99% certain i need a new clutch -

[jccaruso]

Hi all,

I have what I believe is a dying clutch but would like someone to confirm because I have never owned a car long enough to warrant a new clutch. My 96it has 198000 miles and runs pretty well overall (with the clutch exception).

It started about a year ago with shuttering in 1st and 2nd gears but I was able to shift it so that rarely happened.

About 2 weeks ago, I now get that shuttering all the time unless i shift it extremely smoothly. I can do that w/o a problem but 1st gear it always happens. On top of that, when I’m idling and I rest my foot on the clutch or fully depress it, I feel a sickening vibrating and hear a whining noise.

Near dead clutch??? Let me know what thoughts anyone here has...

I've read several posts and they sound similar to my issue. One thing I didn’t consider was a light weight fly wheel. I think I want that cause one of the things that has always bothered me was the slowness of descending revs. A light or lighter weight fly wheel would make me happy.

I have not seen a mechanic yet but will do so soon. I will report his findings...

Thank you all.

ciao...

[dahamler]

Throwout bearing and a pressure plate would be my guess.

[jccaruso]

Does that mean a new clutch? those sound like clutch components.

[dahamler]

Yes , just make sure those components are replaced with the clutch disc .

[jccaruso]

thanks...

[1996 328ti]

My symptoms of a bad clutch on my Mini and Mazda was that the clutch was slipping.
Step on the gas and no go. Especially up a hill. High RPMs and low MPH.

I'd agree with.

Originally Posted by dahamler

Throwout bearing and a pressure plate would be my guess.

My clutch on my ti was replaced at just over 250,000 miles and the only reason it was changed was because it was dropped to change a rear main seal and throwout bearings.
I was told the clutch had some signs of hot spots, but was still OK. It just made sense to replace it while it was apart.

[cooljess76]

My friend, who is also a mechanic asked me to drive his old escort after he had just replaced the clutch. I took it for a spin around the block and it bucked like when you're teaching someone to drive a manual. I made it back to the house, popped the hood and found worn engine mounts and a cracked intake boot. Basically what was happening was when you release the clutch, load was being put on the engine. The worn engine mounts were allowing the engine to tilt, which in turn allowed the split in the intake boot to open, which in turn caused the engine to misfire, which felt exactly like a clutch problem. I'm just throwing this out there since these cars and any cars of this age are prone to worn engine mounts and cracked intake boots. Our cars are especially sensitive to A/F related misfires. Being that your car has 200k miles and you actually hear noise and feel vibration when depressing the clutch pedal, I wouldn't rule out that it probably does need a new clutch kit(pressure plate, friction disc, throwout bearing and pilot bearing) and possibly a new flywheel. However, I'd check the other stuff I mentioned first. Just rev the engine a couple of times and have someone watch the engine to see if it rocks from side to side excessively. You might even put it in gear and drive a couple feet with the hood open while someone observes the engine.

[jccaruso]

Wow! I hadn't considered engine mounts. Im out of the house now but will check when i get back. If nothing else i will definitely mention that to my mechanic. Interesting theory. Thanks.

[slow_ti]

Cheek trans and diff mounts too


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[cooljess76]

Originally Posted by slow_ti

Cheek trans and diff mounts too


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That's different. The only reason I said check the motor mounts was because if the intake boot was split, the motor tilting could cause the split to open. I'm probably wrong and he probably does need a clutch, but I figured I'd just throw this out there because I've seen it happen before.

Another way to check the intake boot is to spray brake cleaner (not carb cleaner) on it while the car is idleing. If the rpms fuctuate, your intake boot is leaking.

[slow_ti]

Haha i know jess. I meant, might as well while your under there


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[thesk8nmidget]

sounds like most likely your clutch plate it self is good if its still grabbing and causing your car to studder and shake.


im gonna go with jesse on this one, motor mounts would cause your car to do just that. a way to check motor mounts is put your e brake on and try to start going in 1st then reverse and have someone watch your motor, if it lifts up or sort of rotates its probably a motor mount.

a good way to check your clutch plate it self would be also put the e brake on and put the car in 4th or 5th and try ans let the clutch out and give it some gas just like you would normally when driving and if the car dies like it should you clutch is good, if it lets you let the clutch out then your discs on your clutch are done.

[Dave_PA]

I had a problem w/slippage and bucked for a whole new clutch setup. Turns out all that was bad was my T/O bearing and the fork. Per the mechanic, the clutch/pp setup that was on my car was still in good shape and was still about 1/2 way of it's life left. If you are interested please lmk. I'll sell it super cheap.
Dave

[zoner]

I think the "whining noise", as well as the slippage, are the giveaways on this one- almost certainly a T/O bearing, especially if it changes in pitch/intensity when you depress/release the clutch. With 198K mi. on the car, even if there is a little life left in the clutch itself, it's probably time to just replace the whole thing.

To me, clutches are just one of those things that you replace as an entire assembly- if one component is bad, the rest is probably not too far behind and it's really not fun having to drive a manual car back to civilization w/o a clutch.

[jccaruso]

Hey All,

Thanks for all the great info and suggestions. I've finally made an appointment to get my car looked as i can not conclude what is wrong. I really feel that the clutch (or some component) is toast but I can tell. Its doesnt slip at all so the clutch plates must be fine. The engine doesnt rock, well no more that i would expect it to. I guess that doesnt really mean that the mounts are good though. I suppose it could be the throw-out bearing but i dont understand what that really does.

anyway, I'll post my results here for future reference once the work is done.

Thanks again.