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Old 03-25-2009, 08:15 PM   #1
Ray Cism
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Default Timing Chain Cover Gasket

Does anyone know if you need to remove the head in order to change the upper and lower timing chain cover gaskets?
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Old 03-25-2009, 08:30 PM   #2
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no, you do not - but the water pump + the timing chain may have to go...
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Old 03-25-2009, 09:14 PM   #3
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Ok. I guess I'll figure it out once I start pulling it apart. I really don't want to pull the head off if I don't have to. So your response is making me feel a bit better about doing it. The dealership quoted me 1200 to do the timing chain cover gaskets and oil pan gaskets. There's no way I'm paying them to do it.
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Old 03-26-2009, 01:47 PM   #4
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get yourself a Bently Manual - do not even attempt without it.

good luck...
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Old 03-26-2009, 04:03 PM   #5
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I can't find a specific 318ti Bently manual. Is this the one I should get? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...#ht_500wt_1610
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Old 03-26-2009, 05:25 PM   #6
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That one is correct... There is no ti-specific manual.
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Old 03-26-2009, 05:31 PM   #7
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thanks. I bought the BMW shop manual cd off of Ebay for $10 but it's hard to find exactly what I'm looking for. This Bently manual should be easier to follow.
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Old 03-26-2009, 07:25 PM   #8
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thats the one you need / I have... it includes our cars pretty well.

that thing is your bible - you also may wanna get '101 bmw projects' from Pelican Parts...

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Originally Posted by 318 View Post
I can't find a specific 318ti Bently manual. Is this the one I should get? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...#ht_500wt_1610
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Metric Mechanic's 2.0 stroker/258' intake cam/42 lb. inj./remap/HD fuel pump
/DASC w.3' pulley @ 15psi/SNOW System/3.45 LSD/Billstein PSS coils
/Stromung Exhaust/DS1's/X-Brace/Front & Rear H&R Sways/OMP 300mm SW
/SAP delete/ASC+T delete/Hayabusa valve springs/MM's LTW flywheel
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Old 03-31-2009, 11:01 PM   #9
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Does anyone have a recommendations on what I should replace while I have the timing chain cover and oil pan off?
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Old 04-01-2009, 12:21 AM   #10
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not sure how the chain tensioner works in an m42/4 but i would replace that. On the m50 you don't even have to take the timing case off.
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Old 04-01-2009, 05:45 PM   #11
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+1 on the tensioner - if those things go, you are f-ed.

also, change the water pump & the t-stat if you got the money - it never hurts.

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not sure how the chain tensioner works in an m42/4 but i would replace that. On the m50 you don't even have to take the timing case off.
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Metric Mechanic's 2.0 stroker/258' intake cam/42 lb. inj./remap/HD fuel pump
/DASC w.3' pulley @ 15psi/SNOW System/3.45 LSD/Billstein PSS coils
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Old 04-01-2009, 09:26 PM   #12
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Thanks for the advice.
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Old 04-28-2009, 02:42 PM   #13
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Default Special Tools?

I've been busy getting all the gaskets to do the timing chain cover (upper and lower) and the oil pan (looks like a lot of work). I'm going to start at it tonight. One question though.

There's a special tool required to hold the camshafts in place while removing the timing chain. I'm going to be real careful in removing all the sprockets and mark everything really well. HAS ANYONE ELSE DONE THE TIMING CHAIN WITHOUT THIS TOOL?

I've done SOHC timing belts before but never a DOHC timing chain.

I picked up the Bentley manual so other than this I'm ready to go.
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Old 04-28-2009, 02:54 PM   #14
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Being careful is not enough.
you need to have at least a flywheel lock (basically a pin which fits thru the flywheel), and sonthing to hold the camshafts in the right position. A Rigid Chain Tensioner is helpful, too.
You can really screw up your engin if you get the valve timing wrong.
Look in the knowledge base. I posted drawings of the tools. Also there is a simplified cam locking plate drawing in the Haynes manual.

The problem you run into doing this without the tools is that things move or get moved very often when you are working on an engine. Going by marks is pretty tough.
By the way, is it necessary to remove the chain to do what you are doing? I thought it was gaskets only?

One more thing... get some "Right Stuff"
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm
You only want to do this once and getting the profile gaskit in will be tough without taking the head off.
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Old 04-28-2009, 03:02 PM   #15
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I need to get to the rear lower profile gasket which requires the crankshaft pulley removed so I can take the rear cover off and replace all the gaskets. I'm going to see if a local shop will lend me the camshaft tool. I doubt it though. As for the flywheel lock I have something that will work.

That permatex gasket stuff, do you put it in your oil and then it plugs up the leaks? I'm scared of what else it may plug up if that's what it is.
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