Head gasket go boom ..... - Page 3

blowin 4 · 12-21-2012, 04:27 AM

hummm what about a miss fire i did install new plugs they where gaped larger than the original ones how can u tell cylinder one as detonation. theres no room if u ask me i dont believe in o rings i might need apr bolts i dont thing the factory 11 mm but then the m 3 can handle 500 hp on stock motor .

blowin 4 · 12-23-2012, 08:06 PM

More problems all my valve seats leak all 16 in the same spots uper in lower 2 uneven spots across from each other possible it was never reground my be detonating no sign's of burnt valves or any markings on piston or head . pulling oil pan to inspect crank play or rod play .im 100% sure it's had bad seals from day one i always had a strange cold start and hot flooding spent days in night replacing sensors and trouble shooting also i could never get the car to idle under 10 rpm it always sound like i had wild cam's well that explain;s it all possible pull motor in send it to a real shop. or reinstall my old motor that never broke down. ill post pic's spent over 12 hrs reassembling
the head lucky i got away with hand lapping on the valves even tho im going to hear a bunch of **** from ppl about how lapping valves is a no no lol. oh well ...

blowin 4 · 12-25-2012, 08:03 AM

finally done hope i dont run into any more head problems or this motors history ...

blowin 4 · 12-26-2012, 01:42 AM

so i came up when this great idea i tried to search the web seems like no one has tried it or at least there's no info about it . i been having trouble with oil leaking on my compressor side i have clocked the turbo ran 3/4 lines . tryin to avoid a scavenge pump one less proplem to fail later on any way heres a few pic's dont see why it wouldnt work ....

pdxmotorhead · 12-28-2012, 10:02 PM

On a race motor I use -12 line for the turbo drain, turbos foam oil badly. you need settling time and normally the oil has to drain into free air NOT below the oil level of the crank case. the foam becomes a plug and backs up into the turbo... I tried almost exactly what you have pictured and it cavitated the oil pump... the foam basically puts air into the oil pump...

Dave

blowin 4 · 12-28-2012, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdxmotorhead

On a race motor I use -12 line for the turbo drain, turbos foam oil badly. you need settling time and normally the oil has to drain into free air NOT below the oil level of the crank case. the foam becomes a plug and backs up into the turbo... I tried almost exactly what you have pictured and it cavitated the oil pump... the foam basically puts air into the oil pump...

Dave

So in other words im going to starve the motor of oil i guess im going to order a scavenge pump .

pdxmotorhead · 12-29-2012, 01:41 AM

That's what happened to me... That and the oil backing up trashing the turbo seals..
If your thinking scavenger pump, I'd consider a full dry system. Heck its only money!

The oil tank can replace the window washer tank, then put a washer tank in somewhere else if needed.

Love making trouble...

Dave

blowin 4 · 12-29-2012, 02:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdxmotorhead

That's what happened to me... That and the oil backing up trashing the turbo seals..
If your thinking scavenger pump, I'd consider a full dry system. Heck its only money!

The oil tank can replace the window washer tank, then put a washer tank in somewhere else if needed.

Love making trouble...

Dave

i was search online a few hours i came up with oil will only foam up in the turbo if the drain is backed up so once the car starts up it will be pulling oil from the return there form no having any pressure to foam im hopping ..i did see a video or 2 of ppl runing ther car with the return line of and it seems to foam at hi rpms this sucks i have to pull my pan of what a waste of time. i rather just do a scavenge pump seems simple .

pdxmotorhead · 12-29-2012, 06:59 AM

If you take the drain hose from the turbo and put it in a bucket its like a foam fire extinguisher. Not so much at normal rpm but at high rpm is amazing...

A scavenger pump is great because you can return the oil high in the block and let it run down the side to de-foam. The minor down side is they require regular service and belt inspections.

Cheers.

Dave

blowin 4 · 12-29-2012, 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdxmotorhead

On a race motor I use -12 line for the turbo drain, turbos foam oil badly. you need settling time and normally the oil has to drain into free air NOT below the oil level of the crank case. the foam becomes a plug and backs up into the turbo... I tried almost exactly what you have pictured and it cavitated the oil pump... the foam basically puts air into the oil pump...

Dave

thanks Dave i owe u big time you saved me from killing my motor .. So do you build race car motors ?
pulling my oil pan and using my other motor pan and drilling a new whole on uper drivers side to have a higher oil return ... even better i got the m 44 block i can return the oil in the block where the pluged off the crank sensor sweet

**xxxJohnBoyxxx** · 12-30-2012, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdxmotorhead

On a race motor I use -12 line for the turbo drain, turbos foam oil badly. you need settling time and normally the oil has to drain into free air NOT below the oil level of the crank case. the foam becomes a plug and backs up into the turbo... I tried almost exactly what you have pictured and it cavitated the oil pump... the foam basically puts air into the oil pump...

Dave

Solid advice. I think you saved Danny a motor as he stated above.

**xxxJohnBoyxxx** · 12-30-2012, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blowin 4

thanks Dave i owe u big time you saved me from killing my motor .. So do you build race car motors ?
pulling my oil pan and using my other motor pan and drilling a new whole on uper drivers side to have a higher oil return ... even better i got the m 44 block i can return the oil in the block where the pluged off the crank sensor sweet

Try a high oil return on the pan. If you drop that oil in the crank sensor hole on the M44 block you will only create a big problem with windage or oil being thrown at high speed as it flys off the crank.

blowin 4 · 01-04-2013, 07:23 AM

[ IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m11/tazy_01/Picture776_zps94717a35.jpg[/IMG ]

pdxmotorhead · 01-05-2013, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blowin 4

thanks Dave i owe u big time you saved me from killing my motor .. So do you build race car motors ?
pulling my oil pan and using my other motor pan and drilling a new whole on uper drivers side to have a higher oil return ... even better i got the m 44 block i can return the oil in the block where the pluged off the crank sensor sweet

I dont build them , I know who to have build them...

I support various folks who like to race, I am basically a volunteer crew chief on a variety of cars. I trade wrench time for occasional seat time.. Your basic track whore.... LOL

I'm also 50 and been racing since I was a junior in high school. so what I lack in smart I got beat into me with repetition...

The last couple turbo motors I worked on were drilled through the block and put a AN12 fitting in the hole. You need a sonic unit to make sure you get below the water jacket... or drill through the block skirt.. The current project I'm working on is dry sumped.. so I just teed into one of the scavenger lines, well see how that goes whenever the owner gets the coin to finish the build.. (~600HP Merkur XR4ti.. )

Cheers.
Dave

**xxxJohnBoyxxx** · 01-08-2013, 04:42 AM

With those last pictures. The scavenger pump looks like the good one withe brass gears. Is that a RRFPR you have in the pictures?

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