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Old 08-17-2011, 01:44 AM   #1
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Default Overheating, lame!

I was driving around and started smelling coolant so I pulled over to pop the hood. Noticed that the top radiator has had come off, so I put it back on and tightened it. Drove it around to a place where I could top it off again(since I had lost a considerable amount of coolant I assume). It's still overheating, which was when I noticed the fan was not kicking on after it had overheated.

I replaced the 40a orange fuse before(3-4 years ago) and thought it was behind the speedo. Am I wrong on this? Since I see others state it's under the steering wheel. Or is it different 318ti versions. Mine is a 1998. Looking for my manual as I speak, just wanted to get this out of the way in case I got an answer.

It took a couple fills before I topped it off, so it is circulating from what I see. Assuming it's not a thermostat issue. I also noticed a little leak come from under the car near where the oil pan is. Haven't quite figured that one out yet. So I hope it's not that damn 90deg elbow thing behind the engine. I replaced that around 4 years ago as well, but that made a bigger puddle. There's really no puddle from this, it leaks then stops after a while.


Thanks for any feedback.
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Old 08-17-2011, 04:52 AM   #2
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Okay, managed to get the car back home. Popped open the under dash(beneath steering) and was greeted by nothing, except a steel panel of some sort.

Popped open the instrument cluster and found fuse #48 , fan fuse. It was intact and looked brand new. Turned on A/C to check if aux fan was working and it was(should had done that first). So topped it off(coolant) once again.

Drove it home and along the way the needle moved very steady, then stayed in the middle for a little bit. It then moved another 1/4 of the way towards the red, but didn't quite make it all the way. Then it subsided in the middle for the rest of my journey. Not sure why that happened, maybe it recirculated the water just then.

Anyways I parked the car and checked under the body to see if I had any leaks, sure enough I did. Nothing massive, maybe 16oz or so dripped out within 1-2minutes. It's coming from behind the block inbetween the firewall somewhere. Seems to be one of those "2 parts that WILL break". Thinking it is #9 ( http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...61&hg=11&fg=15 ), if I'm looking @ the diagram the right way.


I have had this problem before, where it was leaking in similar fashion, near the same area. I couldn't find out where it was exactly leaking from, even using a flashlight. So I will drive it around and jack it up in the morning. Probably thinking it was the same part I replaced before. Forgot how much the shop charged me. So hopefully I can do it on my own.

I guess it was a combination of the radiator hose popping off that lead it to crack/split? Or maybe something else. Either way I will test the thermo as well since I will be messing with it tomorrow.



Anyone have any insight or suggestions/opinions/2cents/4cents/silver monkeys, that they want to add? Need some love.
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Old 08-17-2011, 05:08 AM   #3
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If you replaced it (the connector on the back of the head) four years ago, I doubt it broke again, but you never know. I would procede very cautiously with this. One solid overheat on these engines and it could easily be toast. That's MAJOR headache and $$$ to fix.

I would make sure you find out exaclty what is leaking and fix it ASAP. Actually, I would order both coolant connectors and every single coolant hose in that engine bay. For a relatively measly $100-ish, you could buy all these parts. It's such cheap insurance compared to an overheat.

You can do the project yourself if you feel you are even remotely handy. It's not hard, just a bit involved. A quite minor headache vs. replacing the engine (and ultimately these parts before you reinstall!) Take your time, label all the electrical connections and take pictures along the way. Triple check your work, don't take shortcuts. An ounce ($100) of prevention with these cooling parts is worth a pound ($1,000) of cure.

Here's a write up I did on just this. It's not perfect, but something to study ahead of time so you have an idea of what you'll be doing. http://318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18066

If you have the cash, replacing the water pump and thermostat is a good idea, but you don't need to right now. They are very easily accessible at a later time. All those rubber hoses and connectors are NOT, so do it right the first time! I've learned the hard way too many times by skimping on a little part here or there.
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Old 08-17-2011, 05:30 AM   #4
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Thanks for the feedback. Was just reading your thread on the DIY. I am out of a job right now so I can't really replace the whole system, but when I get the cash I plan on doing that down the road. I already replaced the thermostat/radiator hoses & radiator about 3 years ago. Seems like the water pump, smaller connectors are next. I still have quite a bit to do to the car such as suspension/hood paint(someone keyed my car)/door regulator/some instrument bulbs/random etc. Nothing as important as what could be happening now though.

What's ironic is: I'm out a job now, but was going to apply this exact week to a company where my friend works(Dish Network) and my damn car breaks down. About a year ago the same thing happened, a different job. I got the interview with the company, but my car broke down and I had to get a tow. I had to delay getting my job screening/physical to around 2pm(so around 5 hours later). Turns out they gave the interview to someone else since I took it to late in the day. Seems my car wants me to suffer, but maybe I'm too superstitious.


Anyways I will take this step-by-step and hopefully that Y connector thing is the problem, cause I can't think of anything else it could be. I did a taste test to see what the actual liquid was that was coming out and it did seem to be straight water. Which was odd cause I didn't really use a 50/50 mix. More like 70/30ish. The liquid was also kinda cool, not warm @ all. :\
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Old 08-17-2011, 05:32 AM   #5
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Then again I don't know what actual antifreeze/coolant tastes like. The liquid was still very clear.
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Old 08-17-2011, 06:02 AM   #6
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Check the hoses to the y connector if any are coming lose.
I had a leak due to hose slighty coming off the connector
I just bought a new hose and clamps and the problem was gone.
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Old 08-17-2011, 06:31 AM   #7
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Yeah, hopefully it's just a loose clamp. I found the clamps on the back-of-the-head connector are so akward to get at, it's hard to judge the proper torque on the clamp.
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Old 08-17-2011, 06:53 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CirrusSR22 View Post
Yeah, hopefully it's just a loose clamp. I found the clamps on the back-of-the-head connector are so akward to get at, it's hard to judge the proper torque on the clamp.
Yeah they are PIA
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Old 08-17-2011, 01:01 PM   #9
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Hopefully that's it instead. I have skinny wrists so hopefully this can work out to my favor.


Was reading the write up on the cooling system overhaul, seems for the head connector I have to take off the cowl thing near the wind shield, random wiring looms that may get in the way, and the intake manifold.

I never took anything off anything in a car as potent as an intake manifold, is this anything a beginner might even want to do? Should I be able to find out if that is the problem without having to take it off?

Also heard something about the fuel rail, do I even have to touch that?


Thanks again guys.
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Old 08-17-2011, 04:42 PM   #10
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I have had that back elbow hose snap on me once, I made a super hard left trying to beat oncoming traffic and the engine mounts were so shot that the elbow snapped from the engine shifting from one side to the other. The engine smoked a bit and I lost power but I turned off immediately and called for help. When my pa and I inspected what happened, he showed me the hose in the back...

we replaced that and the engine was golden again. I didn't try to drive for miles after that...

I would vote to the contrary of what Cirrus said. You don't want to just start throwing parts at the car and expecting it to be fine. I advise you to trace your steps cautiously, and track it down FIRST before throwing any new parts at it. This way, when you throw the new parts on, you will be aware of the weaker areas. I would have all of the parts ready though, if thats what he meant, but I would deeply inspect every point and joint before unbolting anything.

Another thing I do is get a scrap bedsheet (or huge rag) and put it underneath the car overnight, come back the next day, see where the drips are (vs looking at dried liquid on the street)

Eventually I had to replace the radiator (which was no good) and went through quite a few thermostats. The expansion tank is another weakness, the gaskets overtime become worn and coolant will SLOWLY leak out during engine operation, so you won't even see it when the car is off and your looking for it.

best luck bro
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Old 08-17-2011, 11:37 PM   #11
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Yesterday I made a mess of the car so I went to wash the car and clean out the interior. Spent 30min taking stuff out of the car and using leather cleaner on the seats and spot out on the carpet. Went to use one of the vacuums and damn thing didn't work, tried the other one and it was the same thing. What a waste of time. Took the car back home and waited 1hour for everything to cool down. Came back out and the temp gauge was still close to the middle. Was a hot day though, 95-100deg. Anyways, I needed a new flashlight so bought one of the LED lights @ o'reillys. Noticed outside that I was getting a leak. So I drove it home to jack the car up to crawl underneath to see if I could spot the leak.

There wasn't a leak when I got back home. Seems that it only leaks when the car is topped off? Maybe it's a small hose barely on or a small crack in one of those y head connectors(coolant pressure = leak/drip from small crack?). Out of 1 hour of driving the temp stayed in the middle, didn't over heat once. Seems like my theory might be correct, that the radiator hose wasn't on all that well and it just popped off. The pop off caused a connector to split I guess from the rapid increase in heat. Not sure anymore.

Anyways I'm going to wait till tonight and top it off again and drive it for a while, bring it back home then jack up the car to see if I can spot it. From the looks of the engine, it seems since it's behind the head that I wouldn't need to take off the intake manifold? Maybe just the cowl thing and that long harness, battery box, and random etc stuff. If all else fells and I can't find it, will have to take it to the shop.
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Old 08-17-2011, 11:39 PM   #12
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I'm all for trial and error, but I wouldn't be driving that thing around town like that
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Old 08-18-2011, 07:04 PM   #13
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I believe it's something else. I managed to spot that connector and one end looked brand new, didn't see the other half. That's not where the leak is coming from, unless it's coming off that other half of the connector then sliding down a pipe into the near middle section of the car, which I think is unlikely.

It is coming from about 1 foot above the driveshaft(towards the engine), where the trans/driveshaft meet. I'm looking at realoem and can't find anything that stands out. It's not a hose or a pipe from what Ive seen, it's laying next to the frame.


Wish I had some 318ti pictures of the driveshaft area.
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Old 08-18-2011, 09:31 PM   #14
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Sounds like you may have a leaking heater core, especially if you smelled coolant inside the car. The heater core is the furthest rear component that coolant travels through. It's the only thing that could be leaking that far back and still, it's directly above the front of the transmission hump inside the car. Does the carpet feel wet? The other things to check would be the heater valve(located on the driver's side firewall in the engine compartment), the heater core inlet outlets(located next to the heater valve) and the "Y" connector on the back of the head which I believe you've already checked.
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Old 08-18-2011, 09:44 PM   #15
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I just got back from outside. Managed to change out my fuel filter.

It is a hose. I guess whatever it goes to, that not much liquid passes through there since it's only small drips. Not sure how much comes out when I drive around. It also doesn't leak out the bottom until I drive it around for a good 10-30minutes. Just starting it and having it idle, doesn't do anything.

Quick picture thing I did in paint. The hose seems to have a weird mouth, or maybe it warped or something. The lower right portion is all I could see at the time. Not sure where the rest goes. I managed to touch it and it's not hard plastic or a tough hose, was kinda flimsy feeling.



Maybe something to do with the heater core cooljess? I will go back out in 2 hours and try to figure out more on it. It was just too hot to stay out any longer, cooling off for a bit.
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