friend recommended a underpanel from motionmotorsport. This company is locally owned by enthusiasts who builds a very good product.

Install was a breeze thanks to the youtube video that they made!

Sorry no picss.

dahamler · 11-21-2008, 07:17 PM

Since I built this car in Feb 2008 I have been looking for some type of underpanel to protect the car from road and track debris. After months of searching a friend recommended a underpanel from motionmotorsport. This company is locally owned by enthusiasts who builds a very good product.

Install was a breeze thanks to the youtube video that they made!

Sorry no pics but here is the vid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZS5HoaVbrFo

dahamler · 11-21-2008, 08:08 PM

Dyno Day:

Well after a very long weekend of track time at NHMS and Epping Dragway I decided to go to a Dyno Day with some BFC members. During my track session there were many times where the car was downshifted from high speeds which gave my clutch a very good workout. During the last 45 min session I heard a pop and felt a clunk within the drivetrain, after that the car was hard to shift and had a very bad vibration fron 6-7k rpm.

Off the dragstrip I go, ran a 13.6 with street tires and no burnout.
Next day dyno:

I car ran fine on the way down a felt very fast so I was expecting good numbers.

The first pull showed 205.50 hp and 193.27 TP with a huge dip in the midrange (more on this later).

The car seemed to be running lean on the topend so I decided to throw a set of pink top 21 lbs injectors in it and the result was that the car ran even more lean. I think this was becasue of the injector pulse width and duty cycle being deceived by the O2 sensor and the TMS chip.

I put the 17 ppound injectors back in and let her rip! The car put down 214.88and backed it up with a 217.15 with 208 and 209 tq.

Then the car refused to go into gear with the engine was running. We bleed the slave cylinder several times but nothing worked.

The problem ended up being a broken pressure plate. The metal strips or bands that connects the fingers that the throwout bearing seats on and disengages the clutch and the pressure plate face had broke in two sections.
The result was that the car was unable to fully release the clutch and vibrated due to the unbalanced rotating mass.

I WHILE REPLACING THE PRESSURE PLATE I NOTICED THAT THE NEW ONE FROM BIMMER WORLD WAS MUCH MORE HEAVY THAN THE ONE I BOUGHT FROM EBAY SO BUYER BEWARE! SAME PART NUMBERS AND SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT MARKINGS. KNOCKOFF??????????????????

While I had the transmission out I decided to install a steel braided clutch line along with a autosolutions short shifter for a E36 M3. I already had one of these shifters in my E46 M3 and I love it. Here are pics to compare the new shifter to the Z4/ E36 setup I had before.

The autosolutions kit make the shifts much more direct and crisp and decreased overall shifting effort by about 25%. The downside was that the shifter was back to the original height and the gates were not as close as the Z4 (lets say a 15% longer throw).

RidingSimple · 11-21-2008, 08:09 PM

Cool thread. Where'd you get those SS lines at? I hear many different stories as to our ti's needing different rear lines than regular E36's....is that true?

RidingSimple · 11-21-2008, 08:11 PM

Oh and are those HPS or HP+ pads? Big difference.
Do you have that front bar set on soft on the outermost holes?

dahamler · 11-21-2008, 08:21 PM

Forgot the dyno sheet:

dahamler · 11-21-2008, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RidingSimple

Cool thread. Where'd you get those SS lines at? I hear many different stories as to our ti's needing different rear lines than regular E36's....is that true?

Thanks! The SS lines were sourced from Turner Motorsports, but HMS also carries a set.

dahamler · 11-21-2008, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RidingSimple

Oh and are those HPS or HP+ pads? Big difference.
Do you have that front bar set on soft on the outermost holes?

Sorry the pads were HPS Plus and the bar was set on full soft (outermost holes).

dahamler · 11-21-2008, 08:29 PM

Next up sunroof delete, Momo Steering wheel, Dunlop Star Spec Tire review M Roadster Battery Relocation Kit, 3.73 diff and Dyno day take two!!!!!!!

mohaughn · 11-21-2008, 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dahamler

I also added a 28mm front Sway bar from H&R and removed the rear swaybar.

Turn in was greatly improved with the front sway but isn't the ideal setup for an open track events.

What setting do you have the swaybar set to? The holes farthest out are stiffest. I didn't like the car being on that setting. I put mine on the inward set of holes for full soft. I'm also using GC adjustable sway bar end links attached to the strut(m3 style) and I love it. No rear bar either. So a very similar setup.

Quote:

Sorry the pads were HPS Plus and the bar was set on full soft (outermost holes).

The outermost holes are full stiff. The longer the sides the longer the lever, which makes it stiffer.

edit- nevermind.. I think I have that backwards, had to check and mine is on the end..

RidingSimple · 11-23-2008, 01:01 AM

^Was gonna say, innermost holes are definitely the stiffer, outermost the softer.
My links won't even line up properly on the stiffer, innermost holes without stretching them out too much. Oh well, it's still stiff on the OM holes.

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