no heat, AGAIN! WTF??

[marko]

Ok, here it goes.. I'm like 2 min. away from biting the bullet & taking this F-ING thing to the dealer so I can get OVERCHARGED & my A$$ raped!

1- installed DASC recently & most likely did not fill the car back up with coolant properly as the temp gauge went to 1/4 only + heater blew luke warm air...

2- changed the coolant, but (I guess) did not burp properly, cause same prob (luke warm & temp to 1/4)..

3- got NEW T-Stat & water pump (+ some hoses) & 'burped' the system untill no more air bubble were evident & EUREKA (!) heat works fine (read - HOT) and temp gauge dead center (ne deviations).. HAPPY AS A CLAM!

***drove over a HUGE pothole + used the A/C for the first time this year, yesterday (blows real cold)***

GOT UP TODAY & DECIDED TO TURN ON THE HEAT FOR THE F-of it & GUESS WHAT - NO F@CKING HEAT AT ALL!!!!!!!! I mean, not even A LITTLE BIT!!!

got plenty of tension on the 'temp' dial & therefore (hopefully) do not have, what I read is a 'temp dial cable issue' - car runs fine & temp gauge dead center - A/C works fine too - there is about 2 gallons of coolant in the car (when cold - always right at the MARK on the expansion tank)...

sooo, WTF??

Ps- this 'bypass heater valve'.. is that the same plastic bypass valve on the back of the head/block, which I often hear needs to be replaced at about 100K?? cause thats the only 'valve' I did not change as it was difficult to reach..

[96cali]

i don't have a solution but I do know the heater control valve (on the firewall I think) is powered closed. So if it fails, you get all heat because the valve is open. Is this the same valve you speak of?

BTW, why the dealer? Have you ever looked at:

http://bimrs.org/

http://www.bimmershops.com/bmwshops/new-jersey/

[marko]

I think I'm thinking of a different valve.. anyway, I'll probably skip the dealer & take my time with the bentley manual some time soon.. thanks, though.

Originally Posted by 96cali

i don't have a solution but I do know the heater control valve (on the firewall I think) is powered closed. So if it fails, you get all heat because the valve is open. Is this the same valve you speak of?

BTW, why the dealer? Have you ever looked at:

http://bimrs.org/

http://www.bimmershops.com/bmwshops/new-jersey/