the ALTERNATE Fogg

[col.hapablap]

UPDATED

finally 'fogged' the airbox yesterday, and some of you may have done it this way... took some pics to share.

i wouldn't mind so much on some beater, but the 2nd airbox hole and visible dryer hose look of the fogg mod just didn't feel right to me.

most of us know the trouble spot of the entire intake - the snorkel. other than that it's fine really. the surface area of the plastic air duct (sitting behind passenger hl) is almost twice that of a 3" hose. it then funnels down into the flex hose above the radiator fan, and it happens to be is almost 3" (70mm?) in diameter. it then meets the choking snorkel. the exit out of the airbox to the throttlebody is about 2.5" (62mm?). i didn't write down any measurements, so don't quote me.

i know 4" is the std method, but imo 3" is fine, and is keeping with the rest of the system. just replacing the snorkel, i can have a decent 3" duct all the way to the airbox, while completely maintaining the stock look. so i exchanged the 4" stuff i had for 3" parts. aluminum 3" duct (not pictured & not yet used), two 90* elbows, foil tape, and foil&foam insulation tape (for you heat-soak guys). $15. i already had mesh, weatherstripping, hose clamps, etc.


so here's the initial elbow i messed around with. DAMN, it was a near perfect match when i took the last piece off. it turns out i needed it. there wasn't a secure way to mount it this way. good thing i bought two.


here's the original


after getting the angle just right, i sealed every joint on the elbow with foil tape. press the tape down on the seam, then outward (like window tinting).


then i carefully wrapped the elbow with one layer of foam insulation tape for ducts. i removed the foil tape that's already on this stuff. it's weak and will fall off easily. note* the insulation foam tape works GREAT. checked it out after some driving, and while everything else in the area was HOT, the elbow was still very cool to the touch.


taped the whole thing again with foil tape, no seams, nothing loose.


the mock-up. i expanded the hole on the airbox to allow the 3" pipe to fit. no surprises there. i got very lucky and hot glue was not necessary to secure the duct onto the airbox. it is a VERY tight fit. removed the inner basket too. the damping material was all flaking off eveywhere. not pictured, but there is a mesh screen b/t the elbow and hose.

since the air duct is flexible, it's relatively easy to put back together in the car. it'll help if you don't initially bolt down the airbox.

i'd like to remove the resonator and seal the hole, but i don't want anything other than an oem delete. i would NOT recommend doing some hack glue job on this part since it's AFTER the air filter. you don't want to suck up chunks of glue or whatever debris into your engine. is there any ventilation benefit to having this "reservoir of air" anyway?

after fogging it's a very small difference in performance, but it is a difference you can definitely feel. eventually, i'd like to replace the plastic air duct and hose with the single piece aluminum duct for better consistency. wrap the whole thing in insul. it would fit perfectly into the plastic shroud. i'll update the thread when i do. comments welcome.

sry long post.

[roadrash]

Originally Posted by col.hapablap

comments welcome.

sry long post.

One comment:
It's a little bit irritating for someone to submit a thorough "how to" with good photos, and then apologize for it being too long. LOL You should be proud, not sorry!

[col.hapablap]

Originally Posted by roadrash

One comment:
It's a little bit irritating for someone to submit a thorough "how to" with good photos, and then apologize for it being too long. LOL You should be proud, not sorry!

lol i felt like i was being too word-y and thanks

[M3_KILL3R]

I actually did a mod like this similar to this!! nice well great minds think alike. I did something like it and i didnt really like it that much so i went with the long tube down to the fog light....Nice write up tho....looks good. Think about painting it black tho

[col.hapablap]

i think i will wrap the whole thing in some black duct tape when i do the rest of the hose. only if it's heat resistant... don't need a gummy mess all over the radiator... i'll probabaly finish it all up over the weekend and update.

i'm a little surprised by how well one thin layer of insulation tape shields against heat.

[roadrash]

Duct tape + time= gummy mess

[M3_KILL3R]

Originally Posted by roadrash

Duct tape + time= gummy mess

+1 i say either get a can of spray paint...or get some of that foil tape you had spray paint it black and then wrap it one more time.

[roadrash]

I'll eventually remember what it's called, but in theater lighting, there's a flexible, flat black colored, metal sheeting used to keep soft goods (drapes, drops, borders, legs, etc.) from contacting the lights and catching fire. I think it's called Z-tech or something like that. Perhaps Mad Machine here knows for sure.

I'll try to find out the name and spelling because I've often wondered if it would be of any use as a lining or wrap for the air intake system. Heck, maybe I'll "find" some scraps of it in the next week or two. ;-)

[mohaughn]

I thought the purpose of fogging was to remove the snorkel and replace it with something that can flow more air. Have you really accomplished anything by just replacing that plastic elbow but still leaving the very restrictive "snorkel tip" in place? You remove the restriction at the box, but you have a huge restriction out on the end of the snorkel.

[col.hapablap]

Originally Posted by mohaughn

I thought the purpose of fogging was to remove the snorkel and replace it with something that can flow more air. Have you really accomplished anything by just replacing that plastic elbow but still leaving the very restrictive "snorkel tip" in place? You remove the restriction at the box, but you have a huge restriction out on the end of the snorkel.

i think there's some confusion. the 'snorkel' is referring to the stock plastic elbow that attaches to the airbox (first pic).

i believe you're talking about the air INLET plastic piece (the duck bill), and i've mentioned that the surface area of this inlet is GREATER (2x) than that of a 3" hose. it's then funneled into the 3" stock hose. even the funneling part of this inlet is greater than 3". no, i didn't cut it in half and do precise calculations, but you can tell by looking. only the 'snorkel' is like 1.75" in the whole system. i'll take some detailed pics over the weekend for comparison.

[mohaughn]

OK. I guess if we want to get really technical we should call them by their proper ETK names. You removed the intake muffler.

But from those pictures it would look like the plastic piece that feeds into the intake tube is less than 7square inches(the area of a 3" circle). Not the tip of the intake tube(the squarish part), but the piece that actually connects into the intake tube. It may be a result of the angle of the picture but that plastic piece appears to be much smaller than the metal piece you added.

On the m42 that "duck-bill" piece as you call it is just as restrictive as the intake muffler. And they look the be pretty similar in size and shape.

You also shouldn't really be worried about surface area, you should be looking at the cross-sectional area. You can easily determine the area of that circular plastic part by measure the circumference. It should be at least 9.4inches. If you want to get really exact figure out how thick the plastic is and then you can adjust and determine the inside circumference.

Bottom line if you like it, then great. I was just curious why you left the front plastic piece there as it appears to be smaller, which it very well may not be.

[col.hapablap]

Originally Posted by mohaughn

OK. I guess if we want to get really technical we should call them by their proper ETK names. You removed the intake muffler.

But from those pictures it would look like the plastic piece that feeds into the intake tube is less than 7square inches(the area of a 3" circle). Not the tip of the intake tube(the squarish part), but the piece that actually connects into the intake tube. It may be a result of the angle of the picture but that plastic piece appears to be much smaller than the metal piece you added.

On the m42 that "duck-bill" piece as you call it is just as restrictive as the intake muffler. And they look the be pretty similar in size and shape.

You also shouldn't really be worried about surface area, you should be looking at the cross-sectional area. You can easily determine the area of that circular plastic part by measure the circumference. It should be at least 9.4inches. If you want to get really exact figure out how thick the plastic is and then you can adjust and determine the inside circumference.

Bottom line if you like it, then great. I was just curious why you left the front plastic piece there as it appears to be smaller, which it very well may not be.

i didn't use the proper terms, but you know what i meant lol like i said, the rest of the pieces are going to come out for a single hose, so i'll take proper measurements of that piece when i do it. i still stand by what i said tho, that it isn't nearly as restrictive and isn't the main problem. but i am aiming for consistent airflow, so it will have to go.

[col.hapablap]

finished up the fogg today. rained all damn day too...

here's the mystery piece. i took measurements of the circumference using a string for 7 different segments. the inner diameter of the circular section is 2.75", and the outer diameter is 2.875". 3.14 x 2.875 = 9.0275, so i think the string worked pretty well.


the numbers speak for themselves.


after taking out the stock duct, i carefully pulled apart the aluminum duct and formed it to shape. then i wrapped it with insulation tape and foil tape just as before.
specs for uninsulated 3" aluminum duct:
max velocity : 5000 fpm
op temps : -100*F to 430*F


good fit.


the mesh now sits inside the airbox. i might move it to the entry point. or just add another.

i think retaining the use of the stock inlet duct is just fine for the m42/m44. it really isn't a major problem. you can clip it onto your radiator support for the stock look and it's already at a great location for cold air right by the kidney grille. plus, you can even screw it directly into the 3" aluminum duct to keep the stock look/functionality.

btw, the intake is now noticeably louder after doing this.

[NeoP]

Fellows,

did the mod today as it seems it will be the only one german tüv is not going to bust you about - original fog would def. be to much DIY-style and could be a problem every two years when you gotta show the guys from the legal dept.
As this alternate fogg is actually the same as the stock snorkel but a little wider and so eliminating the reduced intake snorkel clipped in at the airbox's bottom before the tube i guess no one will ever notice
By the way it brings nice little improvements that mean funnnn!!

Here is the way i did it:
Got to a hardware store with the snorkel already put out to compare the parts (damn, that beast got loud for a few kilometers... ), and saw that a 67° tube adapter is _exactly_ the deal!! Here's a pic:

As you can see i took an adaptor to a bigger tube on top, that you simply put inside the 67° adaptor. as you can vary how deep you put it in, as well as how deep you put the 70mm diameter tube into the airbox (took a dremel to widen the original opening...) you can match it to fit perfectly. 67° is the exact angle as i checked before at the store.
It is a _bliss_!! The adaptor for the tube coming from above the radiator is taking it so perfectly, i did not have to glue or whatever anything. The platform, where the original tube is laying on top of the radiator is so exactly matching and ending right at this "to-a-bigger-tube" adaptor that i couldnt believe it. Cost: 2 dollars and 89 cents!!
As everything fits like before, you can't even spot anything - you gotta know where to look....

Thank everybody for the comprehensive work throughout the forum giving every fogging solution a chance to be presented and results discussed.

NeoP