Project 332ti begins!!!

[cooljess76]

Been waiting on a new alternator. In the meantime, I degreased and mounted the A/C compressor & bracket/tesioner, power steering pump and reservior, Power steering hose(old one was smashed and leaked), motor mount arms, secondary air pump check valve, new exhaust manifold gaskets, studs and copper nuts. I didn't polish any of these parts, just degreased them and cleaned them up really nice. It sucks though because they cover up a lot of the work I did on the timing cover.

I might have found a solution to my ASC delete. The problem i encountered is that the ASC is tied to the ABS and I want to keep ABS, but get rid of ASC. I don't want any extra parts or restrictions of the engine's airflow. Some people keep the ASC valve hooked up and tucked away next to the strut tower, but that's just not going to happen with this build. The other option is to rig up a resistor and trick the car into thinking the valve is still installed. That's not going to happen either. I want it to be as if BMW designed it, meaning I want my ABS to work without any warning lights illuminated and without any extra junk in the engine compartment. My solution... I just purchased a '95 M3 ABS controller. It came from a car that did not have ASC. So, I'll be using the '95 M3 ABS controller with my '98 M3 ABS pump and brake master cylinder/resevior. I think there's an ASC relay which I can remove and the ABS system should function properly.

Anyway, that's where we're at right now. Waiting on an alternator.

[RAiMA]

Nice project. Some really nice ti's here.

[KINGAMR]

Do you think there will be any problems with running that ABS controller?I was thinking of doing the same thing but I have a 98 M3 controller already. let me know how it works out. Other than that,looking clean so far Jess.

[cooljess76]

Originally Posted by RAiMA

Nice project. Some really nice ti's here.

Thanks! Your cars pretty sweet too!

Originally Posted by KINGAMR

Do you think there will be any problems with running that ABS controller?I was thinking of doing the same thing but I have a 98 M3 controller already. let me know how it works out. Other than that,looking clean so far Jess.

I'm really not sure if it'll work or not. The only reason I'm going to try it out is because Marv17 has an ABS light and the ABS doesn't seem to be working on his car. He basically did the same thing as me by running the '98 M3 ABS pump and brake master cyl/reservior as well as ASC delete. I think he's running the '98 M3 ABS computer as well. My goal is to delete the ASC while still maintaining a functional ABS system. If you plan on deleting your ASC, then I think the '95 M3 ABS controller is worth a shot. Not sure when I'll be up and running, but I'll let you know my findings. BTW, I got my '95 M3 ABS controller from a guy on bf.c for 20 bucks. So now I have a '95 M3 ABS controller(without ASC), a '98 M3 ABS controller(with ASC) and a '97 318ti ABS controller(with ASC). One of them has to work, lol

[KINGAMR]

I've been lucky enough to get a bunch of free parts from people that parted a bunch of m3's so the controller I have is free, no loss here so far. I've been looking at Marv17's setup & a few others online,I will check out the swap manual & let you know if I find anything on it. I guess I should start a swap thread too sometime soon.

[L84THSKY]

Forget mushy
If you stay with the 318ti slave cylinder, you will have a left leg twice the size of the right. I have the exact same setup. Drove the car for 1 week, and had to install the M3 slave. With the M3 slave it feels like it should.

Originally Posted by cooljess76

I think for now, I'm gonna leave the 318ti clutch master cylinder since I'm using the M3 slave cylinder. According to UUC, the M3 setup will make the clutch pedal feel mushy with the stage 2 flywheel/M5 clutch. We'll see how it feels with the steel braided line, 318Ti master cyl, M3 slave cyl, e34 M5 clutch & throwout bearing, 8.5lb flywheel & ZF transmission.

If it feels mushy, I'll switch back to the 318ti slave cylinder. I'm using the M3 brake master cylinder/ABS pump. Here's a few pics of the progress:

[cooljess76]

Originally Posted by L84THSKY

Forget mushy
If you stay with the 318ti slave cylinder, you will have a left leg twice the size of the right. I have the exact same setup. Drove the car for 1 week, and had to install the M3 slave. With the M3 slave it feels like it should.

Thanks Eric, that's good to know. Right now I have the M3 slave cylinder installed but I left the 318ti clutch master cylinder. Would you recommend installing the M3 clutch master cylinder as well? I think what UUC meant was if you use the M3 master and slave together, it will feel soft. I figured they were telling M3 owners that they should use a 325 slave cylinder(same as the Ti slave cylinder) so it didn't feel "soft". You know better than anyone since you're currently running the UUC flywheel and e34 M5 clutch on your car. Are you running an M3 clutch master cylinder or just the slave cylinder? Thanks again for your input, your knowledge is very appreciated!

[Marv17]

i think that is why Hugo's car has a hard clutch. When we met up at a meet, he sat in my ti and asked how my clutch was so easy/soft compared to his. i then sat in his ti and boy there was a big difference. guess it's because he is using the ti's clutch master cylinder?

[cooljess76]

yeah, but me and L84THSKY have ltw flywheels with e34 M5 clutches. According to UUC's website:

Originally Posted by UUC Motorwerks

Note: slightly lighter clutch pedal effort may be experienced in M3, MZ3, Z3 2.8.
To maintain original clutch pedal feel, use the E36 325i slave cylinder (click here for part number and diagram),
All other models retain original slave cylinder.

I'm guessing the models they have listed all have the same master and slave cylinders. There's a chance that the M3 master & slave cylinder combo might be a little too much hydraulic pressure for the lightweight flywheel/M5 clutch setup. I think either the M3 slave cylinder paired with the 318ti master cylinder or the 318ti slave cylinder(same as the 325i) paired with the M3 master cylinder, tones it down a little making the pedal feel normal. If you're running an s52 flywheel and stock clutch, the M3 slave/master combo should feel normal.

[L84THSKY]

Stock master cylinder, M3 slave.

Originally Posted by cooljess76

Thanks Eric, that's good to know. Right now I have the M3 slave cylinder installed but I left the 318ti clutch master cylinder. Would you recommend installing the M3 clutch master cylinder as well? I think what UUC meant was if you use the M3 master and slave together, it will feel soft. I figured they were telling M3 owners that they should use a 325 slave cylinder(same as the Ti slave cylinder) so it didn't feel "soft". You know better than anyone since you're currently running the UUC flywheel and e34 M5 clutch on your car. Are you running an M3 clutch master cylinder or just the slave cylinder? Thanks again for your input, your knowledge is very appreciated!

[Marv17]

hmmm... so what would i have to do in the future when i get the LTW flywheel then? which is not anytime soon since the clutch is still good and i'm not driving happy crazy all the time. would like to have an ideal goal for when it happens.

[cooljess76]

Originally Posted by Marv17

hmmm... so what would i have to do in the future when i get the LTW flywheel then? which is not anytime soon since the clutch is still good and i'm not driving happy crazy all the time. would like to have an ideal goal for when it happens.

When the time comes, install the LTW flywheel/clutch, if the pedal feels soft, replace the slave cylinder with your old 318ti one or purchase a new one. The 318ti shares the same slave cylinder as the 325i/325is.

[JeroenB3]

Just the wheels and calipers itself look amazing, you're really a detail-man

I'm more like hurry, hurry, drive, drive

[Stephen027]

I used to support flares but holy CRAP does that look good in the rear. Id rock it as is, complete with rubbing :stickoutt

[cooljess76]

Got ripped off by a bf.c member I posted a WTB thread for an alternator. I was very specific that it had to be a newer style alternator with the aluminum pulley, no rust and mounting bolts included. I needed the lower mounting bolt in particularly since I sold mine with the original alternator that came off of my s52. The reason I sold my old alternator was because it had a rusty internal fan and I refuse to install a rusty part on a beautifully polished s52. The guy that I sold my old alternator to gave me his old one to use as a core for a remanufactured alternator that I planned on purchasing initially. So the one that I bought from the bf.c member arrived and it looks worse than the one that the other guy gave me! So I'm out 75 bucks, the guy want's me to pay to ship it back to him and then he says he'll refund the 75 bucks. Basically he wants me to eat shipping. Not going to happen, it's only 75 bucks, I've already opened a paypal dispute. Meanwhile, I'm going to go ahead and purchase a remanufactured alternator. PayPal will review the dispute and refund my money. The bf.c member will get a negative iTrader rating and a strike against him on paypal. And if he doesn't pay me for return shipping, I'll just give the alternator away because it's not going on my car. I'm so tired of getting ripped off, but I'm not going to lose any sleep over this and I'm not going to be the bad guy in this deal. I made it very clear what I was looking for and he delivered the opposite. An older-style alternator with a steel pulley, missing mounting bolt, covered in grease and completely rusted.

Here's the thread, beware when buying parts from scrowley111 on bf.c:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1331547