door locks

robcarync · 11-09-2006, 05:10 PM

the other day, something strange happened.

i got out of my car, stuck the key in the driver side door, turned the key and nothing happened. i can no longer unlock or lock my car from the driver side door, i have to go to the trunk or passenger side door to get it locked/unlocked.

keyless entry still works, just that part of my remote broke so it doesnt stay on the key chain anymore and makes it annoying to carry around.

i havent taken the door apart or anything to inspect the locking mechanism, but has this happened to anyone else on here?

pnosker · 11-09-2006, 05:58 PM

You have a bad actuator in your drivers side door. Search door actuator, it happened to me and there's a guide to fixing it in the KB I think. You have to remove the door panel and unbolt the door lock mechanism from the door. It's not that hard but it's painful if you can't fit your fingers in the door hole.

3DGE · 11-09-2006, 09:30 PM

For me I have to use the key to lock the driver door, the keyless entry will not lock the driver side door.. Any guesses?

robcarync · 11-09-2006, 09:41 PM

sweet ive been doing a few searches and found some information...

i read somewhere that the actuator is behind the glovebox...and i also read that there is one in each door...so can anyone clarify that? what is the difference between the ones in the door and the one behind the glovebox....or i think i may be confused with whats going on here...i will check bentley and do some more searches...

im assuming i should inspect the locking actuator on the faulty door and check the wiring make sure the connections are legit and it seems to me that it might just be a loose connection since it does nothing when i turn the key.

pnosker · 11-09-2006, 10:40 PM

3dge, you have an actuator problem too.

The actuator is in each door. The keyless entry actuator is in the glove box, but that's not what's broken in either of your situations. The locking actuator is frozen (they used white lithium for original spec) and needs to be replaced. It's around $70 I believe from pelican parts. I suggest trying to find someone parting out their car for one. Wiring has nothing to do with it. The connector is a sliding lock. Its job is to sense when the door is locked and also unlocks the door when you press the button on your keyless entry or use another door to unlock. Since it's frozen, it can't communicate at all.

3DGE · 11-10-2006, 12:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pnosker

3dge, you have an actuator problem too.

The actuator is in each door. The keyless entry actuator is in the glove box, but that's not what's broken in either of your situations. The locking actuator is frozen (they used white lithium for original spec) and needs to be replaced. It's around $70 I believe from pelican parts. I suggest trying to find someone parting out their car for one. Wiring has nothing to do with it. The connector is a sliding lock. Its job is to sense when the door is locked and also unlocks the door when you press the button on your keyless entry or use another door to unlock. Since it's frozen, it can't communicate at all.

Am I able to take the good one from the other door and put it on the drivers door? I dont need the lock for the other door.

iananderson02 · 11-10-2006, 03:56 AM

just to elaborate on the function of the actuators/keyless entry system. as others have said the actuators are in each door, the hatch and the gas door. the central locking module is behind the glovebox. their operation is basically this:

doors: when locking with the key the door being locked is physically locked. at the same time a microswitch, attached to the back of the lock cylinder, is tripped which in turn sends an electrical signal to the ZKE (or ZVM for early e36 cars) module (sometimes called the central locking module, body electronics module, general module or basic module). the ZKE module then sends an electrical signal to each of the other lock actuators, which act as motors to physically lock the others doors. when unlocking the same chain of events happens, except the polarity sent to the lock actuators is reversed therefore unlocking the doors.

hatch/trunk: the trunk lock actuator works very similarly but slightly differently. the trunk lock actuator acts as both the actuator and the lock microswitch. the trunk lock cylinder is connected to the actuator directly. locking the car from the trunk turns the lock mechanism and also moves the trunk lock actuator pushrod to the "locked position" in this position an electrical connection is made in an internal microswitch that essentially completes a circuit between two of the three small wires. when unlocking the common wire and the other of the three small wires are connected internally. this signal is then sent to the ZKE module which tells the other doors to lock or unlock. when locking from the doors the two larger wires connected to the trunk lock actuator provide voltage to the actuator to act as the motor to lock or unlock the trunk. alternating polarity at these wires allows the actuator to provide both lock and unlocking functions.

simple enough?
anyone have anything to add?

-ian

P.S. what others have said is correct, you both need new lock actuators and/or lock microswitches (but most likely just actuators)...

pnosker · 11-10-2006, 05:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3DGE

Am I able to take the good one from the other door and put it on the drivers door? I dont need the lock for the other door.

I seem to remember them being different in each door... in fact I'm almost positive. Also, it wouldn't be worth it. It took me 2 hours to remove and install just one actuator in my car.

iananderson02 · 11-10-2006, 02:49 PM

actually the front door lock actuators are the same on both sides, bmw part
#67 11 1 387 726, about $100 from the dealer, cheaper elsewhere
but seriously, it's a bit of a pain to remove them, don't be cheap and bastardize your car, fix it right!

pnosker · 11-10-2006, 02:58 PM

Hmm, really? I thought the actuators have a clip that work only one way to hold onto the locking mechanism. Either way, iananderson02 is right, don't screw it up for a part you probably will only have to replace once in your car's life.

robcarync · 11-11-2006, 10:23 PM

alright thanks guys....i thought i read while searching that one person had a wire that came loose from the actuator or something and he just secured it and it worked again....but yes i see the lock actuator on bavauto for 70 bucks...thanks for the insight guys!

pnosker · 11-12-2006, 05:03 AM

I guess that's possible, but its attachment mechanism is pretty well made I think. It's a sliding clip which definitely won't come out unless someone physically undoes it. It took a lot of force to move mine.

3DGE · 12-05-2006, 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pnosker

I seem to remember them being different in each door... in fact I'm almost positive. Also, it wouldn't be worth it. It took me 2 hours to remove and install just one actuator in my car.

I just took my door pannel off and had a look, IDK where to start looking, can someone make a tutorial on how to fix this? Image of any type would be helpful.

pnosker · 12-06-2006, 12:44 AM

3DGE, Peel off the rubber foam protective layer, if it's on the pass. door, look to the right. If on the driver's side, look to the left. It's behind the steel door structure. You're going to have to unbolt the door lock mechanism from the door by removing the 3 torx screws attached. Then you should be able to slide it closer to you. It's in a very hard to reach area and is very annoying to remove. It takes a couple of hours to do.

Google "E36 Door Actuator Guide"

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