How To Install A BMW Factory Alarm

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How To Install A BMW Factory Alarm

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The 318ti OBD-II engine... 10-19-2006 06:48 PM Last post by Filiski120 04-24-2024 06:40 PM 210 Comments, 995,287 Views

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How To Install A BMW U.S. Dealer-Installed Alarm

(or at least how I did it)
Published by MacUser
02-18-2010

How To Install A BMW U.S. Dealer-Installed Alarm

Step 1: Are You Ready?

Do you have all the parts? You'll need the control unit ("black box"), the cable with a 12-pin main connector, a 1-pin hood switch connector, the LED and its leads, and the siren. I bought some industrial-strength Velcro to secure the "black box" and used an M5 10mm bolt with locking nut (left over from the window regulator install) to install the siren. I used a few basic tools: Phillips screwdriver, a socket set, drill + 7/32" & 3/4" bits, rubber mallet, and a pin punch.

Step 2: Prep

Call me paranoid, but whenever I plan to monkey with automotive electronics, I disconnect the battery when possible.

Photo 1: I disconnect the battery.

Step 3: Installing The Control Unit

The control unit is mounted to the bottom of the electrical carrier, found behind the glove box. There are nine Phillips screws (or eight if you're missing one!) holding the glove box/lower trim in place.

Photo 2: There are two screws along the left bottom edge of the trim panel below the glove box.

Photo 3: There are two screws along the right bottom edge of the trim panel below the glove box.

Photo 4: There is one screw along the side facing the passenger door of the trim panel below the glove box.

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By MacUser on 02-18-2010, 03:49 AM

Photo 5: There are two screws, one on each side of the glovebox, near the hinge. It looks like you'd need an offset screwdriver, but it can be done without one.

Photo 6: There are two screws, one on each side of the glovebox, near the top edge.

After these nine screws are removed, you can slide the glovebox/trim panel out as one piece, but disconnect the connectors to the glovebox light and the door switch.

Photo 7: Disconnect the two connectors before yanking out the box!

Photo 8: Now you're looking at a bajillion wires ... careful!

By MacUser on 02-18-2010, 04:18 AM

Photo 9: Remove the cardboard panel that forms the floor of this compartment. It pulls out from below. I just twisted and contorted it until it came free ... it's just kinda wedged in place after the nine screws were removed.

Photo 10: The receptacle for the 12-pin connector is difficult to see. It's in the vicinity of the green circle, up and to the left of the bright yellow connector. It also sits back further than the yellow connector. It's VERY difficult to see and even harder to connect to it ... you're basically doing it blind. PITA!

Photo 11: The one-pin hood switch connector's receptacle is also a PITA to find! It's taped to one of the wire bundles to the right of the yellow connector. I had to split the casing of the control unit's harness to free up enough wire to make the connection.

Photo 12: Before attaching the control unit, you need to adjust the microphone's sensitivity. Remove the four screws that hold the box together.

By MacUser on 02-18-2010, 04:35 AM

Photo 13: Find the dipswitches on the top side of the breadboard. I've circled them in the photo ... they're quite small. This is the default setting.

Photo 14: Flip the dipswitches so that both are off (You should only need to flip the left one). This is the high sensitivity setting, which is recommended for the 318ti. After flipping the switch, screw the box back together.

Photo 15: I used a strip of Velcro to attach the control unit to the bottom of the electrical carrier.

Photo 16: You need to drill a 3/4" hole in the cardboard panel removed earlier for the microphone. Since there were no measurements in the installation manual for the 318ti, I took an estimate of the location and drilled away! It was close.

By MacUser on 02-18-2010, 04:46 AM

Photo 17: I removed some of the sound installation from the top of the cardboard panel in the vicinity of the mounted position of the control unit.

STEP 4: INSTALLING THE SIREN

Photo 18: I used this hole to mount the siren. Using a pin punch and a rubber mallet, I pushed the plastic connector out of the hole. This connector is attached to the siren's harness.

Photo 19: The siren plugs into this harness.

Photo 20: Here is the siren, plugged in and bolted in place with the 10mm M5 bolt with locking nut.

By MacUser on 02-18-2010, 04:54 AM

STEP 5: INSTALLING THE LED

Photo 21: Pull out the ashtray insert.

Photo 22: There are two Phillips screws holding this console section in place. Remove them.

Photo 23: There are three wires that must be disconnected for complete removal.

Photo 24: I inserted a semi-rigid wire guide through an opening under the panel just removed and threaded it out the side of the console. Then I wrapped it around the LED harness (the LED is disconnected at this point).

By MacUser on 02-18-2010, 05:00 AM

Photo 25: The connector in place, under where the ashtray mounts.

Photo 26: Using a 7/32" drill bit, I drilled a hole near the power outlet (the "receptacle formerly known as cigarette lighter").

Photo 27: The LED installed.

Photo 28: After the LED is plugged into its harness (and reassembling everything and hooking up battery), I tested it out ... success!

Last edited by MacUser; 02-18-2010 at 05:07 AM..

By tiFreak on 02-18-2010, 05:52 AM

you haven't even taken the plastic off your Roundel yet??

By MacUser on 02-18-2010, 06:49 AM

I had just received it earlier that day ... I was too busy with my goodies!

By bill1995 on 03-12-2010, 12:10 AM

How do you use the 3 button remote

#10

By tiFreak on 03-12-2010, 03:52 AM

top button: press it once to lock the car, and again to unlock
center button: press it while the doors are locked to arm the alarm and lock the gas door
bottom button: panic

#11

By bataanboy on 12-19-2010, 01:49 AM

I have an aftermarket alarm (codeone)and my issue is my gas door would not lock. I can lock using my key turn counter clockwise and unlock using my remote. Can you help me on this? What do I need to do or the shop who installed my alarm??

#12

By rafael875 on 12-05-2011, 05:12 AM

this ti is US or euro? i have a euro version and i think its not prewired... how to verify it?

#13

By John Firestone on 12-05-2011, 10:23 AM

It's U.S. and I'm 99 44/100% sure your car isn't prewired. What many folks in America call the "factory alarm" is not the alarm system that was installed at the factory. It is an Alpine alarm with a BMW logo and adapter harness installed in America by American BMW dealers and their customers.

The prewiring you are searching for is found in American cars to prepare them for the Alpine system. European cars don't have it because they could be ordered with the alarm installed at the factory. (It extends the ZKE.) It shouldn't be so much bother to retrofit the missing American wiring, hood switch and connectors -- assuming you can still order the parts. The last time I checked, the plastic shell for the 1-pin hood switch connector was no longer available.

Last edited by John Firestone; 12-05-2011 at 07:55 PM..

#14

By MacUser on 12-05-2011, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Firestone

IWhat many folks in America -- and this DIY -- call the "factory alarm" is not the alarm system that was installed at the factory. It is an Alpine alarm with a BMW logo and adapter harness installed in America by American BMW dealers and their customers.

As always, good point, John! I've changed the title of the tutorial to reflect its contents more accurately! Thanks!

Last edited by MacUser; 12-05-2011 at 02:24 PM..

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