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Old 02-14-2008, 09:21 PM  
dave45056
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Join Date: Apr 2006
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Default Oil Filter Housing Leak fix DIY

I hope this helps anyone with this problem.

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  #90  
By bazar01 on 12-19-2014, 08:05 PM
Default

Yes I replaced the o-rings too.
Now it is leaking again.

I already have the o-rings and gasket ready for tomorrow.
I will use a thin layer of hylomar gasket sealant this time.
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  #91  
By bmwman91 on 08-25-2015, 07:45 PM
Default

Hello folks,
I have a pretty sizable leak coming from my engine, and there is a lot of wetness around the filter housing, and even some slight puddling in the various nooks in front of the filter housing. I ordered up a Genuine BMW filter housing gasket and a new bush/valve thingy which will arrive soon.

My engine is a very custom 2.1L M42 with an M44 timing case (because it has a slightly larger oil pump, and it does not have the awful deflector sprocket that is so prone to failing on the M42), and it also uses the M44 oil filter housing. Anyway, regarding the black bush part, does anyone have a picture of the correct orientation for it when it is installed? I really want to make sure that I don't put it in backwards.

Thanks!
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  #92  
By bimbim on 08-25-2015, 07:54 PM
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make sure you look at how the old one comes out and just copy the orientation, or possibly reuse it if it looks ok, just replace the o-rings.

Use sealer on the flat gasket, and I also put a dab of sealer when I place the top of the oil filter cap on the housing, I have the metal one and it does not screw on which is a design flaw imo.
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  #93  
By bmwman91 on 08-25-2015, 09:34 PM
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bimbim View Post
make sure you look at how the old one comes out and just copy the orientation, or possibly reuse it if it looks ok, just replace the o-rings.

Use sealer on the flat gasket, and I also put a dab of sealer when I place the top of the oil filter cap on the housing, I have the metal one and it does not screw on which is a design flaw imo.
I put it all together a couple of years ago and had popped the bush/valve out. Am I safe to assume that it is oriented correctly in there now if the car was running fine and getting oil circulation? I'd imagine that putting it in backwards would prevent oil from flowing out the outlet and I would have some awful lifter noise.

I am thinking of using Permatex Copper gasket sealer spray on the flat gasket. Since I retrofitted the M44 housing with the plastic threaded cap, and I have never seen it leak, I guess I can skip the sealer on that. I had the older metal M42 one for a long time though...where on there were you putting sealer? I never had the cap leak on me.
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  #94  
By bimbim on 08-25-2015, 10:22 PM
Default

Right on the big O-ring, the silicone peels right off on the next oil change. Gaskets have to be super dry to stick good, the sealer allows you to cheat a little and make sure it don't leak, esp if returning to a customer. But yeah it leaked on me, maybe its a little warped. To answer the first part of your question I would say yes, the empirical data shows no damage.
Last edited by bimbim; 08-25-2015 at 10:28 PM..
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  #95  
By bmwman91 on 08-26-2015, 05:41 AM
Default

Interesting. Bummer to have a leak there!

I took the oil filter housing off this evening (new parts arrive in a couple of days). Being that the gasket and o-rings are only 2 years old, it is annoying that there is a leak like this, but it sounds like a number of people have had leak issues with this assembly, sometimes within a day of replacing the seals.

I made a couple of observations:
1) The o-rings on the bush are about as hard as a rock! I am amazed (and disappointed) that it only took 2 years and ~10,000 miles to make new ones get to this state. Anyway, it is what it is, and I am replacing the bush and o-rings.
2) ALL of the gasket and o-ring sealing surfaces (on the timing case and filter housing) had paint on them! The engine builder painted all of the aluminum bits with some nice silver/gray paint, which is very "aluminum" colored, which is why I did not notice it during initial assembly when everything was new. It would seem that they forgot to mask the parts before painting them. There was some paint caked against the edge of the o-rings, which was likely not helping anything. 90 minutes with some gloves, acetone and paper towels got all of it off of there and now all of the sealing surfaces are nice, clean aluminum.

So, I have my fingers crossed that when I put it all back together I will remain nice and dry now that things are properly cleaned!
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  #96  
By ledfoot2 on 08-29-2015, 09:15 PM
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Wish I had seen this before I tried to fix the leak the first time.
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  #97  
By bmwman91 on 08-30-2015, 01:14 AM
Default

I got mine all fixed up the other night. No more mess under the car (almost). A few drops make it out on the passenger side where the 2 profile gaskets' ends butt up against one another. I need to get in there and add some RTV between them. Anyway, that only causes a couple of drops since it is not under pressure like the filter housing is.

As it has been said in here (and as a general rule for wrenching), when you are dealing with gaskets, make sure that all of the surfaces that touch the gasket are IMMACULATE. No dirt, no dust, no old chunks of gasket, no oils, etc.
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  #98  
By Bimmerman318ti on 09-18-2015, 11:48 PM
Talking Help

Hey guys I know this thread is kinda old but I just got around to doing the housing gasket and bushing but as I was cleaning the housing I noticed the were 4 o rings with 4 plastic rings that were around the center post inside the housing. I looked every where and could not find the parts. If anyone one knows where these could be found that would be awesome
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  #99  
By DaddyBender on 02-15-2016, 12:02 AM
Default

Just did this fix on a 98ti. Only thing extra I did was to move the PS res. Just unbolted it and dropped it down. Made it way easier for my fat hands to get in there. My leak was a quart every 50 miles. 4 hours, start to finish. I didn't change the oil, but i did put a new filter in. No broken bolts. A bit of clarification: where the tutorial says to use a 16mm wrench on the tensioner. I think they meant to say a 16mm socket. I used a 1/2" drive 16mm socket. Drop the ratchet in to the left of the radiator hose. With the belt ON, I adjusted the ratchet till the handle was down near the water pump pulley. That way, as you release tension, the ratchet should stop close to the upper hose, but not touching it. The 4hr included running it till at operating temp. Only have four little drips on fresh cardboard. That's more than likely just some residual.

-Bender
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  #100  
By karibuni on 03-25-2016, 04:04 AM
Default Threadlocker on housing bolts?

Planning on doing this over the weekend and came across an interesting bit on Wikipedia regarding the M42:

"The second problem is far more significant - the upper oil pan casting incorporates the oil pump's supply passage, and is sealed to the crankcase oil filter housing with a paper gasket. Thermal cycles and engine vibration tend to loosen the six 10mm upper pan mounting bolts inside the motor.[5] Routinely, a loose 10mm bolt or two can be found rattling around high-mileage M42 sumps. If not caught in time, the paper gasket sealing the oil pickup passage can be forced into the crankcase by oil pressure, potentially causing a major loss of oil pressure and/or aeration of the motor oil. Thus it is strongly recommended that any new owner of an early M42 remove the lower pan to inspect these bolts. A permanent solution is to remove & clean the six internal 10mm bolts, apply a thread-locking sealant to the bolts, and re-assemble."
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_M42

The last bit really caught my eye...could this be a way to prevent future leaks by applying the threadlocker? Mine is 200K+ miles so I'm imagining this is the last time I do this job realistically - anybody ever tried that?
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  #101  
By DaddyBender on 03-25-2016, 05:45 AM
Default

The one I worked on is at 290k.

We don't know the history of the car, but its definatley seen better days. BTW. Only lost about a quart since doing the o-rings. I know the valve cover is leaking, but a quart over about 1,500 miles is WAY better than every 50 miles.

Just went to that wiki. Turns out mine is an m44.

Looks like mine could have the same bolt issue.
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  #102  
By Jake36ti on 03-25-2016, 02:20 PM
Default

Stay away from that man it's really unnecessary it's a paper gasket and rubber o-ring it's cheAp fix $5 tops and easy to do just did mine 195k lock tight ain't gonna stop it if it decides to leak again just clean good and you'll be solid


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  #103  
By karibuni on 03-31-2016, 09:57 PM
Default Bushing / Valve

Wrenched away for a while on this one last weekend, man that alternator is a beast! Got the gasket replaced but could not figure out for the life of me how to push the bushing / valve on.

Looking at this image

We are meant to push it straight into the "block" with the spring side facing the housing cover, but I did not try to jam it in there. My filter housing already has a protrusion there that would seemingly fit the valve, but I'd been going for so many hours I didn't want to force it and make a mistake.

I can confirm that there wasn't a bushing / valve there when I removed it however. Any tips?
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  #104  
By karibuni on 03-31-2016, 10:37 PM
Default

EDIT 2: Apparently on M42 there is just the 1 O-ring and no bush (search button is your friend , so I'll try and get this on over the weekend

http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthrea...filter+housing

EDIT: On the M42 are we just replacing the 1 O-Rings? My valve looks metal and not to be removed, so do I just take the O-ring off the bushing I ordered (tricky) and replace the one that is on there?

Looks like the protrusion from my oil filter housing that comes out is just stuck on there, as I recall it has the flattened O-ring that is sympotmatic of time / wear on these units. It's stuck in there pretty good! Will have to vice grip it out and replace with the new unit. Will do the recommended lube-ing of the new bush / valve to get it to fit into the Housing. There are still droplets of oil (not as bad as before) under the car, so looks like this will be another step to relieve that
Last edited by karibuni; 03-31-2016 at 10:53 PM..
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