» Site Navigation | | » Recent Threads | | | | | | | | HOW TO: Change Brake Pads All about brake pads Published by BleMW 05-17-2007 | HOW TO: Change Brake Pads Brake pads Changing these is easy as the car has no drums! Safety comes 1st! - some guidelines Ensure the car is securely located on axle stands (never a jack) Reinstall brake items exactly Press the brake pedal a couple of times before driving off to settle things and remember to readjust the handbrake (if applicable) Test the brakes immediately after moving off to check everything is functioning Torque all fittings correctly, including the wheels Avoid straining caliper hoses by supporting them with twine or wire Always use non-asbestos pads. If you are unsure of the pad material, hose out the caliper before starting work (obviously don't drive with wet brakes!) Remember that it could take 200-500 miles of driving to match the pads to the disc shape (due to wear of either) and many pads need to settle under use - so don't expect full brake performance for some time Sports / very hard pads may need to heat up to operate properly. Changing pads: Time (per wheel) = 15minutes Task=Easy This is easy enough... Push back the pads as far as they will go. I use a large screwdriver - there are plenty of ways of doing it - but just be careful not to damage the rubber seal for the caliper piston. Check that the brake fluid resevoir will not overflow when you push back the caliper pistons (I use a large syringe to suckout excess fluid). I lever a large screwdriver against the old pads to do this. A G clamp could also be used. Undo the two 7mm allen headed bolts (prise off the dust caps first), not the 19mm caliper frame bolts. You may need a 12"/300mm extension. Girling calipers use a 13mm bolt instead and need a 15mm open end spanner to prevent the guide pin from turning. On the front wheels it may help to turn the relevent wheel inwards to allow easier access. In theory, only one bolt needs to be undone to allow the caliper to open but I have never succeeded on my ATE's! I am reliably informed that this is definetly true for Girlings. Seperate the caliper, tie it up with a piece of wire/string to keep strain off the hose and remove the pads. Sit the new pads in place. Locate the bottom part of the removed part of the caliper in its recess and loosely fit the lower slide pin (ATE). Checking that the anti-rattle springs on the pads are properly placed against the caliper, swing in the top part and refit the upper slide pin. Tighten up all caliper bolts, Insert the dust caps and refit the wheels Press the brake pedal a few times to move the pads towards the discs. Remember that it will take some time for the brakes to bed into the discs so take it easy for maybe 100 miles. If you come across a wear sensor, simply pull it out of its slot on the inside (piston) pad and replace it the new pad taking care to orientate it correctly. Note that front sensor is held in place with a pin. Once the wear sensor has activiated (i.e. the wear light came on the dashboard) it will have to be replaced by unplugging the old one from its connector at the rear of the hub/caliper and replacing it. | Tutorial Tools | | | | | | | | Currently Active Users Viewing This Tutorial: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | | Tutorial Tools | | Display Modes | Linear Mode | Posting Rules | You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is On | | | |
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