318ti.org forum

Go Back   318ti.org forum > Technical, Maintenance and Modifications > Knowledge Base

Notices

Knowledge Base How to articles and things explained.

.
» Recent Threads
The 318ti OBD-II engine...
10-19-2006 06:48 PM
Last post by Filiski120
04-24-2024 06:40 PM
210 Comments, 1,000,407 Views
Comment Share/Bookmark
 
Tutorial Tools Display Modes
DIY Alignment (Toe Adjustment)
DIY Alignment (Toe Adjustment)
Published by CirrusSR22
10-30-2010
Default DIY Alignment (Toe Adjustment)

Tools Needed:
• Pair of toe adjustment plates. "Longacre" is the big name in these but I bought a generic pair off eBay for $33.52 with shipping.
• Pair of measuring tapes. FREE after rebate at Menards
• Open-ended wrenches to adjust your tie rods. Size will probably vary with what brand tie rods you have.

Procedure:
1. Follow BMW's ballast/loading procedure which is also laid out in the Bentley manual. BMW says to load the car to get proper alignment measurements as follows: 150 lbs in each front seat. 150 lbs in the center of the rear seat, 46 lbs. in the trunk and a full gas tank. This might be overkill, but I had the weight on hand so I figured I ought to do it the right way.



2. Inflate your front tires to their max inflation pressure to eliminate most of the bulge on the bottom of the tire. This will help to give a more accurate toe measurement.

3. Lay the toe plates against the tires and string the tape measures.





** This alignment process uses two measurements, one in front of the wheel and one behind. These measurements are then converted to come up with a degree amount of toe. The spec. for the 318ti is: 0 degrees, 18 minutes (0.3 degrees) total front toe in. This means the measurement on the front of the tire needs to be smaller than the measurement at the back of the tire. I did the math and when you use a 24" toe plate (seems to be industry standard), you need the front measurement to be 1/8" smaller than the rear measurement. This equates to 18 minutes of total toe. After I did the math I found this PelicanParts article which confirms the math. Thank goodness http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...ome_toe_in.htm **

4. Give gentle pressure on the tape measures to make certain the plates are flat against the tires. Don't pull too hard or you will move the plates. Take your measurements. I used to the outer face of the plate to make my measurement. Here is exactly 65".



My first try gave me:

• 65" Front, <64 15/16" Rear. This is toe OUT of 1/16" I shortened each tie rod by 1/4 turn and took another measurement. Tie rod adjustments can be made with the car on the ground thankfully. After each adjustment, roll the car forward and backwards a few feet to allow the suspension to settle into it's new position. This time:

• 64 15/16" Front, 64 15/16" Rear. This is ZERO toe. I then shortened each tie rod by 1/2 turn which gave me:

• 64 12/16" Front, >64 15/16" Rear. This is now toe IN (of 3/16") which is what we want, but I adjusted it too much. We need 1/8" (or 2/16") IN. **Note: I stuck with a 16th of-an-inch scale to keep it a little easier to think through. ** I then lengthened each tie rod by about 1/4 turn and got:

• 64 14/16" Front, 65" Rear. This is exactly the 1/8" (2/16") toe IN we need.

When you are all done, double check that you properly tightened the tie rod's lock nuts. Readjust the pressure in your front tires. That's it! It's pretty easy, and from all accounts online this is a pretty accurate system.

I did this after replacing my control arms and tie rods. I very carefully measured the length of my old tie rods and adjusted the new ones to match. This gives you a very good starting point.
Tutorial Tools

  #1  
By CirrusSR22 on 10-30-2010, 04:52 AM
Default

Update: I removed the ballast and drove about 30 miles on the freeway. After that I measured again and got 5/32" toe in. This equates to 22.4 minutes, which is still within the 18 minutes (+/- 8 minutes) spec. in the Bentley manual.

To help keep consistent and maybe more accurate measurements, I did a couple extra things with my plates. First I labeled each one left and right so they get used one the same side each time. Also, I marked a line in the center (12") of each plate. I then line this up with the center of the wheel (crosshairs of the wheel Roundel).

Last edited by CirrusSR22; 10-30-2010 at 02:11 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #2  
By dave45056 on 10-30-2010, 03:35 PM
Default

Cirrus,
This is a good method for measuring, but not so good for adjusting. On a car the tire sweeps an angle on the ground when you turn the steering wheel. The same effect happens when you adjust the tie rod ends. Because the weight of the car is high, and the coefficent of friction of the tire to ground is also high, there is tremendous resistance to movement. At an alignment shop, they will put your car on special plates which allow the wheels to move easily.
The DIY version of this is to put the wheels you are adjusting on top of two plates that have grease in between them. Or do this on a frozen lake.
Last edited by dave45056; 10-31-2010 at 12:50 AM.. Reason: Fixed spelling mistake
Reply With Quote
  #3  
By pdxmotorhead on 10-30-2010, 06:25 PM
Default

Same method we use on race cars at the track, if you don't have plates you just have to roll the car back and forth and bounce it between each check. Its pretty easy...

Dave
Reply With Quote
  #4  
By CirrusSR22 on 10-30-2010, 09:34 PM
Default

Yeah, I can see the issue with adjusting them on concrete, but it's also why I put in there that after each tiny adjustment, roll the car back and forth to allow it to settle.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
By d235353 on 10-31-2010, 02:09 AM
Default

tnx very helpful .... one less thing to worry about shelling out for over and over and every time i took my vehicles to a laser tracking place they never put a simulated load in the car anyway and you never know what adjustment they make if any
Reply With Quote
  #6  
By Mr.Squeelerz on 10-31-2010, 03:04 AM
Default

Thanks for another great write-up! I'll be swapping out my rods and arms soon or in the spring.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
By pdxmotorhead on 10-31-2010, 08:33 AM
Default

For track purposes you weight the car as its to be used, the BMW chart is for street driving.

Probably obvious but thought I'd point it out.

I use sandbags that = the drivers weight in the racecar.

Dave
Reply With Quote
Comment

Bookmarks


Currently Active Users Viewing This Tutorial: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Tutorial Tutorial Starter Category Comments Last Post
RPM adjustment Recon427 Engine 14 12-07-2009 04:35 AM
Need some help on either a DME or a cam sensor/shaft adjustment jtkratzer Electrical 23 09-13-2007 04:31 AM
camber adjustment bolt andyman7931 Suspension 7 02-03-2006 03:37 PM
225/50-16 fit ti without adjustment? bmw318tiChic Wheels and Tires 7 11-28-2005 08:02 PM
Headlight Adjustment DGWGuitars Exterior 1 10-27-2005 08:15 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 04:22 AM.


.
Powered by site supporters
vBulletin Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©1999 - 2024, 318ti.org

Tutorial powered by GARS 2.1.8m ©2005-2006
© vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2
[page compression: 70.91 k/90.96 k (22.05%)]

318ti.org does not warrant or assume any legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness, or usefulness of any information or products discussed.