» Site Navigation | | » Recent Threads | | | | | | | 02-14-2008, 09:21 PM | | Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Oxford, Ohio Posts: 868 | Oil Filter Housing Leak fix DIY I hope this helps anyone with this problem. Attachment... | | | | Looks different that piece was on my filter housing can you snap a pic of the actual housing so I can see cause I believe you are supposed to remove that there is a rubber circle o-ring that leaks as well. Mine stayed with the housing and installed together Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk | | | Right that's what I'm saying, all of the pictures and guides I was reading were geared towards the m44, where that bush / valve is plastic and not attached. On the m42 pictures I've been looking at after the fact, it's just the o ring that get replaced. You have an M42? Mines 1995 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk | | | Yea got a 1995 as well m42 but yea I believe that thing pulled away from the housing see if you can pull it out of the block instead of installing. Because that should just be a hole then on housing it will push into the block with a o-ring to seal it into the hole Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk | | | I should have search BEFORE spending all Saturday haha Looking on Real OEM there were two options for the M42, those with the aluminum housing cover and those with the plastic. The aluminum housing (which I have) does not have a bushing, just the O-ring. The plastic housing has a bushing, so the part I ordered is technically correct for an M42, just not for the M42 that I have. #WrenchLife! | | | Thanks dave45056 will give a try to my 318TI | | | Anyone have the link to the OP’s DIY? Is there a kit with all gaskets and o rings or do I have to get them individually? 1998 ti Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro | | | Clicking on the link in the 1st post will download a pdf, that you then have to open. There's one gasket and two o rings. You can get the parts from any of the online retailers, I see that bavauto.com sells the bushing with o rings already installed and the gasket, total of $12 and change. Last time I did this, I was shocked to find the two o rings and the gasket at my local napa, took them one day to get it and cheap. | | | My apologies. I was trying to view in the Tapatalk app. I switched to web and the link works. I’m not very good at this internet thing. Thanks for the help!! | | | This is a great write-up, thank you! Any advice on prying the alternator out? It won't budge at all. Can PB Blaster help, or should it not be used in that area as it might get somewhere it shouldn't be? It sounds like getting the alternator back on is even harder...not looking forward to that... | | | Quote: Originally Posted by aldogg7 This is a great write-up, thank you! Any advice on prying the alternator out? It won't budge at all. Can PB Blaster help, or should it not be used in that area as it might get somewhere it shouldn't be? It sounds like getting the alternator back on is even harder...not looking forward to that... | Try a pry bar to remove it. To install it, use a large drift to line up the holes. You can also use a rubber mallet to persuade it. Don't use a steel headed hammer, as the case, being a casting, is somewhat brittle. The reason it's so tight, is that the ground is made through it's case. | | | It was a bitch for me getting the alternator out and in. I used a long screwdriver as a pry bar. I too used a rubber mallet. | | | Tip to easy alternator install. It will just drop in without a fight. 1. Look at the two rear alternator mounting tabs. 2. You will see two hexagonal steel inserts. They are threaded. 3. The alternator bolts thread into these inserts. 4. I press them out a little to widen the opening. (Do not press them out) 5. I use a 5 inch c-lamp and a socket to press them out a little. | | | Thank you for the advice! Will definitely be getting a pry bar. For installation, how is a c-clamp and socket used to press outwards? Is this basically a spreader clamp? | | By Locus7 on 12-11-2018, 01:06 AM | Quote: Originally Posted by aldogg7 Thank you for the advice! Will definitely be getting a pry bar. For installation, how is a c-clamp and socket used to press outwards? Is this basically a spreader clamp? | Excuse my poor drawing. Basically, you want the socket to be big enough so that the insert can move into the socket's body. You clamp the outside of the socket and the end of the insert, so that you can push it out just enough to get clearance for install. | Last edited by Locus7; 12-11-2018 at 01:09 AM.. | | I know its old, but thanks ..... | | | | Currently Active Users Viewing This Tutorial: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | | Posting Rules | You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is On | | | |