 » Site Navigation | | | | » Recent Threads | | | My 318ti build 05-21-2024 04:48 PM 05-21-2024 04:48 PM 0 Comments, 843 Views | |  |  |  | |  07-17-2009, 07:25 AM | | | NOBODY F's with the Jesus Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ventura California Posts: 7,824 |  ***DIY*** Relocating The Battery To The Cargo Area
As most of you already know, e36 coupes, sedans and convertibles have a trunk mounted battery while the 318ti houses the battery on the passenger side of the engine compartment. '96 and newer 318ti's are OBDII which means that they are equipped with an M44 engine that uses a secondary air pump as a...
Last edited by cooljess76; 07-18-2009 at 07:21 PM. |  |  | | |
Quote: Originally Posted by wolferj  I avoided Odyssey for reliablility issues, their long term durablilty record (over a year) is a problem. Also, their CCA ratings are self produced and not verified... They actually say that they don't rate the CCA's on their batteries. | I have a dozen or so in service for over 2 years and no issues, way better than Optima's we were eating those for breakfast. The 920 is a big unit in their lineup, its physically larger but small enough to wedge into tight places, as I posted earlier I'm starting a 425 HP very high compression engine in a mustang with a rear battery mount and no issues... One thing you need to do with the Optima is never discharge it to zero or let it be stored connected and get discharged. they seem to have issues with deep cycling repeatedly. I use battery tenders on all of ours. Dave | | | | |
I have the following items from my donor vehicle:
- Cable with distribution box already attached on the end.
- Bracket that holds distribution box
I’ve routed the cable through the cabin as instructed in the DIY article. I’m still using the original battery setup since I still do not have a small battery to place in the right rear corner. I want to make sure I have a secure battery after finishing the project. So for the time being, the cable is routed and the distribution box is sitting under the original battery location.
Questions:
1) I assume I remove the (-) cable from its original position in the front and reuse it in its new location in the rear.
2) Ok, so once I install the distribution box (as stated before, mine is already attached to cable) to the fender bracket, what do I do with the original red (+) cable that was originally used to connect to the battery? | | Last edited by Shellback; 02-15-2010 at 04:03 PM.. | | |
The harness for your swapped engine will have a different connector (a flat connector with a hole) to connect to the distribution box, not a battery post connection.
(You are doing an engine swap, right?) | | | | |
Wolf,
Thank you for the assistance. I wanted to do the battery relocation project first, then the S52 in about a month. I hope I didn’t screw anything up by jumping the gun and doing the battery first.
As of now, the M44 is still my daily driver. Again, I hope this project can be done before swapping engines.
With the current M44 setup, I noticed the (+) cable to the battery seems to go to the main wiring harness that runs along the cowling area. Can I connect that cable now to my new relocated distribution box? I would remove the battery connector terminal first and then install a flat connector with a hole. Then connect that (+) to the distribution box.
Can this be done? | | | | |
Exactly... You can replace the battery post connector with a flat connector (just like the one that is on the long cable) and connect it to the distribution box.
A sweat/solder connection is best, but for the short term ( a couple of months ), you could just crimp on a new connector.
I did that exact procedure you are doing now, as I did it in advance of the swap. | | | | |
Wolf,
Thank you Sir. I did the install today. For my ground, I used one of the 13mm nuts that hold’s the right side bumper shock to the bumper.
I put everything back to stock since I haven't purchased a small battery yet. I just wanted to test if I could accomplish this task.
I also found out my red (+) battery cable was too short. It is pretty snug up to the power distribution box and I made sure it is sealed properly in through the firewall. This is weird, since the cable came out of my totaled M3/4/5. Anyway, once I’m ready to make this a permanent install I’m going to splice in a 2 gauge cable to make the (+) cable longer. | | | | |
Quote: Originally Posted by Shellback I also found out my red (+) battery cable was too short. It is pretty snug up to the power distribution box and I made sure it is sealed properly in through the firewall. This is weird, since the cable came out of my totaled M3/4/5. Anyway, once I’m ready to make this a permanent install I’m going to splice in a 2 gauge cable to make the (+) cable longer. | I am really perplexed that all of us who did this are coming up short with the battery cable... Marv & I both used cables from a coupe, you used a cable from a sedan... I followed the exact same path as the donor car, too... Just weird. Oh well... Glad your test install worked out great! | | | | |
If I don't have the plastic anchors that hold the terminal on could I use some drywall anchors? | | | | |
Quote: Originally Posted by PitchblakToxic7 If I don't have the plastic anchors that hold the terminal on could I use some drywall anchors? | Honestly I'm not really sure if they'd hold. IIRC, the holes in the inner fender are square and if I'm not mistaken, most drywall anchor nuts are round and cone shaped. The OEM ones are cheap, but I'm not sure which part number is for the ones that go in the inner fender. It's item number 9 in this diagram: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...82&hg=41&fg=65 You'll need to measure the holes and figure out which part number fits. Make sure you order at least two, you might want to order a few extras just in case you drop one and lose it or something. | | | | |
Quote: Originally Posted by cooljess76 Honestly I'm not really sure if they'd hold. IIRC, the holes in the inner fender are square and if I'm not mistaken, most drywall anchor nuts are round and cone shaped. The OEM ones are cheap, but I'm not sure which part number is for the ones that go in the inner fender. It's item number 9 in this diagram: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...82&hg=41&fg=65 You'll need to measure the holes and figure out which part number fits. Make sure you order at least two, you might want to order a few extras just in case you drop one and lose it or something. | Thanks, I wasn't able to find that. But the anchors I was able to find seem pretty robust, and those may be only $.60 there but the cheapest I've been able to find them are for a dollar a piece at pelican parts and shipping is $3, so $5 for just two plastic nuts, might as well try mine out and see if it works, worse thing is it breaks loose and flaps around a few inches in there, not like it can short with the plastic cover on it. My next questions is where do the two extra connections go from the old positive block? | | | | |
Quote: Originally Posted by PitchblakToxic7 Thanks, I wasn't able to find that. But the anchors I was able to find seem pretty robust, and those may be only $.60 there but the cheapest I've been able to find them are for a dollar a piece at pelican parts and shipping is $3, so $5 for just two plastic nuts, might as well try mine out and see if it works, worse thing is it breaks loose and flaps around a few inches in there, not like it can short with the plastic cover on it.
My next questions is where do the two extra connections go from the old positive block? | Check your local auto parts store. Who knows, they might have them. | | | | |
Quote: Originally Posted by cooljess76 Check your local auto parts store. Who knows, they might have them. | I did and found some that fit perfectly, but I still need to know where those connections go... I'm looking at more junctions boxes online, they all have 5 bolts to bolt the 5 positive wires too, Engine ---- + ---- Accs? ---- + - + -- Battery -- + - + -- Mine only has 4 but I still have 5 wires Engine ---- + ---- Accs? -------- + -- Battery -- + - + -- Can I double up the two smaller red ones on the right middle post? | | Last edited by PitchblakToxic7; 10-06-2010 at 04:57 AM.. | | |
Been a while since I've seen an M42/M44 wiring harness, maybe someone else can chime in. As for "doubling up" the wires on one of the posts, well as long as they're all positive I wouldn't imagine it being a problem. There shouldn't be any negative/grounds going to the positive terminal. | | Last edited by cooljess76; 10-06-2010 at 04:52 AM.. | | |
Quote: Originally Posted by cooljess76 Been a while since I've seen an M42/M44 wiring harness, maybe someone else can chime in. As for "doubling up" the wires on one of the posts, well as long as they're all positive I wouldn't imagine it being a problem. There shouldn't be any negative/grounds going to the positive terminal. | I could try to get a picture of it but right now there's three red wires to the positive block, but they're bolted on to the block so I was just going to unbolt them and attach them to my newly installed terminal. I wouldn't either. | | | By ti3 on 11-19-2010, 08:10 PM |
Once you've read and completed this DIY on the wiring relocation, you can check out the Battery fitment guide (which is still in progress), that will give a good idea of what batteries will fit without sacrificing cargo area, and reducing weight at the same time. I am shamelessly trying to get more people to look at my guide to get more feedback and pictures from people who have done it. I will be completing my relocation sometime soon, and I am trying to decide on a battery that will reduce weight, and fit in the utility area, without major modification and extra weight in mounting materials. Nice guide BTW. | | | | |
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