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Old 07-24-2006, 04:38 AM   #16
myblueTI
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I have always ran premium, which is 91 in my car since the day i got it.
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Old 07-24-2006, 06:20 AM   #17
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My car runs like crap on regular, and it seems like I get worse mileage. I put super in it. 92-94 octane only. On wednesdays they have a 5c off sale at most stations around here, so I fill up for Plus prices for the most part.
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Old 07-24-2006, 01:26 PM   #18
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i'll have to agree with you jperfect my car also runs like crap when i put in 87, and since i bought the car ive always used 93 until the prices went up. i remember when 93 used to cost me 1.15 while stationed in louisiana, then little by little it climbed until now that its at about 3.10/3.20 so i get the cheapo stuff at 2.95/2.99 and every so often ill get 93 just to clean her out.
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Old 07-24-2006, 08:40 PM   #19
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had a quick question is a higher octain better or worse and what is better for maximum performance
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Old 07-25-2006, 01:14 AM   #20
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I just had my oil changed by a BMW dealer; they charged me just a little less than $90.00. He charged me $5.95 for 6 quarts and my 95ti only takes 5 quarts. The balance was for labor and filter. Now you might see why a lot of readers do their own maintenance if they can on their own cars
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Old 07-25-2006, 04:23 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grm
I just had my oil changed by a BMW dealer; they charged me just a little less than $90.00. He charged me $5.95 for 6 quarts and my 95ti only takes 5 quarts. The balance was for labor and filter. Now you might see why a lot of readers do their own maintenance if they can on their own cars

The oil change on this car is probally the easiest thing for anyone to do. Shouldn't take you more than 15 minutes if that.
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Old 07-25-2006, 04:59 AM   #22
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wow....i wasnt expecting it to be that expensive....i would have tought it would be like 50 dollars at most. I will porbably take it to the dealer this weekend for this time and then do it myself.
I have another question:
Lets say i take it to a shell station taking my own cans of oil and tell then to change it and then reset the service light myself. Would anyone recommend that?
just for future reference....
thanks a lot!
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Old 07-25-2006, 05:04 AM   #23
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my oil change was only like $45 bucks (full synthetic) from bavauto.com...i have my own reset tool. Its probably ok to do that, but make sure you dont put it off and make your you write down your mileage after you change the oil if you do put it off. How do you plan to reset it?
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Old 07-25-2006, 07:55 AM   #24
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i say just learn how to change the oil yourself. it will save you a little money and help you get to know your car better. the more you know about your car will help with identifying promblems and later on solving them yourself. all u do is remove the drain plug and let the oil drain in a pan. then change the oil filter and o rings, and put the drain plug back in. fill it up with oil and your done. 10 to 20 mintues max.
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Old 07-25-2006, 07:57 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996Bmw318TI
Randy, re read the post. I didnt ask where do you buy your 93 octane. I asked where do they sell 93 octane. I was asking if you know a place, not where you buy it.
lol ok...
but yeah...I don't know where to get 93 around here.
Haven't seen any around my area...
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Old 07-25-2006, 06:43 PM   #26
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had a quick question is a higher octaing gasoline better or worse for a stock 318ti
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Old 07-25-2006, 09:18 PM   #27
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Ideal Octane rating is a function of Engine tuning, Compression ratio and outside air status.

Oregon winter with 50%+ humidity and < 65 degrees = 87 OCtane.
Oregon Summer with average humidity and 60 to 75 degree air= 89 octane.
Oregon summer with < 40% RH and > 80 Degrees = 92 Octane.

If your running fuel with more ethanol you can drop a level in octane because standard octane ratings don't account for the alchohol content correctly.

For instance, Sunoco GT+ 104 octane (With ethanol)will dyno higher than 110 Octane Leaded Sunoco if air temp is over 75 degrees. and as a bunus will drop cylinder head temps about 30 degrees. But their 104 octane unleaded is less power than either fuel across the temperature range.

Highest HP is JUST below the knock threshold.

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Old 07-25-2006, 09:33 PM   #28
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Higher octane fuel doesn't have any more power, it just allows the engine to be run at higher compression or advanced timing without the air/fuel mixture pre-igniting (detonating).

That is, if you use higher octane than the car requires you gain absolutely nothing. Individual cars and driving conditions can change the required octane for your specific vehicle. That is, a vehicle operating under a heavy load, or has aged and has carbon deposits built up in the combustion chambers might need higher octane fuel. Also if you have advanced your timing you might need higher octane fuel (this might include any computer chip modifications).

The book calls for 89 AKI (mid grade in your area, this might be 87 at high elevations, or 90/91 in hot climates). I have been able to run 87 with no decrease in performance or economy, in my location and for my driving style. Your book might specify 93 RON, but that is only valid outside the US as it is a different way to measure octane and is equivalent to 89 AKI (in USA).
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Old 07-25-2006, 09:40 PM   #29
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I have never once reset my oil light in 5 years.
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Old 08-15-2006, 06:09 AM   #30
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The only benefit of using a higher grade than 87 in a 4-cyl is the reduced carbon deposits. I've never seen too big a build up though and all I do is get a little ventil-sauber or lucas oil brand injector cleaner in the tank with every oil change.
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