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Old 09-09-2007, 02:55 AM  
CirrusSR22
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 1,587
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Default Cooling System Rebuild. PICS!

Cooling System Overhaul
1996 318ti Auto / M44.

Parts List

• Radiator, 17111728905 - $128 (ebay - AC Imports)
• OE Water Pump, 11510393338? - $79.82 (Tischer BMW)
• 1 Gallon...
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  #30  
By 5litrarag on 04-21-2008, 02:00 AM
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by elfhearse View Post
5litrarag

Did you try using the mounting bolts in other flange holes to lever out the pump, as in thread #23 ?? (pnchafin post)
yeah...thats how the flange itself broke. Following the removal directions.

I haven't had anymore time to fool with it yet.
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  #31  
By trickiekid on 06-14-2008, 03:57 PM
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Ok, i just rebuilt my cooling system and now it won't start at all I have an abs light and when I turn the key to start, nada, nothing. I double checked all the connections when I was reinstalling the squid, the only thing that I am questioning is the starter solenoid. I have the three prongs, 11, 1, and 5 o'clock positions (roughly) I have the two positive on the post for the two wires @ the 11 o'clock, the small ground at at the small post @ 1 o'clock and the fat ground at the 5 o'clock. Is this right? any other suggestions? My dad is borrowing my peake tool, I am going to see him tomorrow and take it back, any other suggestions? TIA
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  #32  
By elfhearse on 06-23-2008, 02:51 AM
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Quote:
I double checked all the connections when I was reinstalling the squid, the only thing that I am questioning is the starter solenoid. I have the three prongs, 11, 1, and 5 o'clock positions


See post #13

For future reference if anyone (like me) forgets where the starter wires go, here is a description.
Facing the starter solenoid from front of car:
(1) 14 ga. black wire mounts on pin at ~ 11 o'clock (#30)
(1) Red heavy ga. wire from battery mounts on large post at 2 o'clock
(1) 12 ga. black wire mounts on pin at ~ 5 o'clock (#50) below red cable
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  #33  
By trickiekid on 06-23-2008, 02:13 PM
Default

I saw that and ended up being something else. Here is the link http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22469
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  #34  
By jwm on 09-08-2008, 12:01 AM
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Did this job recently on my nearly 140,000-mile 1997 ti. In no particular order, some notes/tips:

* I removed the radiator and cooling fan immediately after draining the coolant. I'm pretty skinny and was able to stand in the engine compartment, which was a lot easier than bending over the whole time.

* The valve cover gasket was oozing and I planned to replace it, so I considered removing the valve cover before replacing the hard plastic connecting pipe at the rear of the head in hope of gaining easier access. I decided against it since it didn't seem to get me *that* much extra room, but if you have large hands, it might help. You'd probably want to replace the valve cover as soon as you're done with the water pipe, since there's still a lot of cooling and intake bits to replace at that point and having something fall unnoticed into the cam area would not be awesome.

* It doesn't seem possible to disconnect the M44 squid from the main wiring harness to leave the various sensor connectors in place while removing the lower intake. Most of the harness disconnects with screw-type quick release connectors near the engine compartment fuse box, but part of the harness (IIRC) passes through the firewall with no connectors. I didn't spend a lot of time pursuing this, so I might be missing a way around it.

* I removed the alternator to get easier access to the squid connectors and starter wiring. As a result, the only time I had to get under the car was to drain the coolant. The alternator is a bit of a pain to push out of (and back into) its mounting points, so it might be just as useful to remove the secondary air pump (toward the US driver's side, essentially next to the alternator). The air pump is a lot easier to get out and back in; just two or three easy-to-reach fasteners and it swings out of the way, opening a large space you can use to reach under the lower intake. This could also help during starter replacement, since it might be easier to access the starter's electrical connections from the top. I don't remember if the opening is large enough to remove the starter itself this way.

* Watch the tabs on the coolant temperature sensor (under the intake near the front of the block). I snapped one of mine off removing the electrical connector and decided to replace it, since it's ~US$20 and seems a bit harder to R&R with the intake in place.

* I forgot there's an upper-to-lower intake gasket on both the top and bottom of the PCV shim and only ordered one at first. Oops.

* This is a great time to lube your steering bearing (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=245961) if your steering squeaks since topside access is easy with everything out of the way.

* I also broke one of the water pump flange ears off when trying to press it out. Reusing the water pump fasteners to press it out is tough, since they aren't long enough for the heads to clear the water pump body when you thread one of them in. If you can find them, get some long M6 fasteners to use instead. I finally stood in the engine compartment, grabbed the pump with both hands (a claw hammer or some screwdrivers to pull on the pulley flange was probably involved at some point) and rocked/pulled backwards, trying to put as much of my body weight on the pump as possible while keeping it fairly square to the block. Curse a lot while doing this; it must have helped since the pump eventually popped out.

* Getting the new pump in was straightforward; again, standing in the engine compartment and pushing into the new pump helped. As CirrusSR22 mentioned, so does a light coating of white lithium grease on all the o-rings. The water pump and both plastic connecting pipes popped right in.

* The new pump (bought from the dealer) had a plastic impeller.

* If your car has ASC+T, there's a second throttle body upstream (toward the airbox) of the main throttle body. It operates in reverse; when the actuator pulls on the cable, the throttle plate closes, blocking intake air and decreasing power output. Nifty.

* My injectors were nearly as dirty as those pictured here. I cleaned them up carefully with some q-tips and solvent and have suffered no noticable ill effects. My lower intake also had a decent coating of oil and coke; intake cleaner sprayed copiously did a nice job of cleaning it up.

* I also used the understeer bleeding procedure. I was a little nervous about this since I've heard of people who have bled and bled their cars only to still have air in the system. Some have mentioned that it helps to raise the car to help direct air bubbles toward the radiator, so I tried that first. Fill the raditor up *as much as possible* before starting the engine, since the coolant level drops *fast*. All in all, it was pretty straightforward and I probably bled more than I had to, but once I decided I'd bled enough, the car was fine cockpit heat- and engine temperature-wise. It's helpful to keep the bleeder screw mostly down (don't remove it or loosen it too much, just crack it enough so coolant can escape). This seems to help keep a little pressure on the coolant and lets the maximum amount of air escape while losing the minimum amount of coolant. I bought two gallons of coolant just in case, and only needed one. At the end, I added 3-4 ounces of distilled water only (instead of mixing with coolant) since I didn't want to crack open the second gallon and only needed a small amount to bring the radiator up to the cold level.

* Relieving the fuel pressure wasn't a big deal. I had let the car sit overnight, and I'm not sure how much bleed-back there is. Cracking the fuel line fasteners loose resulted in a smallish dribble of fuel, easily caught with a rag or two stuffed underneath the two hard lines. The Bentley manual says you can also apply compressed air to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail to force any fuel back into the tank.

* LABEL. PHOTOGRAPH. DIAGRAM. Plenty of people preach this and it seems so simple, but I always find myself wanting to skimp on this, and it generally winds up hurting me. Having a sketch of the starter and alternator wiring connections was helpful. If you think you're wasting too much time taking photos or making notes, you're probably doing the right amount.
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  #35  
By churchill53 on 12-04-2008, 09:10 PM
Default

Got to say that this tutorial was of huge assistance, as am in the middle of doing this job on my wifes 318ti, and guess what? Bang on 130,000 miles which seems to be about the limit for these connectors! I have discovered that being a RHD model, the lower inlet manifold does not require full removal from the engine bay, and therefore only minor wiring disconnection is required. I have not needed to disconnect the solenoid or starter, and the space permitted by sliding the manifold off the mounting bolts still allows me to change the connector, manifold gaskets etc.
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  #36  
By zoner on 12-21-2008, 02:17 AM
Default

I just replaced my water pump today and had the same problems that apparently many others have had regarding breaking the threaded tabs off of the pump while trying to remove. Thanks to Cirrus, the claw hammer trick worked perfectly and the pump came right out.

One question I did have (for anyone that cares to answer), The thermostat that I installed was a 92* (I was told that was the OEM temp) but the one I pulled out was an 88* Thyssen (apparently, the original thermostat and pump- 153k miles!!) The gauge still rides right in the center. Should I be concerned about the temp. difference?
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  #37  
By E36BeeminZ on 08-19-2009, 04:57 AM
Default

Hey im doing an engine swap from a 1994 m42 318i to a 1995 m42 318i. How did you guys get the "squid" engine harness off without being able to disconnect it like the M44 one? I cant find where the lower wires that come from the bottom of the harness go to? How to I reach them? I was working from above so do i need to sneak in through the bottom? THANKS ALOT!!
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  #38  
By CirrusSR22 on 09-23-2009, 03:04 AM
Default Work Update

Last winter I started having trouble with very cold starts with my ti. I think I tracked it down to a vacuum leak somewhere, so I just did work to fix that. Since it involves taking the engine apart, like doing the cooling system, I highly recommend replacing the following parts while you're in there as they are rather cheap.

The goal for this project was to replace every vacuum hose and o-ring that could lead to a vacuum leak in cold weather.

Parts:
• Fuel Injector O-Rings: 13641743377 (4x)
• Fuel Line O-Ring (replace, as long as the fuel rail is off): 13531247953
• DISA O-Ring: 11611437690
• Vacuum hose between the intake boot and injector vacuum hose "Tree": 13411247782 (no ASC part#)
• 3' of Goodyear 5/16" (7.9mm) Fuel/Emission Hose, Auto Zone. Approx $1.19/ft.
http://www.goodyearep.com/productsdetail.aspx?id=10526

• 1' of Goodyear 5/16" (7.9mm) Fuel Injection Hose, AutoZone. Approx. $3.39/ft
http://www.goodyearep.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=5144
-----------------

I replaced the roughly 3" segment of fuel-rail hose with the Goodyear Fuel Injection hose. As you can see from the link above, it's a special high pressure, specially lined hose just for fuel injection supply. Do not use the standard fuel hose. That's for the vacuum work.

The top hose is the higher quality injection hose and the bottom is the emission hose.

--

Here's the new Goodyear injection hose on the left next to the little segment that connects to the fuel rail. This is an optional step, but it's worth it when you're in there. I think this hose can also be used when replacing your fuel filter. I know the hose at my fuel filter connections is in bad shape.

--

Next I replaced the fuel injector o-rings that seal the injector to the manifold. Surprisingly my injectors are MUCH cleaner at 185,000 than they were at 158,000 when I did the orginal project. I've been using the new BP gas with Invigorate a lot lately. Maybe that actually works?

--
Old, squished O-ring.

--

New, fresh o-ring, lubed with brake caliper grease. I hear that's a good choice for injectors since it's rubber safe.
Last edited by CirrusSR22; 09-25-2009 at 01:40 AM..
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  #39  
By CirrusSR22 on 09-23-2009, 03:11 AM
Default

Next I tackled the injector vacuum "tree" which is getting notorious for hard, brittle hoses that crack. See elfhearse's picture above! Mine were not as bad, but were definitely starting to crack. They were also getting extremely hard.

Following elfhearse's advice, I found the Goodyear 5/16" (7.9mm) fuel/emission hose to be a perfect fit. I suggest slicing the old hoses off with a razor.

Cut replacement hoses from your 3' section of emision hose and reassemble the tree. You'll need no more than 2' of the Goodyear emission hose which will be under $2.50. You can also buy a new tree assembly from BMW for about $26. Replace the larger vacuum hose that runs from the tree to the intake boot as well.

Orginal tree.

--

Hoses removed

--


New hoses fitted. The tightly bent hose is a little finicky because the factory hose is molded to that curve, whereas the emission hose kinks a bit when you bend it that tight. It takes a little squeezing/working of the hose to remove that slight kink. That's the only downside I can think of by using the Goodyear emision hose vs. a new factory tree. Thankfully you can make the curves of your replacement hose larger than the factory hoses as there's no need to make an EXACT reproduction of the factory hose. All this is doing is carrying a little vacuum.

--

After that, I used the remaining portion of the emission hose to replace the section that runs from the throttle body to the "fuel tank breather valve". Not sure what this valve does, but it's electrically controlled and it sits between this vacuum hose and the carbon filter.

The hose in question:

--


Simply replace this hose with the remaining emission hose. The original hose is molded to keep it from touching the alternator. I found I needed to use a little electrical tape (or zip tie) and attach it to the bottom of the intake boot to provide clearance from the alternator.

While everything was out, I also replaced the o-ring that seals the DISA valve to the lower intake manifold. Just remove the three bolts holding on the DISA valve, use a pick to remove the old o-ring, and install the new one using some synthetic caliper grease. Make sure you clean the bore the DISA valve goes into first with a clean rag.

Also, use a pick and replace the tiny o-ring that's in the hard fuel rail connection. Probably not necessary, but might as well as you have everything apart.
Last edited by CirrusSR22; 07-19-2013 at 10:31 PM..
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  #40  
By DLag on 11-27-2009, 05:57 AM
Default

Took advantage of the long weekend and tackled this job. It makes it easier to take the valve cover off, I changed the valve cover while I was at it. btw thanks for the info.
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  #41  
By CirrusSR22 on 12-08-2009, 12:24 AM
Default

As an update, I highly recommend using some sealant (like RTV silicone) on the mating surfaces of the two plastic coolant connectors. Both of mine have leaked since I have done this.

I think I'm going to replace these again this coming spring to fix leaks. I'm going to use a film of rubber safe grease on the bore and o-ring so they slide in better. I'll also use silicone where the machined face of the block & head meets the face of the plastic connector. Or, possibly just use silcone all over as both a lubricant and sealant.
Last edited by CirrusSR22; 12-08-2009 at 12:30 AM..
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  #42  
By Scootsalng on 03-12-2010, 06:00 AM
Default Water Pump...

Everyone talks about replacing the water pump as tough, it appears mine 1998 1.9l has a cam chain cover that covers the left flange of the water pump. Nobody has talked about that being an issue.. I already broke one of the screw tabs and am worried to death to really mess anything else up.. I need a little guidance from the PROS! Thanks, Scott
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  #43  
By spidertri on 03-12-2010, 06:33 AM
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I have a '98 and once the plastic pulley was off the water pump there was nothing else blocking it. Not sure what you are talking about, maybe a picture would help?
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  #44  
By Mr.Squeelerz on 04-26-2010, 04:37 AM
Default

I've been having fun with this project, but I hit a snag with the block coolant connector. The new one appears to be defective. It will not seat to the block. There is a 1/4 inch gap almost all the way around, so it CLEARLY will not seal. Not even going to attempt modifying anything to make it work. I prefer this part to be genuine BMW. The URO brand looks to have a poor mold design.

My old head connector was rotted beyond belief. Pretty much crumbled in my hands.
Last edited by Mr.Squeelerz; 04-26-2010 at 04:46 AM..
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