What is my M44 trying totell me??

[BABBLEMK77]

I recently bartered my way into 98 318ti mtech. The owner keeps reassuring me that the car is great, that they sound like this, and that she's completely reliable. I'm struggling to believe it..

didnt know how to post videos up, so videos here


She sounds like she's missing.. Maybe tensioner?
I dropped the jiffy lube 10/30 he had done and went to mobile1 0/40w. Removed the motorcraft spark plugs, and replaced with suggested Ngk plugs.
It seems a little better, but still feels like she's missing..

I'm completely bummed, I haven't had this car a full week and I already can't let her go.. Any suggestions?
Thanks

[wolferj-RIP]

Ok, no, they don't all sound like that... Sales pitch..

First thing I hear is the timing chain... especially post rev.. the timing chain guides could be worn.

my 210,000 mile M44 runs and sounds smoother than that..

[BABBLEMK77]

The seller claims he changed the timing chain.. I asked if he changed the timing Chain tensioner.. He said he didn't think it needed it..

I also noticed one of the spark plug boots is pretty loose as I finished up replacing the plugs.. it doesn't seem to snap onto the sparkplug...

[wolferj-RIP]

Originally Posted by BABBLEMK77

The seller claims he changed the timing chain.. I asked if he changed the timing Chain tensioner.. He said he didn't think it needed it..

I also noticed one of the spark plug boots is pretty loose as I finished up replacing the plugs.. it doesn't seem to snap onto the sparkplug...

That could account for the sound that resembles an exhaust leak...

As for "changing the timing chain", that sounds off to me. The timing chain should outlast the engine. They almost never break and don't need replacement like timing belts.

If the PO replaced the chain and didn't replace the guides/tensioners, that speaks volumes...

[BABBLEMK77]

Originally Posted by wolferj

That could account for the sound that resembles an exhaust leak...

So I guess my first step is to replace wires. Any advice or recommendations?

[BABBLEMK77]

Originally Posted by wolferj

As for "changing the timing chain", that sounds off to me. The timing chain should outlast the engine. They almost never break and don't need replacement like timing belts.

If the PO replaced the chain and didn't replace the guides/tensioners, that speaks volumes...

Is it possible changing the tensioner could fix this? am I grasping at straws?

[wolferj-RIP]

Yes, changing the wires and tensioner might fix this.

I'm just an armchair mechanic, so please take my advice with a grain of salt (or two). I don't think you are grasping at straws, but it should be worth your time and money to get a professional opinion.

m42/m44 motors can last to 400k if cared for. They can break at any time if neglected. My best recommendation is to get a professional BMW tech to give it the once over.

Don't assume anything the PO said or did is true. I'm not suggesting that they are lying, but it just goes with the territory of buying a used car.

[BRADESTAR]

I don't know what that is. Vacuum leak?

Have you put a code reader on it? My '98 throws a "check engine" light on if I look at it wrong.

[BABBLEMK77]

I have no check engine light. I did when I picked it up, but it I put in a new maf and the check engine light went away after driving it around 30 miles.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Ok here is my 2 cents. It sounds to me like you need to replace the chain tensioner, I would assume the oil holes on your current tensioner are clogged and the tensioner is not "pumping up" with oil since I fairly sure I heard a loose chain slapping around. The tapping noise I believe is a hydraulic lifter that has a clogged oil hole so it can't "pump up" either.

Most likely you got a car that the owner did not change the oil and used a wax based cheep oil.

There are many small holes throughout the motor that require oil pressure to operate correctly. When sludge forms from not changing the oil for 20-30K miles the little holes on chain tensioners and lifters get clogged and then you get noises like I could hear in your video.

You could just take out the chain tensioner and clean it out with solvents and air pressure and maybe fix that chain slap. Also if you take off the valve cover you can clean out a lot of oil sludge if it is there and also find the collapsed lifter and replace or clean it well.

When you look at there parts you should see issues. Like take the tensioner as soon as you remove it and squeeze it down to the lock position and see if any oil comes out of the oil hole. A collaped lifter will be easy to find since the rocker arm on the bad lifter will be super loose.

Hope this helps, john S

***Warning, I'm making a internet guess on your motor issues, I have not been very good lately and most of my advice is not what I thought the issue was, you have been warned.***

[BABBLEMK77]

Thanks for the input Johnboy! I just purchased my first home, so the 318 is garaged for a few weeks until I can get her into a shop. I believe my best bet is to have an experienced certified BMW mechanic take a look and fix it. I wanted to do it myself, but I fear I might just open a can of worms doing it myself. Best to let the pros straighten it out.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

I agree with your decision to take it to a good mechanic
if you don't feel comfortable. Be careful my local dealer will put both hands on your shoulders no KY jelly and not even a reach around for what I consider very small jobs. Try to find someone you can trust and get all prices up front. I think any BMW service center will cost you big, They will change all chain guides, new tensioner, replace all lifters, all new gaskets, hazard disposal fees, etc.

Again I commend you for making the decision to not get into a project that might be above your current skill set. Just be careful with the dealer unless you have a friend that works there or maybe find a shop that works on euro cars
Best, John S

Originally Posted by BABBLEMK77

Thanks for the input Johnboy! I just purchased my first home, so the 318 is garaged for a few weeks until I can get her into a shop. I believe my best bet is to have an experienced certified BMW mechanic take a look and fix it. I wanted to do it myself, but I fear I might just open a can of worms doing it myself. Best to let the pros straighten it out.