Project 332ti begins!!!

[Marv17]

hey jess, you going to do the Fan Delete Mod?
i've been thinking about doing it recently, wanted to see what your input was on it.

[cooljess76]

Originally Posted by Marv17

hey jess, you going to do the Fan Delete Mod?
i've been thinking about doing it recently, wanted to see what your input was on it.

Hey Marv, As of now, I plan on keeping the clutch fan. The one I have looks brand new, no cracks or wear. I might delete it later down the road, but we'll see. I'll just be happy to get the dang thing running. If you're considering deleting yours, I highly recommend doing the complete mod. Especially in the OC heat. Get the lower temp t-stat, stewart water pump and water wetter. I just got an ECStuning 8% OVER-drive aluminum water pump pulley and a Mishimoto radiator which has a slightly higher capacity than the stock radiator. The radiator also comes with a Lifetime "no questions asked" Accident Protection Warranty, so if anything happens, even if it's my fault or I crash my car, they'll replace it for free! You might consider picking one up along with an electric fan and shroud. If I end up doing the FDM, I'm definitely going to run an electric fan and aluminum shroud. FWIW, I think HuGo did the FDM.

Originally Posted by b.u.ti-ful

Nice machine work!

Thanks Neal, my skills are improving. It's not perfect though, the moving vise jaw tilts upward when you tighten it down, so I've had to compensate with shims. All of the important parts on the cam tool are square, but the ends and the top are off by about 1/2 a mm. I also accidentally drilled/tapped an extra hole on one side. I spaced out and forgot that the end pieces need to be machined to rest on the head profile and accidentally drilled my hole too low. No biggie though, it doesn't affect the tools function. Here's how it looks completed:

[Jean H.318TI]

that radiator is sexyyyy, i want something like that for my car too, do u think would be too hard to use the m3 radiator and some custom hoses and make it work?

[cooljess76]

BTW, I figured out a solution for the rigid chain tensioning tool. I've been looking all over for a tool that fits the S52. There's plenty of them listed for the M52, but I couldn't find or confirm that it fits the S52. So with a little creativity, I discovered that if you remove the spring-loaded hydraulic piston from the factory primary chain tensioner(bolts into the side of the head, you can stick a 3/8 drive 2" extension inside of the tensioner body, then thread it into the side of the head hand tight until it stops. This keeps steady pressure on the plastic timing chain guide while you're torquing down the cam sprockets. Hope that helps someone, I'll post pics when I do it.

[budget76]

Jess, got a link for the waterpump overdrive pulley? Just went on ECS and couldn't find it. Can you run the stock/regular length serpentine belt, or do you have to find a different length with it?

Also, I remember you had problems a while back with getting sent an ugly alt. Still got that kicking around? Haven't talked to dad, but mom said he thinks the alt crapped out on him in the Z3 this morning. If you're looking to get rid of it I may be interested.

Jean, if you decide to find custom hoses, find a buddy in a store that sells hoses and search around for a while. Done one or two custom rad swaps, and they're a PITA if you can't just dig in the bin/shelf. I went with a CXracing one off ebay, got 20k miles on it with zero problems besides replacing the drain plug O-ring once

[cooljess76]

Originally Posted by Jean H.318TI

that radiator is sexyyyy, i want something like that for my car too, do u think would be too hard to use the m3 radiator and some custom hoses and make it work?

I'm sure you can make one work. The mounts are in the same locations, the only thing you'd have to sort out would be a remote reservior/expansion tank. I'd imagine installing a larger radiator would be a good mod for the M42/M44, especially if you can mount the expansion tank to a higher location in the engine compartment. It would make the bleeding process go much smoother

[cooljess76]

Originally Posted by budget76

Jess, got a link for the waterpump overdrive pulley? Just went on ECS and couldn't find it. Can you run the stock/regular length serpentine belt, or do you have to find a different length with it?

Also, I remember you had problems a while back with getting sent an ugly alt. Still got that kicking around? Haven't talked to dad, but mom said he thinks the alt crapped out on him in the Z3 this morning. If you're looking to get rid of it I may be interested.

Jean, if you decide to find custom hoses, find a buddy in a store that sells hoses and search around for a while. Done one or two custom rad swaps, and they're a PITA if you can't just dig in the bin/shelf. I went with a CXracing one off ebay, got 20k miles on it with zero problems besides replacing the drain plug O-ring once

No prob man, let me know if this link doesn't work:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Water_Pump_Pulley/

The stock belt works perfectly, it's only slightly smaller than the stock pulley so the tensioner compensates the slack. The pulley is listed as an e46 part, but it fits our motors just fine.

I ended up selling that alternator to a local guy. Took a little loss, but oh well. Unfortunately I sold all of my good spare alternators(I had like 4 or 5 of them). The only spare I have left is one off of an old 325i with a squeaky bearing. AFAIK, it still works, but I remember when the guy drove to my house I could hear him coming from all the way down the street, lol. Anyway, if you want it you can have it for free.

Good advice about the rad hoses. I've done that quite a few times at autozone and pepboys. Sometimes you can get lucky and find one with the diameter and bends you need. Usually you have to cut the section you need off of a longer hose, but as long as it's the right diameter and there's no kinks or unnatural bends, you'll be fine.

[Marv17]

what you think would be a better combination? The FDM with the UUC underdrive pullies or the FDM with the overdrive water pulley?

[cooljess76]

Originally Posted by Marv17

what you think would be a better combination? The FDM with the UUC underdrive pullies or the FDM with the overdrive water pulley?

Under-drive pulleys don't give you that much of a gain and they're not recommended for cars with LTW flywheels. So if you plan on upgrading to a LTW flywheel later down the road, I'd stay away from under drive pulleys. The ECStuning over drive water pump pulley is just an added bonus to having an aluminum pulley instead of the cheap plastic OEM water pump pulley. The plastic water pump pulleys are prone to cracking when overtorqued, mine did. The ECStuning pulley is only like 8% overdrive, you won't feel any loss or gains. It's just going to spin a little more than the stock pulley which in turn will help cool the engine better.

If your mindset is on doing the fan delete mod, I'd take every precaution necessary, including the ECStuning pulley, Stewart high performance water pump, lower temp t-stat, a good radiator w/no hassle warranty(Mishimoto?) electric spall fan, perhaps an aluminum radiator shroud and redline water wetter.

Edit; FWIW if you do the FDM, you want as much flow as possible. Underdrive pulleys will REDUCE the output of your water pump.

[budget76]

Thanks for the link Jess, it's a little out of my price range ATM but it's on the backburner.

I'll let you know on the alt, I know I have one sitting in the shed but I think last time he thought the alt was going (bad trigger wire) it's the older wiring setup.

FWIW I'm running the FDM, I forget which t-stat but I think one lower than stock, aftermarket temp gauge to keep an eye on things, stock metal impeller pulley, and a 12'' pusher fan that's on constantly (I installed a on/off t-stat but the wire for the probe didn't allow me to get a good seal on the upper radiator hose). That reminds me, I should pick up the stock electric fan and run this one as a puller. I run around 210 sitting in traffic and on the highway in the summertime.

[zoner]

Originally Posted by cooljess76

I'm sure you can make one work. The mounts are in the same locations, the only thing you'd have to sort out would be a remote reservior/expansion tank. I'd imagine installing a larger radiator would be a good mod for the M42/M44, especially if you can mount the expansion tank to a higher location in the engine compartment. It would make the bleeding process go much smoother

I, too, am a little curious about these radiators, as I am getting ready to redo the whole cooling system (coolant pipe, all hoses, radiator, etc.) on my M42 in the not too distant future. Mishimoto's website makes it seem as though it is a direct replacement, no expansion tank or additional parts needed. Do you know if this true, or is the 6 cyl. different than the 4 cyl. in this regard? (obviously the fans are different, but is the radiator as well?) The lifetime warranty alone makes it worth the incremental cost to me, the fact that it is also a sweet looking piece of aluminum is just gravy...

EDIT: Nevermind- I now see the tube above the top hose outlet where the expansion tank would connect. I think it would be a minor detail.

[cooljess76]

Originally Posted by zoner

I, too, am a little curious about these radiators, as I am getting ready to redo the whole cooling system (coolant pipe, all hoses, radiator, etc.) on my M42 in the not too distant future. Mishimoto's website makes it seem as though it is a direct replacement, no expansion tank or additional parts needed. Do you know if this true, or is the 6 cyl. different than the 4 cyl. in this regard? (obviously the fans are different, but is the radiator as well?) The lifetime warranty alone makes it worth the incremental cost to me, the fact that it is also a sweet looking piece of aluminum is just gravy...

EDIT: Nevermind- I now see the tube above the top hose outlet where the expansion tank would connect. I think it would be a minor detail.

It is a direct replacement for 6cyl models. For 4cyl applications, you'll definitely need an expansion tank to fill/check coolant level. There's no radiator cap on the radiator, the cap is on the expansion tank. On 6cyl models, the expansion tank is attached to the fan shroud which then attaches to the radiator.

Since our cars, when equipped with M42/M44's, use a puller fan and 6cyl models use pusher fans, you can't mount the expansion tank on the fan shroud. The shroud I'm referring to is actually for the engine driven clutch fan, not the electric fan.

But yeah, it's just a minor detail. You can easily route some plumbing to a remote expansion tank. I'd recommend somewhere higher in the engine compartment, perhaps where the battery is(good reason to relocate the battery to the cargo area) or just forward of the driver's side strut tower. Air bubbles travel upward, so the higher you mount the expansion tank, the easier it will be to bleed your cooling system

I still have an M44 puller fan laying around in the garage. Tomorrow I'll check if it fits on the M3 radiator. I think it will because the "hooks" for the 6cyl fan shroud appear to be in the same location as the hooks for the 4cyl puller fan shroud.

I sold my stock M3 radiator locally for 100 bucks, so I only spent $54 + 25 bucks s/h for my Mishimoto There's 1 seller on ebay who starts his auctions @ $0.99. I've seen them sell for as low as 80 bucks and as high as 230. This is the seller that I bought mine from:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Open-Box-1992-19...item3363333013

[eurohb]

so when can we see this damn bastard car on the road! come on grandpa <3 haha and when can i go and buy those style 19's off u ?

[3.2TI]

^x2

[BimmerBum]

Originally Posted by cooljess76

Under-drive pulleys don't give you that much of a gain and they're not recommended for cars with LTW flywheels. So if you plan on upgrading to a LTW flywheel later down the road, I'd stay away from under drive pulleys. The ECStuning over drive water pump pulley is just an added bonus to having an aluminum pulley instead of the cheap plastic OEM water pump pulley. The plastic water pump pulleys are prone to cracking when overtorqued, mine did. The ECStuning pulley is only like 8% overdrive, you won't feel any loss or gains. It's just going to spin a little more than the stock pulley which in turn will help cool the engine better.

The danger from underdrive pulleys and lightweight flywheels is only when you underdrive the crank pulley... which is why none of the major players underdrive pulley kits come with crank pulleys. Both my coupe and wagon have underdrive, power steering, waterpump, and alternator pulleys as well as a lightweight flywheel and have been fine for years.

Some of the stock pulleys are composite and over time they will crack and break which is no good... however, it does take quite a while for that to happen and the composite pulleys are lighter than any of the aftermarket pulleys. I sell stock sized aluminum pulleys for those looking for a little more reliability without a change in performance.

Anyone running a 6 cyl M5x or S5x needs to run the Stewart pump ESPECIALLY if you are going to run underdrive pulleys. The Stewart pump flows 20% more and also creates more pressure in the water jacket. The Stewart pump has been proven to lower temps around cyls' 5 and 6... where most of the 6 cyl headgasket failures happen. Every car we have that a Stewart pump will fit in has one... the stock pump is a pathetic piece in comparison.