» Site Navigation | | » Recent Threads | | 1999 M3 Swap 09-07-2023 10:10 PM 05-02-2024 08:18 PM 6 Replies, 405,518 Views | | | | | 04-25-2007, 03:26 AM | #1 | Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: memphis, tn Posts: 1 | I've got a choice to make Hello, I'm new here and needed some advice on which 318ti is a better deal/smarter choice. My two choices have all the same features. The two options are as follows: 1999 318ti, 84,000 miles for $8800 or 1998 318ti, 113000 miles for $7000. Are the 30,000 mileage difference worth the $1800 difference? I appreciate any advice whatsoever. Thanks | | | 04-25-2007, 03:28 AM | #2 | Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Oxford, Ohio Posts: 868 | Kinda depends on the model and options. Got any more info? | | | 04-25-2007, 03:31 AM | #3 | Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Manassas, VA Posts: 4,129 | All else equal, get the 1999, so long as it's a stick shift Quote: Originally Posted by matthewa786 Hello, I'm new here and needed some advice on which 318ti is a better deal/smarter choice. My two choices have all the same features. The two options are as follows: 1999 318ti, 84,000 miles for $8800 or 1998 318ti, 113000 miles for $7000. Are the 30,000 mileage difference worth the $1800 difference? I appreciate any advice whatsoever. Thanks | __________________ 1998 (July) 318ti, 5-spd OEM Armrest Blaupunkt Heidelberg CD50 CD Player/Compact Drive MP3 Player Diamond Audio 5.25" rear speakers Navman ICN 530 GPS BMWALARM.COM (with comfort settings) after market alarm system Magnecor 8.5mm wires M-Z3 Shifter/Momo Knob Burlwood Dashboard Stromung Exhaust X-brace Racing Dynamics Front Strut Bar Carbonio C.A.I. 17" Rial Rims Vader Seats/Heated/Lumbar Support M-tech Steering Wheel/Front Sway Bar/Front & Rear Bumper Depos/w 6500K Angel Eyes/6000K HIDs Clear Corners M3 Mirrors UUC Light Weight Flywheel/M5 Clutch/M3 Clutch Slave E28 3.46 LSD/Mcoupe Cover/E30 Flanges & Halfshafts UUC S.S. Brake/Clutch Lines Hartge Roof Spoiler BavAuto Springs Bilstein Sport Struts/Shocks E46 M3 Rear Shock Mounts SPC Front Camber Kit Reiger Hatch Spoiler BavAuto Rear Camber Kit Dinan Stage II Software Turner Rear Sway Bar Reinforcements BMW E46 Auto dimming mirror with Clown Nose alarm Engine Compartment Light Heated Wiper Fluid Retrofit OEM Fire Extinguisher Da'lan Trailer Hitch Rear Sun Shade OEM Fog Light Retrofit H & R MZ3 Rear Sway Bar/ UUC Adjustable End Links Cruise Control Retrofit On Board Computer Retrofit M3 twistie style side skirts Carbon Fiber Hood | | | 04-26-2007, 06:07 PM | #4 | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: state college, pa Posts: 3,431 | Cars tend to depreciate rapidly once they hit 100k. That being said, mine is at 170k and running strong. I'm betting you could get the seller down to 8500, but the question is if the extra peace of mind is worth 1500 to you? If you're handy with a wrench, you might be better off saving the money now. There are a whole bunch of other factors I'd consider. Dealer or private sellers? Service records on either? __________________ I scream, you scream, we all scream for ZOMBIES. | | | 04-26-2007, 08:25 PM | #5 | Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Los Alamos, NM Posts: 344 | I'm running a 99 ti on 160000 miles, and it just has normal maintenance to take care of. The engine runs strong and everything, just ask if the seller has already dealt w/ the window regulators, as they SUCK on the ti. they are the only problem I've had w/ my ti, and that happens to most everybody, just a matter of time really. Otherwise, don't let the mileage scare you away if you a pretty handy around a shop. just kind of repeating what everybody else has said, get the manual transmission, and figure out whether some miles are worth 1800 buckas. It also comes down to how well they were maintained. the Previous owner of my car was an idiot, and there are some stupid things he did here and there for "performance". It took about 4 mins to undo his stupidity. Otherwise, good luck, and welcome to the forum. | | | 04-26-2007, 09:11 PM | #6 | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Central NJ Posts: 2,440 | I would get the 1998 personally. The mileage isn't as important with this car since the motors commonly run to over 200+k miles (I think some users here have over 270k). You're more likely going to have other failed components first. | | | 04-26-2007, 09:18 PM | #7 | Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Downtown Historic Fredericksburg, VA Posts: 339 | i'd get the 1998 too - that's 1800$ you have extra to do repairs/custom modifications you wouldn't have and as everyone else has said, these things run forever. mine is at 138k and still purrs like crazy. __________________ now when i hit that switch, I'M BOUNCIN. | | | 04-26-2007, 09:44 PM | #8 | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: state college, pa Posts: 3,431 | Quote: Originally Posted by BleMW i'd get the 1998 too - that's 1800$ you have extra to do repairs/custom modifications | Good point. There are some preventative maintenance strategies (mostly related to the cooling system) that are a very good idea for a ti with an unknown history. Saves you a lot of headache in the future. __________________ I scream, you scream, we all scream for ZOMBIES. | | | | Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | | Posting Rules | You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is Off | | | |