How can I eliminate the "shaky" suspension on my GF's 95 ti?

[septimus]

My GF bought a ti about 6 months ago and I've done a fair amount of tuning it up for her. Everything is pretty much the way she wants it now, but the suspension was pretty bad when she bought it. After having replaced all 4 shocks with bilsteins, front control arms with new bushings and ball joints, and even installing the X-brace (which helped), we both still have two complaints that I can't seem to straighten out.

1. It just feels loose. I drive over bumps and the whole car kinda shakes around. I can feel the chassis flexing (so I'm gonna do strut tower braces), but I know that won't fix the shaking problem. Its mainly in the rear. What should I do?

2. If you turn the wheel on the highway, the car seems to lean, set, then dart. Like, its a delayed reaction, then it turns more than you wanted to, so you have to like correct for it. I know the E30 semi-trailing arm makes the car want to turn once you've loaded the suspension, but this seems out of line. It feels almost like the car is on stilts. Any suggestions?

I've driven my fair share of BMW's over the years and they've all just felt more solid and confident. I'd like to get the car feeling like its a BMW again.

[Variance]

Well, I can't be of much help in solving the problem, but I can tell you, that definately isn't the way a ti should feel. My suspension is completely stock, and I don't have any of those issues; the car's completely solid. I'm sorry I can't be of any help, but I hope you can get it fixed.

[weezer]

Septimus, my car feels the same way after I start using 17" wheels. When I had 16" it did'nt have that problem. You are correct that when the rear end hits bumps, the car shakes/shudders. I use Konis up front, KYBs in the back and H&R sport springs; I wanted less stiffer rear sport shocks for traction. What size wheels/tires set-up are you using? I'm also thinking that it could be tire size related. Is your front end a lot lower than the rear? Your thread didn't say what type of Bilsteins you're using.

[septimus]

The whole car is 100% stock except for the "touring"? bilsteins. I think that's what they're called, not the HD and not the sport. We live in DC and the roads are pretty bad, so she doesn't want a stiff ride or anything.

[weezer]

Wow!!! So do we......what a coincidence!
Do you per chance live on the Hill?
The reason I asked that is because I think there are 4-5 318tis within 5-8 blocks from where I live.
Anyway, perhaps alignment will help, I had mine done a few week ago and helped a little. NTB has alignment specials: for one price you can return however many times within 1/2/3 years if it get off alignment again.
Good Luck!

[J!m]

You don't mention the mileage on the car, but if it has spent many miles on those famous DC roads, my first guess would be the rear sub-frame bushings are totally shot.

If they have been shot for a while, there may also be problems with the rear universal joint and possibly the carrier bearing as well. Rear trailing arm bushings should be renewed at the same time.

It seems that the rear is loose from your description, and you replaced the front (I assume because they were worn), so why not check the rears???

[dodj]

i have felt what you are describing, whats the rear alignment like?
i had to replace the whole rear coz it was all bent, replaced all the bushings at the same time.

that fixed majority of the handling problems i was having, althought it was expensive.

i still felt the front steering was loose but 2 idependant inspections said everything was fine at the front and they told me it was my tyres

i didn't belive the first time they told me and got another inspection done, when they said the same thing i simply rotated my tyres and all is good now!

i still plan on replacing the steering rack sometime this year because it has a bit of movement that anoys me, but overall doesn't really efftect the handling much that i can tell, although i have been told that it probably has a broken tooth,

gotta save up first

[AlaskaBlue]

Originally Posted by J!m

You don't mention the mileage on the car, but if it has spent many miles on those famous DC roads, my first guess would be the rear sub-frame bushings are totally shot.

If they have been shot for a while, there may also be problems with the rear universal joint and possibly the carrier bearing as well. Rear trailing arm bushings should be renewed at the same time.

It seems that the rear is loose from your description, and you replaced the front (I assume because they were worn), so why not check the rears???

That is what I was thinking too. Sounds like the text book explination of what it is like to drive a car with shot subframe bushings.

[septimus]

hehe, mileage is a whole 'nother story. Car was sold as an obd-1 m42 car, now its still obd-1 but with an m44 in it. (and the wiring harness is from an auto, whether that came with the car, or from the m44 donor is also unknown) its a 5 speed now. But the odo says 95k. so who knows whats been replaced and what hasn't.

I figured the rear subframe bushings, I took a look at what I thought were the subframe bushings the other day when I had it up on the lift doing the oil, and they didn't look torn or cracked, but it sure doesn't feel solid to drive it.

The alignment was done less than 6 mos. ago after I did the shocks, if the rear alignment is adjustable then i'm sure it must have been done.

So...

Does my e36 bentley manual cover ti subframe bushings?

Rear trailing arm bushing, where's that?

thanks for the help!

[dodj]

i don't think the rear alignment is very adjustable, i think you need modifications to adjust alignment. i might be wrong though!

when they did hte alignment, what are the readings they gave you???

[weezer]

I finally solved my shaky rear suspension issue. Turns out one of the rear shocks I upgraded just this past summer has died. I see liquid coming out of its body; do not buy KYB suspensions. They may be reasonably priced, but as t turns out quality and reliability is an issue. Unfortunately I'm stuck with it for a while. Since it is still under warranty and only a few months of usage, it was replaced....yes only one, since the other one SEEMS to be okay. The driver side rear shock started making noises, rattling, drumming, etc. Thinking it was bushings.....I will have to replace the bushings soon though. SO spend the extra $30/40/50 on a shock and you won't regret it. I have Koni adjustables up front, but I still like the feel of Bilsteins.
So far......problem solved and my ti feels and handles like a ti yet again.

Weezer