 » Site Navigation | | | | » Recent Threads | | | | | | | |  |  |  | |  01-04-2007, 07:50 PM | #1 | | Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 9,356 |
Quote: Originally Posted by bucksworld  I am going to take on this job today. i have ordered the bypass valve. But for  now I want to open the clove box and check out this cable. | It may not be the valve. With the heat on both hoses should be warm. If only one hose is warm, then there is a good chance it's the valve. __________________ ...steven
BMW CCA #146825
1996 BMW 328ti • 2003 MINI Cooper S • 2016 M235i
www.bmwcca.org
|  |  | | 01-04-2007, 08:42 PM | #2 | | Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Tampa, FL Posts: 95 |
Quote: Originally Posted by 1996 328ti It may not be the valve. With the heat on both hoses should be warm.
If only one hose is warm, then there is a good chance it's the valve. | Yea.....My friend came over and went ahead puting the new heater bypass valve on. This seems to be are problem. We got plenty of sut in the radiator water now and have to continue bleeding it or burping it. I don't know when the last time this heater core had any water in it(5 years my guess). My friend says not to flush the core. Is he right? This may bring on a leake in the core by flushing it. I am just happy to have heat. I still have the glove box out. I don't think this is are problem? any more idea's? Thanks __________________ Stephen
1995 318TI
Vin# sam51751
 | | | | | 02-07-2007, 02:40 AM | #3 | | Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: MD Posts: 20 |
Do you have the part number on this bypass valve? | | | | | 03-19-2007, 07:32 AM | #4 | | Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Williamsburg, VA. Posts: 36 |
I had no heat a few days ago also. I had air in the system and now it works fine __________________  Stock Calypsorot Gas Saver | | | | | 10-31-2005, 08:35 PM | #5 | | Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Indianapolis, IN Posts: 228 |
Ah! I found this so far from realoem.com http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...99&hg=64&fg=20 I can see where the bowden cable lies behind the control panel, I suppose the question is whether the other end of that cable properly opens the flap at the heater box, found at the other end? | | | | | 10-31-2005, 09:17 PM | #6 | | Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Missouri Posts: 12 |
Correct. You have to take the glove box out of the car, its only 6 screws or so, unhook the glove box light and switch wires. Then take out the knee bolster, its only 4 10mm bolts. Then unhook the heater vent for the passenger side. Then you can see the other end of the cable and the flap it opens. | | | | | 10-31-2005, 09:57 PM | #7 | | Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Indianapolis, IN Posts: 228 |
Awesome, thanks. I will definitely try this. | | | | | 11-01-2005, 03:29 AM | #8 | | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Michigan Posts: 169 |
Hey Severian, sorry I did'nt get back to ya on your how to burp question, wife is in hospital so i been out of the house and away from my laptop. Looks like breeze30 got it covered hope it works out let us know.
vwt3 __________________ 
95ti Alpine White, K&N cone filter, Fullcoilovers by GroundControl Koni adjustable,Eibach springs.
JUST POINT AND SHOOT...http://www.munks.com/
. Also 69 VW t3 fastback 2110 motor,full air ride
.http://www.airkewld.com[/size] | | | | | 11-01-2005, 02:31 PM | #9 | | Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Indianapolis, IN Posts: 228 |
Thank you for the reply, vwt3. I hope everything turns out okay with your wife, that's more important! | | | | | 12-02-2005, 01:31 AM | #10 | | Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Indianapolis, IN Posts: 228 |
I have another update guys. I'm in the midst of attempting this repair. So far I have
* taken off the glove box and the knee bolster
* I see a flap for the FOOT vents, and that seems to be opening & closing fine. I have yet to remove the passenger face vent.
* attempted to bleed the coolant system using the small, black plastic screw next to the coolant cap
Strange...as I stood by my engine and waited for coolant (or air) to come out of that hole that the plastic screw plugged, nothing happened. I waited a good 10 minutes with the engine idling, but no coolant came out. Is this indicative of a problem? I assumed coolant would eventually rise and start pouring out. The temp dial is smack at 50%. | | | | | 12-02-2005, 04:09 AM | #11 | | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Utah Posts: 100 |
I have the same problem, but i can't the the freaking floor vent tube off so i can get to the yellow lever. its starting to drive me crazy. any suggestions on how to get that sucker off? | | | | | 12-02-2005, 01:57 AM | #12 | | Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Indianapolis, IN Posts: 228 |
Nother update, holy **** you guys were right!! I removed the floor vent tube on the passenger side and can see the yellow lever and the bowden cable. It was NOT pulling the lever far enough toward the inside of the cab to fully open the heater...it was mixing hot and cold air. Awesome!!
Now another problem, the little metal clamp came OFF of the yellow lever, so I'm stuck trying to put the clamp back on before I figure out how to make it stay. Looking at the assembly I must think to myself...this is just waiting to happen. Kinda sad, huh? This tiny metal clamp attached to a little plastic lever.
I'll update you if i succeed in attaching it again. Thanks you guys, I never could've done this without you! | | | | | 12-02-2005, 02:03 AM | #13 | | Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Hoffman Estates, IL (NW. suburb of Chicago) Posts: 49 |
Had the same problem with the dial on my 318ti. Adjusted the cable and now I got heat. | | | | | 12-02-2005, 02:10 AM | #14 | | Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Indianapolis, IN Posts: 228 |
I found the problem. A piece of yellow plastic at the end of the Bowden cable USED to clip to the heat duct near the lever to hold the cable in place. That piece of yellow plastic broke, so I assume I'll need a new cable. How in god's name will I get to the other end of this cable, I don't need to take the dash apart, will I?? Can I just take out the heat/radio panel??
Oh boy...
The cable is cable A in this picture, and the clip is part B. That clip snapped. Anyone know what I can do to fix this? Do I need the new part I wonder...
hmmm | | | | | 12-02-2005, 03:04 AM | #15 | | aka Stabby Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mead, CO Posts: 5,336 |
Quote: | Originally Posted by Severian The cable is cable A in this picture, and the clip is part B. That clip snapped. Anyone know what I can do to fix this? Do I need the new part I wonder...
hmmm | do you have the pic? Quote: | Originally Posted by Severian I'm kicking around the idea of drilling a hole, then using very stiff twine to tie the cable back into place. I don't know how I'll drill...I'll need to hand drill a hole or punch it or something. | would you be able to get a hand tap in there? __________________ 1996 318ti, California package, 267k miles
current mods: bilstein sports, bavauto springs, e30 m3 LCABs, solid metal ball joints, bavauto RSMs w/reinforcements, e30 3.73 LSD & halfshafts, supersprint cat-back exhaust, turner rear sway bar reinforcements, IE poly subframe & RTABs + camber/toe kits, powdercoated e36 32x front calipers, sport mirrors, H&R 28mmF/19mmR sway bars, x-brace, auto solutions SSK w/poly bushing upgrade, BMW CD43 head unit, DICE HD Radio w/iPod integration and "stealth" HD antenna, staggered style 68s, orange electronic TPMS, leather arm rest, JT Designs metal undertray
acquired and awaiting install: heated seat kit, cali top switch relo, lumbar support kit, park distance control kit, heated washer nozzle kit, m-coupe rear subframe, trailing arms, differential, and halfshafts, m-coupe front/rear brakes with master cylinder, under hood light kit, mud flaps, rear sun blind, auto-dimming rear view mirror, tilt steering wheel retrofit, apexcone 5000K HIDs with 55W ballasts
2002 X5 4.4 Sport Package, 53.5k miles
Current Mods: e46 m3 steering wheel | | | | | |
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