Those with 18" rims..

[steve318ti]

I got you!

[FuMa]

i'm kinda surprised that almost everyobdy drives their 18" wheels without any problem. I had 18x8 wheels with 225/40/18 tyres and when I was driving about 100mph and there was a little bump in the road, it was rubbing in the rear. As a solution I threw out the spare wheel and the problem was fixed. With those rimms I still had stock shocks but lowered with Eibach sportline springs, lowering -50mm in the front and -30 in the back.

And I think the most important thing to look at, when you're looking for wheels, is the offset (et??)

[CG_ACE]

Hey guys got my rims today.
I have question.

My rims are 18x8.5, ofsett is 45mm, center bore is 74.1 mm
tire size is 225/40/18

Does this sound like a reasonable set up with proper clearances?

I will post pictures when I get them on.

THANKS IN ADVANCE....

[Mallard]

you may need a spacer on the front

mabey a 5 mm

mount them and see if thay scrub on the damper leg

[CG_ACE]

MALLARD,

What does the JJ mean at the end of the 8.5. I Was told that these would fit without mods.

HERE ARE THE SPECS: THE ONES IN DESCRIPTION ARE CORRECT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/18-BM...ayphotohosting

ALSO some pictures of the rims.

DOYOU MEAN THE PLASTIC RINGS THAT CAME WITH THE RIMS?

Also I donot have the owners manual and was wondering aobut jacking points and if there is any precautions when using this type of jack(never have seen one of this type before).

Thanks for all your help Im a dad trying to help his son out by teaching him the basics.

ACE

[Mallard]

j means the rim has a special type of lip to the rim

jj means a double version of that

taken from a 4x4 website

The term as I used as offset in relation to the J & JJ shouldn’t have been used. I am aware of the differences as you have pointed out as a JJ is described as a double mating face, which symbolises the shape of the tyre mounting surface.

Where as the J is a singular mating surface in which translated means that the tyre is not as securely "fixed to the rim".

i cant find that much info on it tbh

The plastic rings are called "centering rings" or "Hubcentric rings"
they are normally only used because the bore hole on the alloy is larger that the hub spigot on the brake disc/drum

try mounting the plastic ring on the disc spigot before mounting the wheel.
If its a good snug fit, then you may need to use these too.

The OFFSET of these wheels seems a little too high, but if you have clearance then you should be ok to run

Jacking points are seen under the car , denoted by 4 round plastic pads.

The BMW scissor jack isnt my most favorite peice of equipment, and i suggest you get a regular jack instead

[CG_ACE]

Mallard,
I just got the first front wheel on. looks good. However how much space do I need between the metal plate that holds the spring and the tire. with original tires there was about 1.25 inches more or less now about .5 inche all the way around top and back of rim donot touch.

[thesk8nmidget]

once they are mounted try just turning all the way one way an also the other.

make sure it clears everything

[Mallard]

½ an inch clearence is fine.

but check again if the whcan clear the brake caliper

if its all good in those 2 areas, then your ready to roll my man

[Marv17]

well i have 18x8 wheels, believe its 225/40/18. no rubbing. well not yet anyhow, knock on wood.

[CG_ACE]

Okay,

Front wheels: Clear without rubbing but there is maybe a .25in. (BACK OF TIRE TURNING LEFT) of space when turned all the way.

Calipers: front fit inside the rim and dont touch anywhere I can reach in and move my hand around the brake rotor no problem.

Rear wheels: When I go over a rather large bump the rear bounces and touches briefly. Passenger rear wheel clears with no problem. However, the driver side rear has a solid wheel well with a piece that bubbles out into the wheel well this part rubs slightly when making a sharp right hand turn.

Will carrying passengers be an issue, and can this be fixed with better shocks or higher/stiffer springs. I looked at the rear shocks and they look impossible to get to you have to tear up the rear hatch to get to them but I wouldnt know where to begin.

Question on alignments can they be done anywhere, and does anything special need to be done .I need one and the dealer wants 110.00 bucks.

lastly marv17 my wheels are 18x8.5 Ithink the .5 might be why this is such a tight fit. I though that the offset being 45 was a good thing.

any thoughts, suggestions, concerns, I should be aware of.
I WANT TO THANK ALL YOU GUYS FOR THE HELP AND ESPECIALY MALLARD FOR KEEPING ME SANE.

I am a little concerned with the rear and woul like to hear from anybody who modified or replaced components to fix these issues.

[Mallard]

Can you get a couple of digi pics up, so we can see the clearance issue

it´d be an easy fix i think

[CG_ACE]

I have never done this before and I hope it doesnt slow down your computers. I took these this morning after reading your reply pictures kind of crappy I hope they give you a good idea.

left rear rubbing point in fender well. notice how the fender sticks out at that point.

front brake caliper plenty of room

full view of rear tire

clearance between fr. wheel well and tire tight about a .25+ Wheel turned all the way to the left

new tire clearance front about .25 to .5

view of car with tires

[cali-ti]

so that top wear point you posted of the rear tire, is that at the top of the wheel well arch or where?

[CG_ACE]

Its on the driver side rear. Directly behind the wheel well is a plastic tray in the hatch(trunk) if you pull it out you will see some type of vent and drain holes plugged up. It is furthe back in the wheel well on passenger side, because of the spare tire. It creates a bump in the wheel well. If you look at the full view of tire you wil see a curve at the back of the wheel well Looks grey because of the flash, the rubbing is just behind the wheel at the end of that curve. it sits below the rear black molding, behind the tire and just out of sight.