» Site Navigation | | » Recent Threads | | | | | | 07-29-2007, 04:20 AM | #1 | Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Edwardsville, IL Posts: 5 | Oil filter housing leak fix how to (long) I have been putting off fixing an engine oil leak coming from what appeared to be the oil filter housing on our '96 M44. Saw a number of write ups on various boards concerning o'ring and gasket failures, and stopped at the dealer for the o'rings and gasket in anticipation of finding the time to do it. I did it last weekend, absolutely no problems at all. First I disconnected the battery. Then I removed the fresh air tube and air cleaner box and associated covers, and disconnected and set aside the MAF boot with MAF still attached to give me access to the alternator and then the alternator/power steering pump mounting bracket. Removing the two wires connected to the back of the alternator and then the two thru bolts holding it to its mounting bracket gave me access to the four bolts holding the mounting bracket. I did not remove the power steering pump, but I did remove the attaching nuts for the power steering pump reservoir and set the reservoir aside (I did not remove the hoses). Then I removed the six bolts holding the oil filter housing to the front cover and the oil pressure warning light sender wires. I pulled the housing out of the block, it lost very little oil. Of course it was oily there anyway so I didn't care. The gasket came off mostly in one piece, and the round adapter that has the two o'rings on it came out with the housing. Those o'rings were very brittle and flat where they seal against the housing and front cover. Definitely the source of the leak. Here's where I could have done things a little differently. I should have removed the oil filter cover and oil filter before I loosened up the housing. Why? The inside of the housing where it bolts to the front cover needed to be cleaned, and although I intended to change the filter anyway, I did not want to get any cleaner or dirt onto the filter. The point is it's easier to remove the cap on the car than on the bench. Before reassembly I cleaned up the remainder of the gasket from the block and housing, replaced the two o'rings on the round adapter, and cleaned up the area between the housing and the front cover using brake cleaner. Although I knew I would be changing the oil, I was careful not to get too much brake cleaner in the oil passages in the front cover. There's a couple of passages in the housing that I made sure were not obstructed. Reassembly was the reverse of disassembly - I oiled the o'rings, put the adapter into the housing, then pushed the adapter/housing assembly into the front cover. The 6 bolts went back in, then the alternator/power steering pump mounting bracket, the alternator, and then the belt. I don't know how to make installation of the alternator any easier - it's a very tight fit, it took some patience and a plastic dead blow hammer to gently ease it into place. Reinstalling the power steering pump reservoir and air box and related parts was no problem. It fired right up after reconnecting the battery. Plus, all that work fixed the leak! The hardest part of the whole job was relieving the pressure on the tensioner enough to remove the alternator belt. The Torx 50 hole in the tensioner needs to be a tad deeper in my opinion - I got it to retract, even managed to put a pin in the tensioner to keep it retracted for ease of reassembly. But a deeper hole would help prevent scratched knuckles and possibly a damaged Torx bolt. It took me about 1 1/2 hours total, including the extra time to remove the oil filter on the bench vice using a couple of pieces of wood to protect the housing. Wrenches/sockets included 10mm (air box, power steering pump reservoir, oil filter housing, small wire on the rear of the alternator), 13 mm (alternator mount bolts, large wire on the rear of the alternator, battery cable), 15 or 16 mm (I can't remember) for the alternator thru-bolts, Torx 50 for the belt tensioner, a nail to pin the tensioner, a screwdriver for the MAF boot, and the oil filter cap wrench. Hope this helps someone who needs to do this. __________________ Ernie Peters 1996 318 ti Arctic Silver 5spd, 2000 Z3 2.3 Steel Grey 5 spd, 2004 X3 2.5 Black auto, 1992 Volvo 240 Red auto, 1988 Mustang LX 5.0 Scarlet Red Hatchback 5 spd, 1956 Chevy 150 454/TH400 Black hot rod | | | 07-29-2007, 06:00 PM | #2 | Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Memphis, Tn Posts: 1,299 | sounds and looks like a great write up. You could post this in the Knowledge base section under the How To: __________________ custom dual exhaust,M3 front and rear bumper, 10.4 inch roof mount drop screen, Viper alarm system, DSII's rims, M3 Vader Seats, M3 Mirrors, Carbon Fiber CAI, Smoked Corners, Side Markers, Leatherz armrests, black grilles 225k miles and still the Ti goes on | | | 07-30-2007, 01:58 AM | #3 | TRETEN IRGENDEINES ESELS Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 3,687 | I need to do this to my ti as well, seems like it wasn't as bad as i originally thought. Only saying that beacuse of the price a shop gave me to do it, if i recall inbetween $600-$800 range. Maybee on a nice cool wekend i'll get the chance.. __________________ 98 Avus Blue 318 ti Active clear outs all around,stealth turning signals,blue led interior lights, 35% tinted windows,K&N air filter, 12" Kenwood Sub, MTX Thunder Amp,Alpine cd changer, Leatherz Armrest,ACS Pedals/Handbrake/FloorMats & Vitesse Tuning Carbon Fiber B-Pillars/CF Spark Plug Cover, New 16" MSW Typer 14 Rims on Goodyear Triple Treds www.myspace.com/avusblueti | | | 09-13-2011, 06:56 PM | #4 | Junior Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Chicagoland Posts: 4 | Quote: Originally Posted by erniep Hope this helps someone who needs to do this. | Thanks for the post, it was helpful. Thought the leak was the oil pan and/or main seal so this was put off for a long time and was going to sell it. Made the fix this weekend. The tensioner had a 16mm (5/8") hex instead of a 50 Torx. Will keep the ti for another 182K! | | | 09-14-2011, 02:11 AM | #6 | Junior Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Chicagoland Posts: 4 | Seen it, but I have a M44. Directions were quite clear even w/o pics. | | | 09-20-2011, 08:12 PM | #7 | Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: atlanta Posts: 3 | oil pressure I did this job and I wonder how long does your oil light stay on? I got really nervous after about 20 seconds and turn the car off due to the oil light on. No oil at this point had reached the housing (the filter was still dry). Should I have ran this for a minute or two? I remember changing oil and the light staying on but I can't remember how long. | | | 09-20-2011, 08:28 PM | #8 | Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Bethlehem, PA Posts: 1,106 | i am pretty sure that the oil light turns off right away. i know when i did an oil change one time, the oil filter had broken into 2 pieces (small top of it was stuck in the base of the holder) i had no idea, and when i put the new filter in, it would not get all the way in. seemed okay though, tightened the lid and the oil light came on right away. i was worried so i looked. removed the filter part and replaced and when the car start, no oil light anymore. pretty sure it checks for it instantly. you must have a flow problem or pressure problem. maybe someone can shed some light for you. this is for the M44 motor, not sure about the older m42 __________________ Check out our new website! https://soltechsolutionsllc.com/ Green Your Decor with the Aspect! Shop for the Grow Light Used by Interior Designers, Growers & People Like You! | | | 09-20-2011, 11:13 PM | #9 | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Georgia Posts: 595 | Quote: Originally Posted by justinatl70 I did this job and I wonder how long does your oil light stay on? I got really nervous after about 20 seconds and turn the car off due to the oil light on. No oil at this point had reached the housing (the filter was still dry). Should I have ran this for a minute or two? I remember changing oil and the light staying on but I can't remember how long. | I would disable the fuel pump and the ignition coil and crank the engine until the oil pressure registers or the oil light turns off. If you can remove the spark plugs, it will be easier on the starter and battery. __________________ 1996 Ti 280k miles and still going.... 1993 964 - holding on to this one 2001 Burban, 240k miles 2018 Suburban Z71 | | | | Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | | Posting Rules | You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is Off | | | |