Turbo kit interest

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Originally Posted by antny

I understand the injectors are scaled for the right pulse and width. You need to be able to make corrections to timing across the power band for power and knock correction. I am not a fan of just a reflashed ecu. Do they work? Absolutely! Is it the best for every single car? Not so much. I had my previous cars dyno tuned because of elevation and fuel are different in different locations hence why I would want to go to a standalone. I have never really heard many good things about megasquirt. Do you know how midnight tuning actually reflashes the DME? Is it software that is available to the general populace like opensource ecu is for Subaru's and Evo's? I just am leery because Oklahoma fuel sucks and have left alot of horsepower on the table for pump fuel maps in the past. I would like to be able to either be able to street tune the car or get it on the rollers. It gets pretty hot here in the summers and would like to be able to retard some timing and boost. I would probably definitely use meth injection and am a big fan of the aquamist system for their failsafes. Thanks for all the info so far its been helpful. I know you have gone down the path already and have done the leg work in which I am thankful. The engine management part is the part that concerns me especially going NA-t.

You should talk to Barrie directly at Midnight. On flashing yes I fully understand since I do the US flash work. I use a bench flasher with battery back-up and line conditioner. All tunes are not a base tune you need to log with a LM-2 and send those logs to Barrie to get the correct tune...

[antny]

Gotcha, thanks for the info.

[angus]

Originally Posted by antny

Can timing be adjusted with the coding? Have a write up on your setup so I dont have to bug you constantly lol? I am a boost junkie so I would rather boost this car than swap the motor. I think 200-225 whp would make this car even more enjoyable. What stand alones are out for the car? I understand tuning is just as vital as correct parts choices. I am coming from a daily driven 400 awhp Subaru Legacy GT so I get the FI route.

The kit I am going to design will be aimed at people who would like reliable, reasonable yet significant gains (200 to 300 hp).

On the low side of those gains ( and yes John, I FULLY hear you when you have said over and over how you do not like it) I see nothing wrong with the FMU or rising rate regulator, it can easily support 5-8 psi maybe a little more and definitely with the use of a good water/ meth setup.

It all comes down to the tuning as has already been said, and if the scores of commercially available kits for seemingly every car on the road are any indication, the FMU can certainly handle at least the entry level enthusiast's needs.

Who's to say that down the road one will not decide to either leave the car well enough alone at 5-8 psi or go crazy and then get a reflash to support 30psi?

In the end what I hope to design is a kit that will be easy to install, supply good response and reasonable power - anyone who wants to build a 30psi monster can (please read "should" be able to) afford to get a fully custom setup and thus should not be looking at my "simple" affordable kit.

[antny]

More power to you and I hope you are successful in this project. Seems like this car needs more options in the additional power department. Just take your time and do it right. Dont short cut anything in the R&D and hope your ready to make your car the test mule. I have been in the position where there wasn't many options for the car when it came to power adders. I modded my LGT when there was slim pickings in parts and it got expensive very quick but I was able to achieve my goal. Let me know if you need someone to test some parts on. My primary means of transportation is my R1 because it is just a hell of a lot funner than any car I have been in. So I dont mind being a test mule also if the results look promising. I would much rather run an intercooled setup though.

[angus]

Originally Posted by antny

More power to you and I hope you are successful in this project. Seems like this car needs more options in the additional power department. Just take your time and do it right. Dont short cut anything in the R&D and hope your ready to make your car the test mule. I have been in the position where there wasn't many options for the car when it came to power adders. I modded my LGT when there was slim pickings in parts and it got expensive very quick but I was able to achieve my goal. Let me know if you need someone to test some parts on. My primary means of transportation is my R1 because it is just a hell of a lot funner than any car I have been in. So I dont mind being a test mule also if the results look promising. I would much rather run an intercooled setup though.

I am of course going to do my own car first, I may also offer some discounted kits to those willing to do testing.

As far as intercooling, it will be available either way since it will not be necessary for those only looking for an extra 50-60 hp or so.

[Lowerclassmen]

Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx

I use the Motronic M5.2 OEM DME that comes with the 1997+ M44 motor. DME last numbers are 668. I have it custom coded by Barrie at Midnight tuning. He has tunes for 30#, 42.8# and 60# injectors. I currently run the 60# injectors so I can boost 25+psi if needed. I like to use the OEM DME so I retain all BMW factory functions. Also I run a 1995 M3 MAF sensor (3") which is a direct plug in but the MAF code table needs to be changed to accept the larger MAF. Barrie has all the code for the MAF swap, injectors I listed above and I have tested each code on my car as I stepped up boost and needed more fuel by using larger injectors. My car drives like a stock BMW until I hit boost then all hell breaks loose

I use style EV-1 injectors with a adapter that fits the injector to the manifold and run stock fuel pressures.

I have tried stand-alone systems and not had good luck. The OEM DME coded correctly is the best by far...

Oh yea stock fuel pump with stock regulator but regulator hooked to manifold vacuum/boost port so I get 42psi fuel pressure at idle and under boost around 52psi. This is the rising fuel pressure I use on all Barries tunes on all injectors he has tunes for. There are 60+ tunes he has for the turbo I-4 for the various injectors listed above. All of these were done with LM-2 logging and the final tunes are damn near perfect on AFR. Lambda control is fully there and open-loop under boost has no lean spots or any ping since we monitor this stuff in real time on the LM-2...

John S

Johnny boy i have a few questions about this turbo kit because i have installed the same one you have from fast way racer and i have it working with an aem fic6 piggyback controller but only running 5lbs of boost so far and your saying that the ( OEM DME ) is the best for boost im confused on what that is? is it the factory computer and your saying all i have to do is get it remapped and if so where can i send it to have this done. Pretty much what im trying to get at is i need more boost.

Lowerclassmen

[angus]

Originally Posted by Lowerclassmen

Johnny boy i have a few questions about this turbo kit because i have installed the same one you have from fast way racer and i have it working with an aem fic6 piggyback controller but only running 5lbs of boost so far and your saying that the ( OEM DME ) is the best for boost im confused on what that is? is it the factory computer and your saying all i have to do is get it remapped and if so where can i send it to have this done. Pretty much what im trying to get at is i need more boost.

Lowerclassmen

If you have it up and running off the FIC then I woud stick to it, you can turn up the boost no problem.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Originally Posted by Lowerclassmen

Johnny boy i have a few questions about this turbo kit because i have installed the same one you have from fast way racer and i have it working with an aem fic6 piggyback controller but only running 5lbs of boost so far and your saying that the ( OEM DME ) is the best for boost im confused on what that is? is it the factory computer and your saying all i have to do is get it remapped and if so where can i send it to have this done. Pretty much what im trying to get at is i need more boost.

Lowerclassmen

OEM is your original DME that came with the car. It gets re-mapped with a custom flash for the turbo setup. Barrie at Mid Night has the flashes and you can run 30# injectors(0-14psi), 42.8# injectors (0-18psi) and #60 injectors (0-28psi). You really want to match the injectors to your max boost so the Open-loop timing is at its max for your application. There are no stand-alone or piggy back systems that run as good as a re-flashed DME. Your car will drive completely stock like a BMW should and be able to detect and handle the boost when it comes on.

You need a 1995 M3 or 328i MAF sensor also to run the code since it is setup for the larger MAF which is a direct plug in. If you don't change the MAF to the larger one the stock 2.5" one will peg at lower boost levels

I run #60 injectors and vary boost from 10psi up to 29psi which is the max boost I've hit this motor with. I run 15psi daily and step up boost if needed as soon as I'm in 3rd gear. I get over 30mpg in Lambda and open-loop is perfect on my LM-2 logs.


Stock injectors are 19# and can't handle more then 5psi boost unless you use a RRFPR and pound the fuel through it which stresses your fuel pump. Also the stock DME will not react well to a RRFPR which is something I found out by testing.

I don't run the fastway kit. I run a custom kit but purchased parts from him.

John Smith

[bryan413]

A kit where you can keep A/C would have me sold.

[angus]

Originally Posted by bryan413

A kit where you can keep A/C would have me sold.

My kit will not delete the A/C or I will not make it.

[Lowerclassmen]

Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx

OEM is your original DME that came with the car. It gets re-mapped with a custom flash for the turbo setup. Barrie at Mid Night has the flashes and you can run 30# injectors(0-14psi), 42.8# injectors (0-18psi) and #60 injectors (0-28psi). You really want to match the injectors to your max boost so the Open-loop timing is at its max for your application. There are no stand-alone or piggy back systems that run as good as a re-flashed DME. Your car will drive completely stock like a BMW should and be able to detect and handle the boost when it comes on.

You need a 1995 M3 or 328i MAF sensor also to run the code since it is setup for the larger MAF which is a direct plug in. If you don't change the MAF to the larger one the stock 2.5" one will peg at lower boost levels

I run #60 injectors and vary boost from 10psi up to 29psi which is the max boost I've hit this motor with. I run 15psi daily and step up boost if needed as soon as I'm in 3rd gear. I get over 30mpg in Lambda and open-loop is perfect on my LM-2 logs.


Stock injectors are 19# and can't handle more then 5psi boost unless you use a RRFPR and pound the fuel through it which stresses your fuel pump. Also the stock DME will not react well to a RRFPR which is something I found out by testing.

I don't run the fastway kit. I run a custom kit but purchased parts from him.

John Smith

Where is Barrie at Mid Night located because id like to purchase a reflashed dme and if my car is a 1998 would i need to get a 1995 m3 maf or a 1996-1999 m3 maf since 1995 is obd1 and 1996+ is obd2

Also i have larger injectors and a walbro fuel pump so i can push fuel, and how much boost did you run daily on your motor before it was built because i read that you ran 15psi for 50,000 k.

[Lowerclassmen]

Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx

I've put 15psi to a completely stock M44 for 50,000 miles and retired that motor at 173,000 as a core. The core was in perfect condition per Metric Mechanic

It would be nice to see a complete plug and play turbo kit. I would like to see any ideas on the oil pan return without oil pan removal to install the bung. I'm all ears and very open to neat/new ways to do this.

Thanks, John S

I have a way to run the oil pan return line without removing the oil pan i can send you a picture of what i did if you would like

[My98Rot]

I'm loving this idea. Honestly I think there would be a pretty good market for a legitimate kit like this. (even more so if they're compatible with all M44's) If the end result could see 200+whp then you'd absolutely have my business. Please please please do this. As someone who knows zilch about FI it would be amazing to have respectable power without a swap or trying to piece together a custom kit on my own.

[angus]

Yes, as I stated earlier my goal will be a plug and play kit that is simple and reliable and produces around 200WHP with the option to go higher - I think about 5-7PSI will do it and still be dead reliable.

[angus]

Originally Posted by Lowerclassmen

I have a way to run the oil pan return line without removing the oil pan i can send you a picture of what i did if you would like

In the interest of making this kit easy to install, I am going to test having the oil drain go into the drain bolt as it is done on the GReddy turbo kit for the H22 prelude - this uses a banjo bolt to drain back into the pan at the drain plug, it works because the hose will only fill with oil up to the oil level in the pan, thus the part of the drain hose that is above the level of oil in the pan will be empty, allowing the turbo to drain.

Years ago when GReddy started doing this I debated how it would work, but it has long since been proven so I will test it on the ti.